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Dauntless v6 carborator.

tomass

New Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2026
my engine is running good with the original rochester carb. What would I gain if anything by updating to a webber? I would like a smoother idle if that is possible with this engine.
 
I will vouch for the Rochester 2G all the time. When properly tuned and adjusted, it works great. I've run mine for 20 years at many elevations and conditions.
Remember, the odd-fire engine has inherent out of balance design that can never be fully eliminated.
I've never used a Weber, so can't speak to it.
Use the search feature as different carbs have been discussed multiple times here.
 
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Agree with others, if it’s not broken, don’t fix it.

About 10 years ago, I decided my 30+ year old Edelbrock Performer carb on my V6 was getting long in the tooth so should be updated. The old one was still running great, so no idea why I got this wild hair. I bought a new Performer carb, matched the tuning from the old carb and slipped it on. It never performed the same, so I bought a Holley 390…same result. Tried a FiTech fuel injection…a miserable failure.

The old carb went back on the motor and is still running great. It sucks that I have over $2,000 invested in trying to fix a carb that was never broken.
 
I think you are mistaking the “odd-fire” idle as rough running at idle. Its the nature of the uneven firing order of these V6’s, so you’re not going to get it to idle like an even-fire engine (as most all other engines are). The stock Rochester 2 bbl is very well-suited to these engines, and these carbs are not very finicky. Most of us here embrace the unique sound of these engines. They are a bit un-refined, but well suited to our vehicles.
 
Moving to a different carb would be a mistake. Rochester makes great carburetors and they are very easy to tune. I have never seen ANY holley work well offroad in 45 years of wheeling, events, competitions and good ole camping trips. . Webers are the same. And they are difficult and finicky to tune. They will never compare to a 2 barrel rochester. Mine ran fine laying on it's side till I shut it off. The rough idle is inherent to these odd fire engines. Here is the deal. Lower your float as far as possible till it stumbles in hard corners. Raise it a small amount. And top the float bowl with a marine gasket that covers the float bowl and you will have the very best carburetor for any offroad situation you may ever find yourself in. You will also have a carb with great manners on the road too. If you don't do hard wheeling, set the float to spec and don't worry about a marine bowl gasket. You will still have the best carb for the 225.
The only thoughts I ever had about changing my rochester was to put a rochester 2 barrel from a buick 350 wagoneer application on my 225 after down sizing the jets. It would require an adapter for the bigger bolt centers but this idea never happened. What I have just plain works. So I left it alone.
 
My 48 has the Dauntless 225, it currently has a Holley 360 mounted on an Offenhauser manifold. It is too much carburetor for that engine. Takes a very light touch to avoid overloading and stalling at low RPM. The previous owner had an even bigger Holley 500 on the Jeep a few years back, and switched to the smaller one, probably trying to improve low RPM performance, but it is still too much.

Now, it runs great at high RPM and will blast down the road, but I don't care much about that, and would prefer better manners on trail.

The stock manifold with the Rochester 2G, as was on my previous Dauntless powered Jeep, performed very well off-road.

One of my other CJ2As, with the L134 engine, has a Webber which performs well at low RPM, has good throttle response, but I had to tweak float adjustment and jets a lot before it would not starve out off camber, especially driver side down. That engine is going back to the WO.
 
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Rochester 2g or Motorcraft 2100/2150. Webber is a good carb ( contact Sal @ Vintage Jeeper) but personally too much tinker toy for what we need.
 
The key is to adjust the float low enough to keep fuel from spilling out the vent tube, while maintaining enough fuel in the bowl to keep the engine running. On my Edelbrock Performer, I had to put a piece of fuel line in the rear transfer port so the side bowls wouldn’t just drain to the other side. Once that problem was solved, it was a simple mater of adjusting the floats I was never successful in modifying a Holley carb for steep up/down angles, especially if there isn’t a feed line on both front and rear bowls, as the transfer tube just fills up the other bowl and overflows the vent tube.
 
if there isn’t a feed line on both front and rear bowls, as the transfer tube just fills up the other bowl and overflows the vent tube.
That's not correct. The transfer tube IS the fuel feed to the rear bowl, and thus is regulated by the float. The Holleys with a transfer tube use a side pivot float which works much better off road than the dual feed carbs with a center pivot float.
 
That's not correct. The transfer tube IS the fuel feed to the rear bowl, and thus is regulated by the float. The Holleys with a transfer tube use a side pivot float which works much better off road than the dual feed carbs with a center pivot float.
You are correct, the tube is the feed line on the rear bowl, but on steep angles, the float can allow more fuel to enter the high side bowl and just drain back down into the low side bowl and come out the vent tube. My point is that I have never been successful in getting the Holley 4160 to work for rock crawling. The last time I used a 4160 I had to winch up a steep uphill on Metal Masher at Moab because the fuel kept coming out of the low side vent tube. My modified Edelbrock Performer eliminated this issue because the bowls are or the sides and the rear transfer port has been blocked. The exit on Elephant Hill in Moab has a steep uphill, and the Performer idled down to really low rpms and chugged up the face.

I think Fireball is using a Holley 390, so he has figured out how to overcome this issue, I was just never successful with the 4160.
 
Mine is a Holley TA470 and it works really well off road.
A float that pivots fore/aft like a Holley double pumper or the Edelbrock/AFB is going to be affected more by steep angles than a side pivot float like a Holley 4160 or a Motorcraft 2bbl.
 
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All this talk of the 2G has me excited about removing air horn from my 15+ year old rebuild, checking/lowering the float level, installing the marine gasket and trying performance on steep hills. <thumbs up>
This trail is a few miles from my house. It should be a good test for Poughkeepsie wall in August!
BUT, I realize a fuel pressure regulator may be necessary.
 
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You are correct, the tube is the feed line on the rear bowl, but on steep angles, the float can allow more fuel to enter the high side bowl and just drain back down into the low side bowl and come out the vent tube. My point is that I have never been successful in getting the Holley 4160 to work for rock crawling. The last time I used a 4160 I had to winch up a steep uphill on Metal Masher at Moab because the fuel kept coming out of the low side vent tube. My modified Edelbrock Performer eliminated this issue because the bowls are or the sides and the rear transfer port has been blocked. The exit on Elephant Hill in Moab has a steep uphill, and the Performer idled down to really low rpms and chugged up the face.

I think Fireball is using a Holley 390, so he has figured out how to overcome this issue, I was just never successful with the 4160.

I have an Edelbrock on the Buick 350 in the '71. It has spring loaded needle valves, lowered floats, fuel pressure regulated to 3 psi, and the crossover blocked off.

I have a Holley 390 on the 225 in the DJ--3A. It has spring loaded needle valves, lowered floats, and the offroad style vent tube that connects the front/rear bowel vents.

Both seem to work about equally well offroad. It's taken me a lot longer to get the Holley tuned for on road driving, but it's getting there. I probably lean towards the Edelbrock because it's easier to tune by swapping out jets, springs, and metering rods from the top without having to drain the gas out of it. On the Holley, unless you have a fancy metering plate, there are several circuits you can't really tune.

My biggest complaint with the Edelbrock is that if it sits for more than a couple days, all the fuel evaporates out of the bowls and you have to crank for a while before you can start the engine. I've been temped to restrict the vents to see if it helps any.

All that said, I'd rather have fuel injection that doesn't care about the angle and that I can tune by pushing buttons on a laptop. ....eventually I'll get there.
 
Also an interesting note about the 2G carburetors, The original Jeep ones have a specially shaped float that is no longer available new. The Jeep engineers apparently did a bunch of testing and came up with a float that works better at angles.

I only know this because back in the '70s my dad bought the Jeep float to put in the 66 Buick 225 he has in his GPW. He said it did perform better in off-camber situations.

Jeep float on the left, standard 2G float on the right. The Jeep float is a really goofy shape:
AP1GczO-X7GgJBEGdgymW3GBtH1YajXD9Ay0yZfNKMmcK9-am9JiUeoMrJ8XYhxfONLQIfDS13nU0EGwdUISUPLmqPJEoq3N1mAFLKtgBe_UrNJU3qEIM_VzoPvMpsBdT6JwrVOI87Nb6pMTnHFhPiX0NBoQ=w1000


AP1GczO41z1qzQuULZ8gZiFrzPBbSt1nEb91REqMguhY6mCllfKj6KdnaOEwwfuky7Cbuvr-pqH7Hr0M-NOihgAjopvi5K7A3iQ0CbSBasmyESKB-L-QEcQrjDwbUlN_wMo2LU0n1pYHWKeEFurzVkANYWN1=w1000


AP1GczM6ZUl-9L2hBpwimp8STkTFSZ6Trvy5oHPJO9p2oU02ImQ2mXplYMx6EigyfWfR0-e2mUX03FgYKYf8lhunsA6aS37HSgFtLglZX4WEKCr5Znmtb7EJ1vNPTndprMjjp2MZgPCiUehYefbtbMoZczfo=w1000


AP1GczPZ0o6iZqYyqZg6PHasRDFR0rj5DZBRxmJ7GiJZCBIrmXF6-mSrNHHQNglRU3oQwiYWFSaxW6bg701nQ0O0wI8CFQhQPtHiuqjYA1iEtZHtn6TniYj_eeCJDLSXpAiMaK_hROEBG_Qial8zwtAM65Gu=w1000


Numbers on the Jeep float:
AP1GczN3JnGSOR4U-mkxPnkqmkqN4cOT5M_ofYMXsCo6Ujm2-KJ7HEgu2ztaPltXeYO7ACFCOpi50KYyqdtEtvcjGhEk6d6ZRIS9xZGik2_P488Him1zYvLFpbRNNt9Lktv-5P52agxVLvL-XaVIEdWx9XZq=w1000
 
Also an interesting note about the 2G carburetors, The original Jeep ones have a specially shaped float that is no longer available new. The Jeep engineers apparently did a bunch of testing and came up with a float that works better at angles.

I only know this because back in the '70s my dad bought the Jeep float to put in the 66 Buick 225 he has in his GPW. He said it did perform better in off-camber situations.

Jeep float on the left, standard 2G float on the right. The Jeep float is a really goofy shape:
AP1GczO-X7GgJBEGdgymW3GBtH1YajXD9Ay0yZfNKMmcK9-am9JiUeoMrJ8XYhxfONLQIfDS13nU0EGwdUISUPLmqPJEoq3N1mAFLKtgBe_UrNJU3qEIM_VzoPvMpsBdT6JwrVOI87Nb6pMTnHFhPiX0NBoQ=w1000


AP1GczO41z1qzQuULZ8gZiFrzPBbSt1nEb91REqMguhY6mCllfKj6KdnaOEwwfuky7Cbuvr-pqH7Hr0M-NOihgAjopvi5K7A3iQ0CbSBasmyESKB-L-QEcQrjDwbUlN_wMo2LU0n1pYHWKeEFurzVkANYWN1=w1000


AP1GczM6ZUl-9L2hBpwimp8STkTFSZ6Trvy5oHPJO9p2oU02ImQ2mXplYMx6EigyfWfR0-e2mUX03FgYKYf8lhunsA6aS37HSgFtLglZX4WEKCr5Znmtb7EJ1vNPTndprMjjp2MZgPCiUehYefbtbMoZczfo=w1000


AP1GczPZ0o6iZqYyqZg6PHasRDFR0rj5DZBRxmJ7GiJZCBIrmXF6-mSrNHHQNglRU3oQwiYWFSaxW6bg701nQ0O0wI8CFQhQPtHiuqjYA1iEtZHtn6TniYj_eeCJDLSXpAiMaK_hROEBG_Qial8zwtAM65Gu=w1000


Numbers on the Jeep float:
AP1GczN3JnGSOR4U-mkxPnkqmkqN4cOT5M_ofYMXsCo6Ujm2-KJ7HEgu2ztaPltXeYO7ACFCOpi50KYyqdtEtvcjGhEk6d6ZRIS9xZGik2_P488Him1zYvLFpbRNNt9Lktv-5P52agxVLvL-XaVIEdWx9XZq=w1000
You just learned me something new today! I've seen that float before but I had no idea why it was so strange.
 
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