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Project HENDRIX 2.0

jeepstar said:
Do the plates for boxing the frame get welded flush to the inside? Bought these that came with a few other parts for a Saginaw kit. Trim to fit?
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Trim to fit first...although it probabIy doesn't matter a lot, most of us have cut the pieces to fit inside the frame rail so the seam you need to weld is on the inside face and not on top....the grind smooth where the box mount will go.
 
okay, after some long thinking, i have decided a route to go.

after over 25 years of owning my orange jeep, i am going to take all my goodies from my orange jeep and move them onto this jeep chassis. i love my jeep, and i feel like i am not entirely doing it a disservice by doing this, but rather improving upon it. originally i had wanted to source a dauntless engine and go from there, but after i did that, the frame was too toast to cut out rusty engine mount sections to graft into my F134 frame. then i picked this parts jeep up from chicago and was going to do that but hey, its already on a very nice frame why not just use what's there. now i am not cutting up two perfectly good jeep frames.


my end goal jeep:
1970 Jeep CJ5
BDS 2.5" suspension
231 even fire engine
T14 transmission
D18 transfer case (twin stick)
Flanged Dana 44 with a Detroit Tru-Trac 4.27 gearing
Dana 30 front with an Eaton E-locker 4.27 gearing
Saginaw steering
working gas gauge. never owned a jeep with a working gas gauge :)
i will put all the suspension stuff from this parts jeep onto my other jeep so at least in the end i will have a rolling chassis with the 134/T98. i cant part with that yet.

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jeepstar said:
For the clutch I want to do the AA chain clutch. Everything I've read states it's a vast improvement over the tube. Thought ftom those that have done it?

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I have never used the AA chain, however I have used the tube style system.

If you’re on flat ground, the tube system is fine, but when you get a bit twisted up it can stop you from being able to disengage and stop….

It’s actually quite scary.
 
47v6 said:
If you’re on flat ground, the tube system is fine, but when you get a bit twisted up it can stop you from being able to disengage and stop….
Click to expand...
all i have used is the tubed bellcrank on my 134 engine jeeps. mainly looking to simplify the geegaws. this seems like an elegant solution. ideally id do a pedal swap hydraulic conversion but i want this merge to be an under 2 month project realistically
 
One issue people have ran into with the AA cable setup is the total clutch travel.

The holes aren't the same distance from the axis on the clutch tube, so there is a change in the motion ratio on the stock setup:
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The AA cable has a one-to-one motion ratio by nature, so you loose some travel at the clutch. It may or may not work with your particular clutch setup.

My DJ-3A had the AA cable on it when I got it, and you can see where they (crudely) welded a piece metal to the pedal shaft and moved the hole out to get the necessary travel at the clutch:
AP1GczP_zQh-Pbq1q6RCcy_4c9TucNSL5ZvL_AQ6p31uAn3eAcPwDmJ1Z0RjDLVS8obnDCF04asEPz3RfSlzaU83ufe1c0qgp1we0pzveZB6m3Z8Q9IOPVtTYjavJaAf2niKUF8mdyUzVtjgGC6VqNoDCjUq4w=w800
 
jeepstar said:
all i have used is the tubed bellcrank on my 134 engine jeeps. mainly looking to simplify the geegaws. this seems like an elegant solution. ideally id do a pedal swap hydraulic conversion but i want this merge to be an under 2 month project realistically
Click to expand...
Yeah, Fhead powered 2a tube clutch setup. Honestly, it could have killed me since I could not stop my jeep. Those things wear out the mount on the transfer case side and wallow out the holes for the rod. Mine was all new at the time… so, even if the AA setup needs a bit of tweaking, at least you can stop before you roll over..

Also, to do again, I’m not so sure I would go swinging pedals. The only advantage is power brakes, but if you’re putting in a more modern engine, have power steering, hydro boost can work with floor mounted pedals.

Since cj5s came with swinging pedals, I’m not so sure it’s a big of a deal as a 2a or 3a.
 
Read the begining and end of this thread

Buildflycrash

Thread 'Overly Sensitive Clutch'

I'm going to have to pull/rebuild my T14 transmission and definitely want to get this second bird while I'm in there.

My clutch is very sensitive! There is only about 2" on the pedal from Fully engaged to fully distinguished. You know the pedal has like 10"+ of travel so there is a lot of searching for the spot where it starts and I sometimes stall on taking off from a stop. :oops: Wheeling on rough trails is very hard with this clutch.

I have the Advanced Adapter chain linkage (which works great) and I have no idea what brand clutch. I think it was the cheap one from RockAuto. A...
 
Buildflycrash said:
Read the begining and end of this thread

Buildflycrash

Thread 'Overly Sensitive Clutch'

I'm going to have to pull/rebuild my T14 transmission and definitely want to get this second bird while I'm in there.

My clutch is very sensitive! There is only about 2" on the pedal from Fully engaged to fully distinguished. You know the pedal has like 10"+ of travel so there is a lot of searching for the spot where it starts and I sometimes stall on taking off from a stop. :oops: Wheeling on rough trails is very hard with this clutch.

I have the Advanced Adapter chain linkage (which works great) and I have no idea what brand clutch. I think it was the cheap one from RockAuto. A...
Click to expand...

That's the thread I was remembering but too lazy to look up.
 
brake day yesterday. the guy i got the donor jeep from bought an entire brake replacement kit from kaiser willys. new master cylinder mounts, hard lines, master cylinder, bleeder kit. not a fan of the MC mounting bracket, i reused the older one. i tried to get that thing lined up and had to cut a big corner off and then watched some youtube videos and they all had the same issues i was running into, so i just put on the OEM bracket. the MC fit it just fine. removed the MC for bench bleeding and found i ran
dot 3 fluid and never replaced my bottle. so that was it for the night. hopefully i can get the brakes buttoned up today.

i need to get the body on in order to set the plunger depth on pedal, am i right?

i can run the brake hard lines, bleed it all while the body is off, put body on and then set the length of travel for the MC pushrod? its so nice to get everything done while there is easy access to everything.IMG_20260624_063915.jpg
 
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