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Holy Guacamole!

timsresort said:
The hydroboost that I just did on Woodstock is an improvement I should have done years ago. It actually takes some getting used to. I just put one toe on the pedal, and it has the jeep stopped. It was really nice on big steep drops on the trail. I am going to put one in Nick's tux next. The biggest PIA was going back and forth to the hydraulic shop for hoses, but other than that, it's an easy upgrade.
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I’m curious what brake master (diameter) you used. I landed on 1-1/4” so it wouldn’t be too touchy with the down side being if/when I stall and use up the residual pressure in the system, the effort will be more to stop it than a smaller diameter brake master. My daily driver has an electric powered hydroboost system and has a much more touchy brake pedal that the last truck that was vacuum but otherwise the same.
 
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The disc/disc MC is 8.25" total. Total stickout from firewall with WFO bracket, HB, MC is 16".
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Just ran to the garage. Looks like I need a 7” master, or a different pump configuration. Maybe one of Brennan’s brackets. :shrug:
 
You must have the high pump. The low pump I have on the tux is no where near. I think Sam just used one of Brennan's brackets, and I think there was an issue, maybe hard to reach bolts or something? Maybe give Sam a call on that. If it were me I'd look for a low 231/350 bracket.
 
blalp! said:
Just ran to the garage. Looks like I need a 7” master, or a different pump configuration. Maybe one of Brennan’s brackets. :shrug:
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blalp! said:
I had a feeling that was going to happen…
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I would return the late model master cylinder if you are still within that window. It is going to use metric fittings and be a general leaky PITA offroad.
What is preventing you from shortening the mounting bracket that the hydro boost uses to mount to the firewall?
If you are going to stick with a mechanical fuel pump, you will want to use the high mount power steering bracket. Ask 707Jeeper about having to remove his power steering to access his fuel pump on the trail.....
Converting the pump to a remote style is another option, as long as you can get the remote reservoir higher than the pump.
I like the high mount pump bracket because it gets the pump slightly away from the concentrated heat of the engine/ exhaust.
 
I would prefer to run the hydroboost mount bracket as the pushrod needs the length based on the CJ7 pedal mount and swing. Without the bracket, the pushrod would be very short. The longer the rod, the less steep of an angle during middle of pedal travel.

When I ordered the brake master, I got lucky because some cylinders are metric as @Norcal69 pointed out. However, mine is listed as being standard, and I was able to
confirm with some spare fittings.

Knowing the long term goal is fuel injection as I did on Brown Jeep (with Norcal69’s guidance), I’m not worried about the mechanical fuel pump as this will be eliminated.

Remembering @Fireball’s 71 Wheeling Rig thread, I sourced a lower P/S pump bracket from EBay. While I don’t have all the correct hardware to mount the pump properly, the photos below shows the pump and brake master no longer will be trying to occupy the same space.
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A box from Novak arrived today.
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If I stick with this exhaust manifold, there will probably need to be a heat shield. Once the new bellhousing is on, we can check how much space there really is between exhaust and slave cylinder.
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Measured and drilled for clutch master using some instructions I found online for converting a CJ7 from linkage to hydraulic. It gave measurements relative to the pedal mount bolt holes. This made it easy to locate.
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You can see in this picture there is a hole that was already drilled in the plate close to the upper clutch master bolt. This wasn’t a mistake drilling for the master as it was not realizing the upper center hole for the factory heater shouldn’t have been drilled for mounting the firewall plate. I’ll fill the hole before it the plate gets painted.
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Here the head of a rivet was ground down and a 1/2” hole near the rivet was drilled for clutch pushrod. Also seen in this photo is the window cut in the pedal bracket to clear a reinforcement on the inside of the firewall.
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The 90s Chevy K3500 hydroboost pedal pushrod was too long. An inch and a half was cut out. Threads were cut into both ends to make the shaft adjustable to fine tune.
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Now the assembly is ready to go back in so the pedal arms can be modified to allow full travel.
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blalp! said:
Measured and drilled for clutch master using some instructions I found online for converting a CJ7 from linkage to hydraulic. It gave measurements relative to the pedal mount bolt holes. This made it easy to locate.
View attachment 107356

You can see in this picture there is a hole that was already drilled in the plate close to the upper clutch master bolt. This wasn’t a mistake drilling for the master as it was not realizing the upper center hole for the factory heater shouldn’t have been drilled for mounting the firewall plate. I’ll fill the hole before it the plate gets painted.
View attachment 107357

Here the head of a rivet was ground down and a 1/2” hole near the rivet was drilled for clutch pushrod. Also seen in this photo is the window cut in the pedal bracket to clear a reinforcement on the inside of the firewall.
View attachment 107358

The 90s Chevy K3500 hydroboost pedal pushrod was too long. An inch and a half was cut out. Threads were cut into both ends to make the shaft adjustable to fine tune.
View attachment 107359

Now the assembly is ready to go back in so the pedal arms can be modified to allow full travel.
View attachment 107360
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Nice progress. Swing pedals are a chunk of work. Are you thinking the pedal arms need to shorten?
 
timsresort said:
Nice progress. Swing pedals are a chunk of work. Are you thinking the pedal arms need to shorten?
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Thanks Tim. I’m not 100% sure on that. I like the idea of having more leverage as well as having the pedals an inch or two lower to be more in line with the throttle pedal. On the other hand, I’d like the pedals as far as possible from the driver seat while still having full throw. In the end, I will probably have a hybrid between what Norcal69 and you did.
 
blalp! said:
Thanks Tim. I’m not 100% sure on that. I like the idea of having more leverage as well as having the pedals an inch or two lower to be more in line with the throttle pedal. On the other hand, I’d like the pedals as far as possible from the driver seat while still having full throw. In the end, I will probably have a hybrid between what Norcal69 and you did.
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It will be interesting to see if you can get more length, but I don't think you will need it with the hydroboost. Just put the pedals where you are comfortable. With my HB, it is shocking how quick it stops, with very little effort.
 
timsresort said:
It will be interesting to see if you can get more length, but I don't think you will need it with the hydroboost. Just put the pedals where you are comfortable. With my HB, it is shocking how quick it stops, with very little effort.
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Am I wrong in thinking the CJ7 pedals have more mechanical advantage than the frame mounted pedals? Maybe by the time I am done bending the 7 pedals the pad to fulcrum length will be similar to the old pedals. Whatever the outcome, it will be a learning experience and a fun project.
 
I did swing pedals and a CJ7 booster years ago in my 66 CJ5. Wasn't too hard. IIRC I did have to have the pedal shortened. With the power booster and 11" drums it stopped nicely.
 
I know what it was now - I had to cut the pedal, weld a 6" horizontal extension to it sending it inboard, then drop the pedal from there. Otherwise there was steering column interference. Worred about adding different stress to the pivot but was never a problem.
 
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