Purchased a '69 in pieces

[53A1]

I started a thread a while back about this project. It's a true basket case project but it has a lot going for it and the price was right so I'm all in. I traded for a dirt bike last year and I'm slowly rounding up parts to put this thing back together with some mods. I'm rounding up parts from the salvage yards and private parties and so far have found a ford t18, dana 30 from a 82 cj, flanged 44 and a 225 v6. Figure I'd start a build thread.

I have a massive Miller 300 ABP TIG welder I got for free years ago and I'm just ok when welding on a bench. I'm going to try doing some frame work but I really need a quality MIG welder. I'm going to give it a try using the Miller but I'm keeping my eye out long term for a better MIG. I also have a cheapo Harbor Freight MIG with flux core but I only use those for body panel stitching.

Here are some related postings:

Thread 'Purchased '69 V6 In Pieces'

Sep 28, 2025

I purchased an engine a while back and the owner decided to part with the whole project today. It was literally in pieces but he put things together enough to haul it home. We did a straight trade for a dirt bike and he through in some extras which is always nice.

It was purchased in the california desert and supposedly came from the Arizona desert. I believe it looking at the tub. Seems really nice for sitting outdoors.

I'm going to put my t18 v6 drivetrain in it. It's going to be a long process but at least I have a starting point. The transfer case is the only major part that is...

• 53A1
• Replies: 40
• Forum: Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech

• 

Thread 'Salvage yard dana 30 questions'

May 29, 2026

Long term project, I'm piecing together a 67 cj with a t18, flanged 44 and v6 and large hole d18 transfer case. I have everything except the dana 30 to replace the 27 which i found today at the junk yard. He wants $350 and it has the disk brakes included. He's basically pulling it off an 82 cj5 Laredo complete.

The problem is the rear flanged 44 is 3.73 and the 30 is 3.31 gear ratios. On a budget I'm thinking I just regear the front.

Questions

How much does this typically cost?

Are there any other surprises if I buy this axle that I'm not aware of?

Any other items worth picking...

• 53A1
• Replies: 21
• Forum: Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech

Thread 'Help To Evaluate A Used 225 Buick V6 - Possible Boat Engine'

Aug 15, 2025

Reaching out to the group again.

I recently bought this engine. It was from a '69 project that was not finished and the seller has a whole jeep in pieces. I started down the rabbit hole now I have the timing cover and pan off. The timing cover was corroded beyond hope. I had an extra so I built it up and it's ready to install.

The engine looks like rockers were replaced and looking at the piston skirts and lower cylinder, it looks like it's not even broken in. The hone line angles don't look correct.

The thing that is bothering me is the corroded the water jackets. It's terrible. It...

• 53A1
• Replies: 43
• Forum: Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech

• 

Thread 'Water In Transmission And Corroded Gears'

Oct 4, 2025

I went to buy a large hole transfer case and flanged 44 axle. The seller through in the t14 for free because it had water in it. The transfer case looks much better but a couple gears on the large straight cut have a little pitting. I think the water entered the top cover during recent rains.

It's obvious the tranny is messed up bad but I'm thinking of reusing the transfer case gears for my rebuild.

How bad do they have to be before needing replacement?

The axle is good.

Thanks

• 53A1
• Replies: 15
• Forum: Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech

• 

Today I lifted the body off and examined the frame. Found a major crack repair. Would you guys run this? It looks like the repair held up for a long time. Also started to reassemble the steering to see if it will work as is. I would like to keep the steering box where it's at and build from there. The conversion to a single tie rod is terrible. I don't recognize this type of aftermarket tie rod but it's scraping the spring. Would you ditch this tie rod?

Thanks

 

[sterlclan]

looks like the tie rod would benefit from a flip the dana 30 will have a two hole knuckle and you will need a different set up anyway.

 

[Ol Fogie]

The gear swap to a 3,73 ratio should be fairly easy. I would think if you do a search a used set of gears would be avail some where near by. The 3,73 is a common ratio. New R&P sets can likely be bought, ( try Denneys Driveline) just be sure to get Dana Spicer gears and not some of the other after market brand. The little cost difference for a Dana Spicer set is well worth it. A good quality Dana gear set will save you lots of problems when doing your gear pattern set up. Not certain but I think you may not even need to change the carrier for the gear change from 3.11 to 3.73. A little research will confirm.

 

[jpflat2a]

Most likely the Dana 30 is 3:31 (or 3:07) for the 82 year.

 

[Ol Fogie]

Most likely the Dana 30 is 3:31 (or 3:07) for the 82 year.

I was wondering about that. I had not heard of a 3.11 before, Do you know if the carrier split is 3,73 compatible?

 

[53A1]

Most likely the Dana 30 is 3:31 (or 3:07) for the 82 year.

The dana 30 in the salvage yard is 3.31

 

[53A1]

What do you guys think of the frame repair? I'd prefer to leave it alone.

 

[jpflat2a]

I'd check for cracks around it, otherwise run as is.

 

[jpflat2a]

Do you know if the carrier split is 3,73 compatible?

No, I don't believe it is.

 

[timgr]

Crack here?



That's where I would expect it to crack.

 

[53A1]

?

Good catch. I'm not sure why he patched it the way he did. I would have gone past the spring mount. Maybe I'll cut the repair and start over.

 

[53A1]

Came up with a slick way to roll your frame from under the body. The problem is I'm working on dirt and no room for a hoist and no helpers. Rear tires don't clear the stands. I did a three point lift and used a dolly on the rear end. You can use the dolly as a jack and remove tires a roll the frame out. I can roll the frame back for the day so body won't end up falling or crushing my pets that sleep under there.

 

[53A1]

Waiting on the dana 30 so I can start figuring out the steering. The rear cross member is in very good condition but wasn't done correctly to mount rear tank. I had to remove some old plate and I'm using a hitch plate I had laying around. I'm not sure how the straps that came with the tank are supposed to work but I think I'm just going to weld in some straps of my own.

 

[53A1]

New drums were installed by po.

 

[53A1]

Crack here?

View attachment 106185

That's where I would expect it to crack.

Looking at it again, you're completely correct. It cracked on each side of the mount. He had some obstructions like the body mount and exhaust hanger so he didn't run the patch as far as he should have. I'm going to cut it off and redo the whole thing. I'm bringing the frame over to the blacksmith that straightens my bumpers. He a magician with metallurgy. I'm going to see if he can weld a plate inside while he straightens the rear bumper/crossmember.

Otherwise, this frame looks good and the tub is excellent.

 

[53A1]

Removed the outer patch. Looks like it cracked most of the way up along rear spring hanger and it was repaired. Also looks like the hanger was cracked along bottom of hanger front and back.

I'm not going to try to remove the plate welded inside the frame. Cleanup and sand blast what is there and box it around the hanger is the plan.

 

[53A1]

I've been reading about boxing the frame. I found a post from someone who suggested this shape so I cut one out for fun. I haven't welded anything yet. I was impressed my scroll saw could handle cutting the radii.

 

[53A1]

My other jeep came with square boxing. It looks like a strap was also added forward of the hanger. I don't know which style to use.

 

[timgr]

My understanding - the style with the semicircle edge or 'fish mouth' is superior.
Have you heard the term "stress riser?"
A stress riser occurs where forces are localized and stresses at that point increase or 'rise.'
The fish mouth eases the transistion in stiffness from the boxed to the unboxed rail of the frame.
With the rectangular gusset, the transition from the unboxed to boxed section is sharp, creating a stress riser at the corner of the frame rail and the gusset.
Cracks tend to orignate at stress risers, such as abrupt corners or the leading tip of existing cracks.

Kinda think the strapping is a very good addition too.
Same rules about stress risers apply here.

 

[53A1]

My understanding - the style with the semicircle edge or 'fish mouth' is superior.
Have you heard the term "stress riser?"
A stress riser occurs where forces are localized and stresses at that point increase or 'rise.'
The fish mouth eases the transistion in stiffness from the boxed to the unboxed rail of the frame.
With the rectangular gusset, the transition from the unboxed to boxed section is sharp, creating a stress riser at the corner of the frame rail and the gusset.
Cracks tend to orignate at stress risers, such as abrupt corners or the leading tip of existing cracks.

Kinda think the strapping is a very good addition too.
Same rules about stress risers apply here.

Thanks for the insight into this. The second picture he applied strapping to the bottom of rail. It overlaps the crack and the boxing also overlaps the crack so it's covered on two planes.

I'm thinking of using the fish mouth with a strap across the bottom of rail (second picture) just forward of the hander. I'd think that removing the hanger and strapping under that surface would be good but I don't want to go down the rabbit hole.

Side note: I wish there was a sand blasting service in my area. These frames grew up in the desert but are still pretty dirty.