Oil Pan skid

[colojeepguy]

I assume it mounts using the oil pan mount holes - for some reason I do not like that - mostly because if one has to take it on and off a bunch, I worry that it could cause a leak at the gasket? Also, its kind of a small thing, but the oil pan flange has a rib running along it which makes mounting something on top of it a bit tricky

You could use studs like Rich said...a nut against the pan and another nut to hold your skidplate. That would space it off just enough that the rib and flange on the pan wouldn't be a problem.

 

[duffer]

I assume it mounts using the oil pan mount holes - for some reason I do not like that - mostly because if one has to take it on and off a bunch, I worry that it could cause a leak at the gasket? Also, its kind of a small thing, but the oil pan flange has a rib running along it which makes mounting something on top of it a bit tricky

I used the TeraFlex version on my TJ. It bolts to a couple of bosses on the side of the block and the bellhousing bolts.

https://www.extremeterrain.com/teraflex-hd-oil-pan-skid-tj-4667100.html

 

[FinoCJ]

You could use studs like Rich said...a nut against the pan and another nut to hold your skidplate. That would space it off just enough that the rib and flange on the pan wouldn't be a problem.

So I spent some time thinking about that the other day after Rich's post.....do you use two different nuts on the stud: the first to hold the pan, then the skid on top of that with a second nut. Or do you use a single nut squeezing the skid between the nut and pan. My biggest concern with the double nut is the extra leverage put on the stud from the skid mount - maybe its insignificant? - but those studs are pretty small and then the base skid support is isolated to a small footprint (size of the underlying nut) with 1/2" of leverage on top of the nut? Maybe that is still better than welding on the pan?

 

[ITLKSEZ]

It’s one of those instances where anything is better than nothing, unless the piece itself causes a problem that wouldn’t have existed without the piece being there at all. You need to find the balance that lies somewhere on the higher end of the scale of being present but detrimental, and effective but harmless.

If a rock that otherwise would’ve caused just a dent is now tearing a weld seam or spot weld, that’s a problem, and not one I am personally willing to risk.

These are just my opinions based on my experiences, not the law by any means. Just giving my $.02. I won’t take offense one iota if none is taken.

 

[Rich M.]

Looking at it now, I don't think I used studs. I made a piece to span 2 holes in the front of the pan sitting in the flange. Just a piece of bar stock welded to it and down to the skid in a T fashion. Haven't looked under there lately so it's been a few beers...

 

[FinoCJ]

If a rock that otherwise would’ve caused just a dent is now tearing a weld seam or spot weld,

or does the skid protect from a puncture that would otherwise have happened....that is the question.....all we have is our anecdotal experiences blended with intuition....I don't give much weight to anecdotal experiences, and I recognize my intuition is not very good....I appreciate the discussion....

 

[FinoCJ]

Trying the separate, stand off, bolt on skid....this is basically what it is...3/16 all around:

Still cleaning up, trimming and rounding out the corners, and it's only tacked up - still need to burn it all in (hopefully without too much distortion). Probably need a bit more clearance for the driveshaft, but seems like it's going to work.

I used Rich's idea to mount the rear on the front of the bell, but did the front a bit different. Used the lowest front facing holes at the bottom of the timing cover - used slightly longer studs in place of the bolts so I could tighten the cover down with a first set of nuts, then put the skid on top of those nuts and a second set of nuts.

Be better if the skid had a larger face to face surface to bolt together on, but things are a bit limited in the area, and I liked this better than something similar on the underside.

Haven't decided if I should add any gussets at the bends....

 

[47v6]

Trying the separate, stand off, bolt on skid....this is basically what it is...3/16 all around:

Still cleaning up, trimming and rounding out the corners, and it's only tacked up - still need to burn it all in (hopefully without too much distortion). Probably need a bit more clearance for the driveshaft, but seems like it's going to work.

I used Rich's idea to mount the rear on the front of the bell, but did the front a bit different. Used the lowest front facing holes at the bottom of the timing cover - used slightly longer studs in place of the bolts so I could tighten the cover down with a first set of nuts, then put the skid on top of those nuts and a second set of nuts.

Be better if the skid had a larger face to face surface to bolt together on, but things are a bit limited in the area, and I liked this better than something similar on the underside.

Haven't decided if I should add any gussets at the bends....

Hey, that looks great. Yes gussets, because why not? Also make a relief for teh drain plug so when you drain the oil it's not all over your skid plate and making a mess. Got skid plates on my dirt bikes that I bought and they weren't as thoughtful.

 

[Fireball]

Trying the separate, stand off, bolt on skid....this is basically what it is...3/16 all around:

Still cleaning up, trimming and rounding out the corners, and it's only tacked up - still need to burn it all in (hopefully without too much distortion). Probably need a bit more clearance for the driveshaft, but seems like it's going to work.

I used Rich's idea to mount the rear on the front of the bell, but did the front a bit different. Used the lowest front facing holes at the bottom of the timing cover - used slightly longer studs in place of the bolts so I could tighten the cover down with a first set of nuts, then put the skid on top of those nuts and a second set of nuts.

Be better if the skid had a larger face to face surface to bolt together on, but things are a bit limited in the area, and I liked this better than something similar on the underside.

Haven't decided if I should add any gussets at the bends....

This is looking good!

If it were me, I don't like the front bolts potentially holding up the weight of the Jeep in shear. I would add a shelf off the back the rests against the pan rail as a more direct path to the block for for stress to flow. Something like this in yellow:

Another option is to run a brace on the side to the pan rail. If you are worried about smashing the rib between the bolt holes, weld some washers on the top side of the brace at the bolt holes to space the brace down between the bolts:

As for gussets to support the bends, At the very least I would do a 1" tail lip along the entire side (and drill some drain holes so water can get out):

Of course, it's all just my opinion and it isn't worth a red nickle.

 

[47v6]

This is looking good!

If it were me, I don't like the front bolts potentially holding up the weight of the Jeep in shear. I would add a shelf off the back the rests against the pan rail as a more direct path to the block for for stress to flow. Something like this in yellow:

Another option is to run a brace on the side to the pan rail. If you are worried about smashing the rib between the bolt holes, weld some washers on the top side of the brace at the bolt holes to space the brace down between the bolts:

As for gussets to support the bends, At the very least I would do a 1" tail lip along the entire side (and drill some drain holes so water can get out):

Of course, it's all just my opinion and it isn't worth a red nickle.

If it were me, I would just weld a 3/16 plate to the bottom of the pan with a turned up lip on the front like my old f134

 

[FinoCJ]

I don't like the front bolts potentially holding up the weight of the Jeep in shear.

Specifically the front bolts? FWIW, all 4 are the same vertical shear under upward loading, but the front ones are spaced away just a bit due to the double nut (more leverage on the stud). The automotive studs pic'd above are high grade, but they are still only 5/16" and slightly leveraged in vertical shear. My first attempt at a front bracket was probably closer to what Rich describes - used the front two oil pan bolts holes to make a bracket and extend a vertical piece of plate down to the large angle section. I decided I didn't like that for a few reasons: 1) the horizontal shearing on the extended lever of the studs (although with enough gusseting, the force would transfer to the rear mounts that should support it), 2) I wasn't able to get automotive studs that would work for those holes, so would have been working with lower grade all thread, and 3) the limited width of that footprint meant tapering the front of the skid (like Rich did). I still have the bracket I made for that from yesterday before I changed the plan today....Maybe I could integrate it, but it will be hard to access. If I test fit it tomorrow, maybe I can drill a couple access and drain holes for the nuts that would allow me to at least get a tack weld.....maybe? Kind of wondering if I should have stayed with the original plan to use the bottom of the block pan holes as it supports upward force better, and the rear mounts would have supported against horizontal force.....I can still cut off the current front bracket and work with the underside bracket.

If you are worried about smashing the rib between the bolt holes, weld some washers on the top side of the brace at the bolt holes to space the brace down between the bolts:

Its not so much that I am worried about the pan rib - but rather, I don't want direct force transmitted through the pan flange and into the gasket....I envision a blowout of the cork gasket that could cause more than just an annoying leak

 

[FinoCJ]

1st round of upgrades....added the 1" side plate that also works as a gusset at the main bend. Of course, I can't use it as a gusset at the back end as it would block access to the bell mount bolts (just thinking some small head 12pt bolt might have solved that more easily )....so that meant adding separate gussets for the rear bends - might as well bridge both sections.

I am not going to add sides up along the front angle - from my POV, that is just weight for not enough gain - but probably try to add some small corner gussets at the front bend - clearance is going to be tight. I haven't added the passenger side plate as I am trying to determine if driveshaft clearance is going work as is, or if I need to trim it a bit? The concern is the ujoint possibly making contact with the corner and the primary bend.... Wondering how much lateral movement the ujoint might experience?

Lastly....if upward support is needed, its probably going to have to be done with side supports up to the underside of the block at the pan bolt holes.....get to that last if at all...

 

[FinoCJ]

A little more progress....finished up the sides and upper gussets. I trimmed a notch into the passenger side to hopefully ensure clearance with the front driveshaft ujoint....

Need to do a bit of cleanup grinding on the inside, drill the access for the oil pan plug, and probably drill a couple of more holes for drainage.....Then its decision time: either paint and bolt on with the 4 bolt mount, or try to add some vertical support pieces on each side....

 

[Renegade ll]

Wow you did a great job on the skid plate. Looks like it will do the job.

 

[Fireball]

Then its decision time: either paint and bolt on with the 4 bolt mount, or try to add some vertical support pieces on each side....

It's probably fine as is.

 

[FinoCJ]

It's probably fine as is.

If the bolts break, then it'll act like one mounted directly to the pan...best of both worlds

 

[FinoCJ]

I needed to chase the oil leak for a bit first, but now that is all good, so the oil pan skid painted and installed:

 

[FinoCJ]

Well...the overkill nature of this forum has me at least looking at adding the vertical supports.....Maybe something like this on the driver side?

There is a lot more room and the pan side is straight, so some choice on the driver side with where it can go - the support could go back one step between the next two pan bolts.

On the passenger side, there is less room and pan is not as straight as it works around the starter and the driveshaft etc....This is pretty much the only spot I think I can reasonably get it to fit without lots of frustration.....its a bit far back (and the asymmetry from the other side really bothers me, but....):

 

[Fireball]

Well...the overkill nature of this forum has me at least looking at adding the vertical supports.....Maybe something like this on the driver side?

There is a lot more room and the pan side is straight, so some choice on the driver side with where it can go - the support could go back one step between the next two pan bolts.

On the passenger side, there is less room and pan is not as straight as it works around the starter and the driveshaft etc....This is pretty much the only spot I think I can reasonably get it to fit without lots of frustration.....its a bit far back (and the asymmetry from the other side really bothers me, but....):

You already know I like the idea.

 

[FinoCJ]

Its done.....

final fitting, driver side:

passenger side:

Paint is drying....be a couple days before i am back in the shop...then bolt it on and start getting things prepped for Colorado in just over a week.