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CJ 6 Improvement

I’m trying to get my wiring harness sorted out and somewhat labeled. Not sure what is proper terminology for this plug is (bulkhead)maybe. I would think that the black crud was once a lubricant/anticorrosion type thing.
Right now it’s a hard, crusty, stuck on mess. How would you guys go about cleaning this up? Not sure if I could get any continuity thru this.
1768757170760.jpeg
Just 1 of the plugs
1768757226365.jpeg
 
3b a runnin said:
I’m trying to get my wiring harness sorted out and somewhat labeled. Not sure what is proper terminology for this plug is (bulkhead)maybe. I would think that the black crud was once a lubricant/anticorrosion type thing.
Right now it’s a hard, crusty, stuck on mess. How would you guys go about cleaning this up? Not sure if I could get any continuity thru this.
View attachment 103907
Just 1 of the plugs
View attachment 103908
Click to expand...

Brake cleaner and a sacrificial toothbrush?
 
Bulkhead connector, yes.
Any connector that is mounted in a panel for electrical pass-through is a bulkhead connector.

These connectors are typically packed with dielectric grease to weatherproof them.
For some reason, it's always brown in color - looks bad, but not indicative of electrical badness AFAIK.
I don't think the color is an issue - just reflective of the product's original color and age.

I'm not sure there would be a benefit to cleaning it.
However, if you want to clean it, I would strongly suggest not to use anything like brake cleaner that might attack the plastic.
I'd use a commercial contact cleaner that says 'safe for plastics' on the label, and an old toothbrush.
I buy the WD-40 brand; seems to be the cheapest:
Works fine.

If I removed all the grease, I would replace it with a simlar quantity of new dielectric grease:
"Dielectric" just means it's electrically non-conductive.

If you want to clean corrosion, I suggest Deoxit brand contact cleaner:
"Technician in a can."
The D5 is 95% solvent and 5% active corrosion remover.
Meant for easy application.
The D100 is 100% corrosion dissolving chemical, and expensive, but you only need a tiny amount if you can apply it directly to the connector.

Use the cheap stuff for cleaning and Deoxit for corrosion cutting, sparingly.
 
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I have another question for you more intelligent, more experienced folks.
My plan for this build is to use the computer, hopefully as is, mainly for the benefit of TBI. I know the computer, (ECM )also controls the ignition timing, air mixture etc. According to the book that I have ( Haynes) the speed sensor is only used for the speedometer. Different on a truck with cruise control, but that won’t apply here.
Top left, well top right since it didn't flip
1768862419266.jpeg
It shows to go to a speed sensor buffer
I think this is it mounted external of the computer.
1768862562793.jpeg
Of course my question is, do I need a speed sensor? Novak offers that option in the adapter for the Dana 300. I don’t have any idea if it would be compatible, with my current computer.
 
sterlclan said:
the 700 in my 87 had a computer-controlled lock up converter but it had a mechanical speedo. so, I'm no help
Click to expand...
Novak says their turnkey 700R4 would have an electric controlled torque converter deactivated by the brake light sw. My trans and harness both have the plugs for that. I talked to the shop manager at my local Chevy dealership tday, and he said the computer did not need the speed sensor.
Then he added, "At least I don't think so".
 
I'm still waiting on the Novak transmission, so I haven't done anything with this project.
I have thought about changing the windshield to a later version with bottom mounted wipers and curved top.
My question is will it affect my Tiger top/doors?
 
3b a runnin said:
I'm still waiting on the Novak transmission, so I haven't done anything with this project.
I have thought about changing the windshield to a later version with bottom mounted wipers and curved top.
My question is will it affect my Tiger top/doors?
Click to expand...
I have tops on my 71 and 67 with the upgraded windshield. No problems with fitment.
 
My understanding is the frame is the exact same dimensionally, just the wipers are moved to the bottom, and the glass is moved up towards the top of the frame.
 
3b a runnin said:
I have another question for you more intelligent, more experienced folks.
My plan for this build is to use the computer, hopefully as is, mainly for the benefit of TBI. I know the computer, (ECM )also controls the ignition timing, air mixture etc. According to the book that I have ( Haynes) the speed sensor is only used for the speedometer. Different on a truck with cruise control, but that won’t apply here.
Top left, well top right since it didn't flip
View attachment 103937
It shows to go to a speed sensor buffer
I think this is it mounted external of the computer.
Of course my question is, do I need a speed sensor?
Click to expand...
The speed sensor helps fine tune fuel ratio when the vehicle is running down the road. I used an aftermarket one. It screws into the speedometer cable. I had to find the right number pulses to match the S-10 speed sensor. I was able to find this number in the Factory Service Manual.
Although I occasionally get a speed sensor code. I do believe it is due to the motor is out of a 2wd S-10. When going downhill in low range. The computer has trouble figuring out why the RPMs are so high at such low speeds.
 
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