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Slotting spring plates for wider u-bolts

I used that u-bolt kit that I also got from rock auto for the d30 swap I’m currently doing. They worked fine, I will trim the excess length after I retorque them. For spring plates, I was able to get the ones from the Dana 30 that I got (came from a 74 CJ5). Yes the shock pins are behind the axle instead of in front, I swapped them side to side and elongated the necessary hole to make them work and keep the shocks in front of the axle. I believe the 25/27 has a smaller diameter tube and there might not be enough room to slot them before you run into the shock pins. If you don’t get a more positive answer, I’ll take a look tomorrow when I’ll be doing some more work on the Jeep.

Tim
 
Slots will be ok but look for 1/8" thick washers at the hardware store. Also consider larger diameter u-bolts.
 
I took some measurements and I have a cheap solution.

Dana 44 spring plates and u bolts seem compatible except for the larger inside u-bolt. In that case I only have to slot two holes. I was able to reshape a dana 25 larger inside u-bolt to fit the dana 30 because it was very close. The picture shows the two holes to slot. There should be just enough space.

Ghetto fab at its finest.
 

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Just my opinion of course. I have not tried a slotted plate. But it just reasons to my thinking that non slotted plates would be less likely to have some sort of problem. I would probably try to avoid them if not an emergency repair. Again JMO.
 
I would never run slotted spring plates. It's a part of the steering and suspension. Making your own is really simple and can be done with a hand drill and a small welder.
 
I got some 3/8 inch by 5 inch strap steel stock for my YJ conversion plates, Took careful measurements of the axle diameters and drew a blue print for the plates. Made myself a layout plate and scribe, sitting on an old piece of granite counter top with some Prussian blue on the plates I laid them out. drilled and fixed. :bananatool:.
 
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Most of the high clearance spring plate kits for CJs are slotted to accept d25, 27, or 30 front axles and tapered or flanged rear 44's.
The slot on the plates will be specific to u-bolt diameter. Do not run a smaller diameter u-bolt than the slot. Each leg of the u-bolt should be tight to the minimum or maximum of the slot which prevents the u-bolt from being able to move forward or back. The group buy plates I drew were based on the existing product of the company that formed them which was slotted. Mine are tighter slots than there standard.

You don't want to make a slot a random length and put a u- bolt in where it can slide around within the slot.

So yes it can be a slot but the process of modifying a plate is more difficult than making one from scratch because the holes overlap.
 
Thanks.

Good discussion on this topic. Turns out I might be able to get the originals that were with the axle.

This seems like a neat fabrication project but I'm still in the mock up phase.

I might also get the original driveshaft from the '74 CJ.

I'll probably use my plates just to mount the the axle so I can start examining the steering setup using the dana 30 this weekend and check caster and steering then upgrade.

I'm having fun so that's what counts.
 
Another option would be to move the upper shock mounts behind the axle like on the intermediates, then you could use the spring plates as they are designed. I have a Dana 30 swapped in and I slotted the plates just as described above, but I am planning to move the shocks behind the axle. This will also give more clearance for the tie rod.
 
I'm mocking everything up and see where I'm at with the steering and may do that as well. I'm afraid to get too committed until I have everything rudimentarily installed/tacked in and see where I'm at. The plan is 33s with dana 30 front and spring under. All I do is climb around in the desert near my house so high speed is not important.
 
OR a few bucks for plates that actually work????
I find it a bit puzzling why a slotted spring plate is a thing. I make my own because YJ springs and larger U bolts. I see that the fabrication people are making a one size fits all approach of cost savings in the fab process.
Like I said, I made my own, but here are stock ones for cheap

There are other suppliers too.
 
I find it a bit puzzling why a slotted spring plate is a thing. I make my own because YJ springs and larger U bolts. I see that the fabrication people are making a one size fits all approach of cost savings in the fab process.
Like I said, I made my own, but here are stock ones for cheap

There are other suppliers too.
I believe they op was about taking a 70 year old piece of fatigued steel and removing material to fit a larger u-bolt. New slotted plates that are 3/8" thick are a great idea and can help out dramatically in a changing build.
 
I find it a bit puzzling why a slotted spring plate is a thing. I make my own because YJ springs and larger U bolts. I see that the fabrication people are making a one size fits all approach of cost savings in the fab process.
I agree. I would rather not slot it but I'm impatient to get the axle on and start sorting out the steering. The one in the link won't work on the d30 but I added a link to the correct one at the same website. The problem with the new one is, you will have to flip and slot them anyways to work on an early or move the upper shock mount. I guess you could fill and drill but why buy one if you need to mod it.

I figure I have free ones ready to use and I can slot two holes quickly and bolt up my d30 this weekend.

"I have time to do it twice and too lazy to do it right" :)
 
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Another option would be to move the upper shock mounts behind the axle like on the intermediates, then you could use the spring plates as they are designed. I have a Dana 30 swapped in and I slotted the plates just as described above, but I am planning to move the shocks behind the axle. This will also give more clearance for the tie rod.
They also tend not to get beat up as bad behind the axle.
 
I don't have a mill but I added a milling attachment to my garage sale lathe. Worked out decent. The spring plates and ubolts are from an m38 so the metallurgy is probably better than omix.
 

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