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1970 CJ5 T-18 Transmission stuck in 2nd

Preston.E

New Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2026
My T-18 Transmission is stuck in 2nd gear. This Jeep has not been driven (until this last week and only in 2nd gear) since 2004.
It has a T-98 top plate, but T-18 is what is printed on the side, which I think I understand to be common.
Any suggestions on how to get this unstuck? I have tried Kroil and forcing it with a screw driver. I can't seem to get the top cover off, I think because it is not in neutral.
The overdrive and transfer case seem to be functional.
This is my first restoration project, I like to consider myself mechanically inclined, but inexperienced.
Thanks so much!
 
Have you searched the site for similar issues. I KNOW this has been covered on previous occasion.
So far I haven't found anything that doesn't indicate that removing the top cover is as simple as removing the 6 bolts and lifting. There are all kinds of resources for once I have the top cover off.
 
The Google AI says this - might help:

An issue like this will not be peculiar to Jeeps - discussion applying to any T-18 should be helpful.
I read through the same Google AI response. This was why I tried to force it with a screw driver. In fact I ground down the end of a pry bar to fit neatly in the shifter and still could not get it to budge.
The shifter stick seems fit well in place, it is not wobbly.
The top cover will not come off, it lifts about half an inch and then binds. I don't think pulling harder is the right answer...
 
Did it get rained on? :whistle:
When I drained the oil it seemed to be much more water than oil. I'm not sure how this happened. It has spent it's whole life, while not being used, with the top on it. Since it was parked in 2004 it has been in Wyoming (with very little rain and humidity). Since 2007 it has been stored indoors.
I drained the "oil" and refilled with diesel, jacked up the back end and put the frame down on blocks so the wheels were hanging. I ran it for a minute or two and let it soak for a little over 24 hours. I drained the rusty sludge out and then sprayed it down as best I could with Kroil from the side plate and through the shifter cane hole and let that be for about 24 hours. Then I tried prying again and the 1st/2nd rail still will not budge.
I'm real close to filling it with evapo-rust, but I don't know if that is a good idea.
Google Gemini is now suggesting drilling out the expansion plug and then driving the rail with a punch...
 
If it was filled with more water than oil, it’s rusted solid. Fill it with ATF and walk away for a week or a year. Pull off all the top cover bolts and hit it with a dead blow hammer until it loosens up, pry the top off and see how bad it is…

Of just get another working t-18 transmission and install it.

You can’t make it worse.
 
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Shift rails poppet balls most likely rusted in place although there could be an issue with second gear synchronizer assembly. Pull the shifter stick off and physically look inside. When you remove the cap, spring, and stick, be careful not to drop the locating pin inside the transmission.
Instead of using so-called ai get a manual with diagrams of the T-18. Trying to drive the shifter rail out with the top installed is just going to make a tough situation virtually impossible.
 
The AI garbage is often at best half correct in such a way to make your issue much worse. Sorting through the nonsense is a job in itself.

As stated, find the manual in paper, or download one and print it.
 
Doesn't matter at this point when or how the water got in there, but it did, and has sat with the water in the bottom half of the gear box for who knows how many years.

A few parts and the case may be all that is worth salvaging.

Time for a new Timex.
 
Doesn't matter at this point when or how the water got in there, but it did, and has sat with the water in the bottom half of the gear box for who knows how many years.

A few parts and the case may be all that is worth salvaging.

Time for a new Timex.
Until the top is removed and trans is inspected there is no way of knowing one way or another. At this point it’s just speculation.
 
I would give the top cover some good wacks with dead blow. Try hitting the top cover side to side and front the back. If it was sitting with water in it the shift fork is properly stuck on the gear and preventing it from lifting. You could also do as other has suggested and fill it with fresh ATF and let it sit for a while.
 
Thanks for all of your feedback. I'll give the ATF a try and go from there. If that doesn't work, then a new one it is I guess.
 
I know it's just speculation, but based on how much water got inside my transmission (sounds like a lot less than yours) and the amount of rust it created, I'm fearing the worst for you. I really hope you can get the top cover off and have a look inside.
 
I had some water in mine when I got it from the junk yard. There is a reverse idler gear at the bottom and I recall that had the most rust. I flushed mine with old gas and coated the gears with oil. I have a t14 that was rusted at the top cover. That was a little harder to deal with because the shifting rods were stuck.
 
Good news! Have you started cleaning up the shift rails yet? I flushed my case with diesel fuel, then ran 3 very short cycles of Walmart GL5 through it until the oil drained clean. Then I filled it with the overpriced, but necessary, GL4 from NAPA. I'll probably change it again after the summer. Good luck!
 
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