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Holy Guacamole!

This older repair is in the way of welding the new spring hanger. The large bar will get cut off, then clean up the existing weld, and put a plate over it.
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Before all the welding starts, the Ross steering box, and pedals with brake master need to come off. This bolt on top of the rail was just long enough to slow the progress.

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A sawsall did the trick, but time ran out. The brake lines are still holding the master in place. That can be a next weekend project.
 
Isn’t it amazing how a household pet can fill such a large place in your heart? Last weekend was a hard one, especially because it came on so early. At least it was quick. We love her dearly and miss her greatly.
 
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Now to catch up on the progress.

Just about ready for a plate.
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Front YJ shackle hangers fit and squared. I did “X” out the front of the frame and seems square. I say “seems” as both front shackle hangers had damage repaired, so I used bumper holes up front to the original main eye spring hangers.
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I tacked the fronts.
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Next I need to grind for welding the spring hangers. That should have been done BEFORE I squared everything. I guess it’s practice…

Then I have some 3/16 scrap plate that I’ll use for gussets on the inside of the frame at the spring hanger brackets. The gussets will close enough to the engine box sections that I’d like to tie them in.
 
My Jeep was the same color, but repainted later in some military look, it was a 71. This green is a very nice color, do you keep it for the future ?
 
My Jeep was the same color, but repainted later in some military look, it was a 71. This green is a very nice color, do you keep it for the future ?
While this tub would make for a great restoration candidate, I plan to keep it as is with the patina. If in the future if I decide to paint it, I would probably keep the color. It’s the same color as the first running driving Jeep I ever owned.
 
With the spring eyes tacked, I’m unsure.

I started by marking the centerline of the spring hangers.
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Then I got up and down 1000 times going side to side clamping and measuring.
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Next, I tacked the spring hangers in places as well as the DOM in the shackle hangers so the springs could go in for a trial fit.
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And here is my shackle angle. After spending a lot of time thinking about this and my shackle length, I split the difference between the equation NorCal69 uses and the factory YJ spacing. I’ll still put the axle in for testing, but I may end up moving the shackle hangers back.
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Shaun, what's the plan for the front bumper, being that the fore hanger appears to be tucked up at the edge of the horn? I suppose you could notch the bottom rail of the bumper to make it fit....
 
Saturday morning started with questions about last weekend’s work.
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First, the spring was disassembled, installed, and measured to confirm where the spring hanger needs to be. All week long I was convinced that it was 1-3/4 too far forward. Not sure where that came from, because the center spring bolt hole was only 1/4” forward of the old springs. With that confirmed, the shackle hangers were cut off and moved back 2” for a 41” center to center. Turns out it was too far back with too extreme of a shackle angle.
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Today was spent cutting the shackle hangers off again, reviewing the math, measuring everything over and over before welding back on at 43” where it was when the weekend began.
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Stopped by the local steel supplier to pick up some odds and ends for various Jeep projects. In the pile was this piece of 1/4” wall 3” square tube for high clearance spring plates as @Norcal69 made for Steve’s Jeep.
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After a few minutes I had two of these.

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I wondered if I may have to address the inside radius a little to match that of the springs, but not this much. This became a stopping point until I figure out how to proceed.

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Welded up the front shackle and spring hangers today. I was hoping to address the crack and box the four mounts of the front suspension. However, the afternoon was spent working with the neighbor putting up fence. Here are a couple of in process photos. I will say, my eyes aren’t what they used to be.

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Yes, there is a jog in the frame here. However, I was welding pretty much blind. Between the engine, grille strut, motor mount, welding helmet, and glasses that didn’t want to be in the right spot; l have to say I went off course a time or two. I know it doesn’t look like it but I did clean the inside of the frame where I welded.
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Some supplies arrived during the week. With a rear dump manifold bolted in place, I can start to finalize the steering plans (and order the appropriate parts).
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It would be nice if the steering cleared with a direct line to the steering box. It will be close if it does, probably too close.
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Novak had a quick turnaround time on a custom order. I had them turn a Ford T18/19 input bearing retainer for a GM T/O bearing and leaving the Ford bellhousing diameter. This allows the use of Advance Adapters bellhousing I drilled for the IH T19 in an earlier post. Along with the bearing retainer, I ordered from Novak an input bearing. Given how hard it was for me to find a narrow (20mm) bearing, it’s no surprise it came from China. The Novak adjustable T/O bearing was slated for Brown Jeep, so it was already on the shelf.
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While it was a busy weekend, we still made time for Jeeps. Today was a little cutting, welding, and a little more cutting.
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Now for the inside.
The plates need a little touch-up, then prep the frame for welding. Don’t tell anyone but I screwed up the cuts (shape) on the back edges. The plan was for them to be 6-1/2” extensions of the factory boxing. Oops. I have a week to decide if I want to redo them.
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Short of re-boxing the left rail end that I will do when I mount the P/S box, the front suspension mounts are ready for some satin black paint. The rear springs are going to wait until a few other projects are completed so properly loaded ride hight can be set. Here are the frame box extenders. After these photos, the last of the welding was finished on the front spring hangers.
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Now to focus on steering and pedals, so the rest of the parts can be ordered.
 
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