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1969 DJ5 w/ Old CJ5 Conversion - Revival

69DJ5

New Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2026
HI All,

I posted in the introduction thread, and after receiving a lot of nice responses, I've decided to create a "revival post" instead of a build post, because my intent is to get it back on the road safely, and reliably.

A few weeks ago, my FIL gave my wife his 1969 DJ5 that he converted to a CJ5 in the early 70s, using several old Jeeps and the powertrain from a IH Scout. It started its life as RHD DJ5 delivering mail in remote parts of Wyoming. He had, I believe, 4 or 5 of them at the time, and used the best parts to make one.



Here's a list of how the Jeep is configured:

Dauntless V6
T90C 3spd trans
Twin stick t-case, D18 (unconfirmed, but it might be a D20 since it came from a Scout)
Warn overdrive
Dana 27 front axle with 4.88
Rear Dana 44 with 4:88 and Spicer axles

It looks like a decent little rig on the surface, but the old saying, "Beauty is skin deep, but ugliness goes straight to the bone", is proving to be the case. To truly understand how it got to this point, you need to understand my FIL. He owned his own garage for more than 40-years. The man is a brilliant mechanic and machinist. The work he did for his customers was always top-notch, and at a good price. Somehow, that never transitioned to his own vehicles. To this day, he has the "it's fine" attitude and it shows. His car, his yard equipment, his tractors, all look like hell and have some really janky fab work. Well, the Jeep is no different. He built this Jeep for hill climbing competition on the 70's and offroad vehicle recoveries in the 80's. She's lived a tough life, and I'm finding out, just how tough.

First job was to get it to my house. They live a few houses down from us, so that was easy. For years, the thing always had a tip-in stumble, and if you weren't careful, would stall. Had some close calls turning left across traffic. The Dauntless had a 1-barrel manifold with a Rochester 2Jet, using an adapter that my FIL had fab'd up 50-plus years ago. Power was OK, but the carb was severely worn and was leaking fuel out of the throttle shaft. He gave me a 2-barrel manifold that he "never got around to installing".

The 2Jet and 1-barrell manifold setup


The 2-barrel manifold in the condition I received it.


Overnight in rust remover, sandblasted and epoxy painted.


Next, it was time for the valve covers to get some tlc. Degrease, rust bath, paint stripper, a light scuff, another degrease, and then a few coats of Alpine Green. That color is amazing and I think the Jeep would look great if it were painted that color.


The new carb is a 2GC (the internet said it is compatible with the Dauntless). The bolts line up with the manifold, so there's that, but it's bigger than the previous one, and I needed to build my own spacer because the linkage wouldn't clear the manifold. Built custom linkage to work with existing throttle pedal. 3D printed an adapter so the original air cleaner could be installed.


The replacement manifold didn't have the ability to mount the coil and ballast resistor, so I built a bracket to mount it the cylinder head.


Replaced the water pump


Replaced the radiator with a larger aluminum unit that has the proper lower port on the passenger side. There were 3 hoses spliced together from the water pump, under the crankshaft pulley and to the radiator. This also made it nearly impossible to find an upper radiator hose that would fit. The thermostat housing exited to the passenger side, and even the Gates Vulco Flex hose would collapse the internal spring and cause a kink. I had to install a new housing that had the port position centered, and towards the radiator. This was accomplished using a Dorman 902-2020.


With the different port configuration on the bottom of the new radiator, the mechanical fan wouldn't clear, and had to switch to an electric fan setup.


EDIT: Typos
 
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While running it to adjust the carb, and verifying that the cooling system was working, I noticed that the alternator lamp was glowing brightly in the gauge…yep, alternator not charging. I was not a bit surprised, because it’s the original and the regulator looks like it’s been sitting at the bottom of a lake.


I'm 6' 2" and I could barely squeeze into this thing, and driving it? Uh, no. I solved that issue by fabricating my own seat bracket which lowering the seating position by 1.25" and adding adjustable seat rails. Now, I can sit a little less miserably than before, and my wife at 5' 2" can move the seat up.



I decided to drive it over to my FIL's house to show him my progress, and it went fine, mostly. It was 100°F outside and the electric fan was working great at keeping the temps in the middle of the range. After showing it to him, I decided to take it down the road a mile or so, turn around and continue to work on it. This is where the "mostly" part came in. The T90C doesn't have a 1st gear synchro, and apparently, it doesn't have 2nd or 3rd synchro's now, either. It shifted OK to 2nd, but had a bit of a grind, and 3rd gear was non-existent. It hit a "hard stop", so to speak. Got it home, parked it in the garage and pulled the shift tower to make sure I didn't have a bent fork and that the shifter worked well. No bent forks, whew.


Looking into the case, I could see no oil. I planned to change the gear oil anyway, so I drained the trans, or, rather, tried to. There was nothing in it, and now I know why I it was grinding and I couldn't get 3rd gear.


The taper on the synchro ring is smoked and I'm sure it's because I drove it with no oil in it. I drained the t-case, and it had less than half a quart in it. The rubber on the rear crossmember mount has completely perished, and I had to lift the t-case with the jack to get to a couple of the pan bolts.


I pulled the t-case pan, cleaned and painted, and reinstalled with a new gasket. I suspected that the t-case input shaft seal and/or the rear output shaft seal for the trans would be leaking. I filled the trans in hopes that it would fix the lack of 3rd gear (hint: it didn't). So, I pulled the shifter tower back off and I called it a day. After leaving it overnight, the oil level in the trans had dropped by nearly 1/2"! It was exactly where I expected it to be, in the t-case.

The removal begins. Both drive shafts are out, and shocker! Two of the u-joints are bad! The only thing left is to fight the pin holding the OD and two 4WD levers.

That’s a great patch…facepalm. Looks like I’ll be repairing that, too. Thanks, Dad.


Old cars are pain.
 
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Just re-reading my first post and realized that I mentioned the alternator, and left it at that. I did convert it to a 1-wire to eliminate the external regulator.

I’ve been helping my son with his ‘79 square body GMC, and took a break on the Jeep.

Today, we took the trans and t-case out. I wasn’t sure if it was easier to take the bell housing out with everything else as an assembly, or if I should leave it. I decided to leave it, and that seems like the wrong way to do it. I searched a lot about how to get the levers off, and what a pain. I took the set bolt and the grease fitting out. I tried to pound it out with a hammer and a punch, without success. That sucker was stuck! So, I took a 5/16” grade 8 bolt and cut it down a bit on the lathe. I cut new 1/4-28 threads, and used the grease fitting hole and a bolt/nut combo as a puller. A 40-yr old Craftsman socket sacrificed itself to get the pivot shaft out. Godspeed Craftsman 15mm







I’ve got a broken sprinkler pipe that needs to be repaired before I can continue on the Jeep. I hope there will be time tomorrow to pressure wash this mess.
 
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Interesting project.

Yes, that's a Dana 18.

AFAIK the Dauntless never came with a 1V setup, only 2V. The Buick passenger car Fireball 225 and 198 V6s in the early 60s did though. We have a page of casting numbers to look at that may tell you something more about your engine. Look in "Technical Index."
 
Interesting project.

Yes, that's a Dana 18.

AFAIK the Dauntless never came with a 1V setup, only 2V. The Buick passenger car Fireball 225 and 198 V6s in the early 60s did though. We have a page of casting numbers to look at that may tell you something more about your engine. Look in "Technical Index."
Ooo…that is interesting. Time to go digging. Who doesn’t like a good mystery?
 
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