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Installing axles on a 10 spline Dana 44 after locker install

cj2atruck

cj2atruck

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2020
I used a slide hammer to remove the rear axles to install the locker in the 10 spline Dana 44, so didn’t remove the wheel plate. Can I use longer bolts to press the race into the housing using the backing plate and the install the correct bolts? I don’t really want to remove the wheel plate just to tap in the race.

I replace everything a couple of years ago, including the wheel plate, so I don’t really want to pull the axle apart just to reinstall the race.
 
Wheel plate?

It would not be possible to remove the axles that way from a D44 with tapered axles.

Which axle do you have?
 
Sounds like the shims between the housing and backing plate. If you used the same spacer block inside the locker that came out of the open diff, And the shim packs are roughly even than yes but it's not ideal. You will be pulling the outer cup into the axle housing by the lip of the backing plate. Disk caliper brackets can do it but the drum backing plate isn't thick enough for a big fight.
 
I guess the “plate” is actually called the wheel hub that is held onto the axle with a big nut.

Yes, I have shims for bearing. I wonder if I can just make a couple of half circle pieces out of 1/4” plate that would take the load from the bolts by putting them on the outside of the backing plate during installation, and then remove. Not really juiced up about removing the wheel hub from the axle, as the last time I bent both hubs and had to replace.
 
I’ve used a 1964 cj5 Dana 44 when I’ve ordered parts for the axle. Both axles are already out with the slide hammer, so don’t understand why this wouldn’t be possible. Used the same method when I rebuilt it years ago, but that time I replaced the hubs, so just tapped the race into the housing.
 
cj2atruck said:
I’ve used a 1964 cj5 Dana 44 when I’ve ordered parts for the axle. Both axles are already out with the slide hammer, so don’t understand why this wouldn’t be possible. Used the same method when I rebuilt it years ago, but that time I replaced the hubs, so just tapped the race into the housing.
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Probably best to just upgrade to one piece full float shafts before the Rubicon trip.
We have seen plenty of axle breakage with one piece stock type axles..... Tapered hub style will definitely require carrying spare shafts, keys, hubs and tools for repair.
 
Norcal69 said:
Probably best to just upgrade to one piece full float shafts before the Rubicon trip.
We have seen plenty of axle breakage with one piece stock type axles..... Tapered hub style will definitely require carrying spare shafts, keys, hubs and tools for repair.
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I agree, replacing a tapered axle isn't fun even in the garage, let alone the trail. And if it breaks, you are immobile. I definitely would not run that.
 
Without knowing what you meant by "wheel plate" I am unsure of how you went about that.

On the axles in my Jeeps the bearing is pressed onto the shaft, the axle shaft is installed, the race is then tapped in, and endplay is controlled with shims under the bearing retainer. You cannot pull an axle without removing the retainer, as that would mean the bearing would have to come through the race and retainer, which is impossible.
 
Oldpappy said:
On the axles in my Jeeps the bearing is pressed onto the shaft, the axle shaft is installed, the race is then tapped in, and endplay is controlled with shims under the bearing retainer. You cannot pull an axle without removing the retainer, as that would mean the bearing would have to come through the race and retainer, which is impossible.
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Never Say Never-

I was driving Tonk for a year or so when he developed a nasty vibration/wobble. Turns out the PO had put the wheel bearings in backwards. :whistle:

I have no idea why the axles didn't just fall out. :confused:
 
cj2atruck said:
I’ve used a 1964 cj5 Dana 44 when I’ve ordered parts for the axle. Both axles are already out with the slide hammer, so don’t understand why this wouldn’t be possible. Used the same method when I rebuilt it years ago, but that time I replaced the hubs, so just tapped the race into the housing.
Click to expand...

Can you identify in the parts drawing what you're referring to as a "wheel plate"?
 
Howard Eisenhauer said:
Can you identify in the parts drawing what you're referring to as a "wheel plate"?
Click to expand...

cj2atruck said:
I guess the “plate” is actually called the wheel hub that is held onto the axle with a big nut.

Yes, I have shims for bearing. I wonder if I can just make a couple of half circle pieces out of 1/4” plate that would take the load from the bolts by putting them on the outside of the backing plate during installation, and then remove. Not really juiced up about removing the wheel hub from the axle, as the last time I bent both hubs and had to replace.
Click to expand...
 
I am beginning to understand how you are planning to do this, but you will get a much better result, for less effort by doing the job the correct way.

Removing the hubs is not difficult if you have the proper puller for the job, especially hubs that haven't been on for decades.
 
I too have bent hubs trying to remove them even with the proper tools. I would just make a full float axle. You have gone this far, seems like a natural progression. All you need is moser to cut splines and someone to bore out a spindle to an ID of 1.31. You also have to machine the mating surface to fit inside the axle. you use D30 hubs and spindles. Pick your brake choice.
 
I'm another that likes full float where even if you break an axle shaft, everything stays put and you still have brakes, not to mention just pulling the drive flange or broken shaft with the wheel still on the ground (unless you are unfortunate purchaser of Herm's 30 spline shafts) and driving out in front wheel drive mode. That said, obviously some expense involved even if you build your own full float. But absolutely worth it.

I purchased the puller 47v6 referenced above 50 something years back. Hopefully the current off shore made version is as good.
 
Howard Eisenhauer said:
I'm thinking the same thing- something isn't adding up.

Which parts are we actually talking about here?
View attachment 103587
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OK, so I’m staring at the picture and my bearing is pressed onto the shaft facing towards the backing plate, not towards the differential as mine are installed. This picture doesn’t appear to be for an Offset Dana 44, but if the offset 44 is the same, the picture seems to indicate that my axle bearings are installed backwards. So, are all Dana 44 outer bearings installed as shown in this picture? If so, seems someone in the last 70 years installed the bearings backwards, as I just installed them as they came out.

If mine are installed backwards, no wonder everyone is confused by my question.
 
64 should be 19 spline inner.
I would have issues investing more into a 10 spline axle. I would avoid investing in 19 spline axles (even though that's what I did) . A 30 spline selectable or torsen diff with full float is the best you can get with that coil spring converted housing.
There are dozens of variations to full float conversions. I've collected everything needed except shafts which will at least let me flat tow home with my tail between my legs.
 
Cone goes on the shaft, cup goes towards the backing plate on tapered axles.

Opposite c-clip axles ours compress the slug that wraps around the spider gear shaft.
 
Jw60 said:
64 should be 19 spline inner.
I would have issues investing more into a 10 spline axle. I would avoid investing in 19 spline axles (even though that's what I did) . A 30 spline selectable or torsen diff with full float is the best you can get with that coil spring converted housing.
There are dozens of variations to full float conversions. I've collected everything needed except shafts which will at least let me flat tow home with my tail between my legs.
Click to expand...
Yes, I understand the thought process, but the reality is that if I was building a bullet proof rock crawling rig I would not be starting with a 1947 Jeep, and I would not be using a Dana 44 and Dana 25.

In addition, I rock crawl slow, so I’m not a “when in doubt gas it out” type of rock crawler. I’ve been wheeling jeeps for over 40 years, from my 1942 to the newest in the stable, a 2024 Gladiator, and in all those years I have never broken an axle or damaged a differential on the trail. Doesn’t mean it won’t happen in the future, but it’s never happened before, even on my old old CJs. When I started wheeling when I was 20s, my moto was the slower I go the less I break, and that moto has served me well.

I’m really not sure what Dana 44 I have in the 47, I’ve just used 1964 to source parts, and they have generally worked. I know I have 10 spline axles, as the axles are sitting on the bench, so I might have something earlier.

Finally, it’s easy to let ones imagination run wild on a project and start to go down a rabbit hole and a project never gets completed. In programming, we called that scope creep, and it just kept extending the project completion date. I may someday go with full floating axles with disc brakes, a Dana 44 up front, etc, but that’s some day. Right now, the plan is to get my 47 back on the road with only the conversion to coil springs and the rear locker, and then start thinking about the next modification. I’ve wheeled the 47 in Moab quite a lot (and will spend another 3-4 weeks in February in Moab) as well as other trails around the northwest, and it’s been a solid rig. No reason to start doubting the components…
 
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