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Ram 1500 Woes Continued But With A Happy Ending..

Jeepenstein

Jeepenstein

Me like Jeep..
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Joined
Jun 15, 2003
No not that kind you weirdos...

Shortly after I bought this truck, 2017 Ram 1500 Hemi it had a weird fumble on hot starts, it would run fine after starting, but always started kinda funky. Initially I thought it was an idle air control valve.. Turns out my 90’s EFI knowledge is a few decades behind and the hemi ain’t got one.. It’s drive by wire, no IAC, just a motor which I was like ok, maybe that’s not behaving.. Stupid me went to the forums and let the internet talk me into chasing ghosts instead of doing some actual troubleshooting. I replaced evap valves, injectors thinking I had a leaky one etc..



Aaaaaanyhow.. I learned a few things..


Lesson one, trust your gut and do actual troubleshooting instead of the internet..

Lesson two, don’t manually cycle the throttle body on the new motor controlled units while cleaning.. You will be buying a new throttle body.. And then trying to figure out how to get the computer to relearn it without a programmer..


Lesson three, part numbers matter. I thought I had a leaky injector (it turned out to be the throttle body), so I ordered new injectors.. The internet said I had part 05037479AA, which I ordered.. The ones I took out were 05037479AC.. Hmm, so the internet says they are compatible.. Well, they are, if you reflash your computer to accept the AA.. I missed that part.. It ran like dog poo.. so more internet, then I come across this gem..


“The Chrysler part numbers 05037479AA and 05037479AC are fuel injectors, but they are not interchangeable. The "AC" version is a later revision and a common replacement for the "AA" version. The "AA" injector is not a direct replacement for the "AB", "AC", or "AD" versions, and the listed specifications are different. “



Dangit.. So I now am able to swap Hemi fuel injectors faster than I can change oil.. All’s well that ends well, it runs great now, I put the old ones back in, but I have a nice new set of Bosch injectors that are useless.. lol..


I guess sometimes you gotta learn the hard way.
 
ohhhh, my learning method strikes again. always have the approach of if you smash head hard enough, and frequent enough, you can bust thru the block wall, a little bloodied and bruised, but thru it...

about to see if some chinesium amazon hatch struts will work on the highlander rear hatch, as highlander has "bose sound system" and those struts are carrying a different part number and are significantly more ... parts may not be parts... but gonna take a peeksee and smash ol nog against it a bit
 
Danefraz said:
ohhhh, my learning method strikes again. always have the approach of if you smash head hard enough, and frequent enough, you can bust thru the block wall, a little bloodied and bruised, but thru it...

about to see if some chinesium amazon hatch struts will work on the highlander rear hatch, as highlander has "bose sound system" and those struts are carrying a different part number and are significantly more ... parts may not be parts... but gonna take a peeksee and smash ol nog against it a bit
Click to expand...


Yeah I play the Amazon parts game a lot.. I win some, lose some, but like I tell my wife, it could be hookers and blow for a hobby.. lol
 
Well, apparently I still have no hit "the" problem.. The fumble at warm start is still there. I'm at a loss. I'm not keen on going to a dealer as I know how that will go.. $5,000 and 5 days later I still won' have an answer. It's really frustrating. It runs perfect otherwise, fuel mileage and all that seem fine, just whenever there is a hot restart.. I'll try to get a video of it soon and post it just to see if any of you recognize the symptom..
 
Well, now it seems after a couple of drive cycles, the computer has caught up and its running really nice.. Even the stumble seems to have gone away. One thing I do find odd is the low idle speed. 600 RPM is normal for the Hemi, apparently to save fuel.. But it's widely reported to contribute to off idle response and one of the primary drivers behind the dreaded Hemi tick, and cam/lifter failure as the oil pressure gets to around 28 PSI at idle on a hot day and the 5W-20 oil.. Supposedly going to a different viscosity oil will drive the computer nuts too.. This truck has an interesting learning curve for sure..
 
Jeepenstein said:
Well, now it seems after a couple of drive cycles, the computer has caught up and its running really nice.. Even the stumble seems to have gone away. One thing I do find odd is the low idle speed. 600 RPM is normal for the Hemi, apparently to save fuel.. But it's widely reported to contribute to off idle response and one of the primary drivers behind the dreaded Hemi tick, and cam/lifter failure as the oil pressure gets to around 28 PSI at idle on a hot day and the 5W-20 oil.. Supposedly going to a different viscosity oil will drive the computer nuts too.. This truck has an interesting learning curve for sure..
Click to expand...
This statement has fully convinced me that I don’t want anything “new”.
 
Chrysler part #'s should be reverse engineered. An AC part should work fine where an AA part was. Alot of times you probably wouldn't notice any difference unless you drove in that one very specific range where the fix was made for.
They were up to AR and AS on a few parts when i was there:rolleyes:
 
termin8ed said:
Chrysler part #'s should be reverse engineered. An AC part should work fine where an AA part was. Alot of times you probably wouldn't notice any difference unless you drove in that one very specific range where the fix was made for.
They were up to AR and AS on a few parts when i was there:rolleyes:
Click to expand...


I thought the same, and physically, yes, they fit and all that but the computer was not happy at all. It ran like absolute garbage. Apparently you can make the later revisions work, but requires a reflash.. I stuck the old ones back in after a cleaning and they are doing fine. It turned out to be the Throttle body and motor assembly. When I shook the old one, you could hear something rattling around in there that should not have been rattling around. I wanted to open it up and see what that was, but I had to return it for a core charge.
 
Well, I finally solved the weird starting issues and all that with the right set of new injectors a couple of months ago.. Runs great now, but this weekend I got a new issue.. A small noise form the rear end at a certain speed.. I thought, wheel bearing.. Drove 3 hours back home and got ready to do wheel bearings. Popped the rear diff cover to get to the C clips, and yeah.. No Bueno.. Crunchy Crunchy.. It looks like my clutches wore to a point that the side gears and spiders were not in full contact and overloaded the tooth ends and broke a few. Fortunately the R&P are fine so I am going to commit the ultimate sin and replace with an open carrier. I thought about an Auburn, but can't justify the cost on this truck. The most offroad it sees is my sand driveway.

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Note to self.. If you have clutch packs, inspect them often..
 
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