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Quicksilver

Sandblasting sounds like it would be the most consistent finish, so I'd lean towards that. What about followed by a matte clearcoat?
 
Sand blasting heats the metal and can warp sheetmetal. I would not take a chance on ending up with a wavey body surface.
A DA sander leaves a nice finish depending on grit of the abrasive paper.
 
How true !
I had to straighten the few pieces that were sandblasted.
Never had a problem blasting mild steel concerning warpage but this stainless tends to build up and store a lot more stress.
So I think I will reconsider having everything blasted.
Besides that would easily cost the most to have it done.
So now I’m leaning more toward random orbital or repair the highlighted brush finnish that it came with.
 
oldtime said:
is shown installed with length being uncut.
IMG_3309.jpg
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Where did the bung come from? Mines leaking, I'd like to order this hose and manifold bung
 
I guess if it were me, I would brush the body panels in a direction of your choice with a scotch brite pad. You could sand first and then brush. Easy to touch up scuffs and looks finished without going crazy.
 
oldtime said:
I random orbital sanded the bottom side.
Most of the top side and outer body was in good shape so I am putting that back to its original finnish.
Mirror finnish on the edges with a 220 grit straight grain finnish on the big panels.
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Was the original finish a straight line grain? In my mind I see the sun bouncing off of a mirror finish hood or body edge, blinding me, and sending me off of the trail into????
I like the idea of a straight grain finish. A straight grain could be achieved easily with a belt sander and touched up with a sanding block.
 
The original finish has polished edges and trim.
The underside firewall etc were basically unfinished,
The large outer panels that show are a straight grain finish.
Due to health I am barely able to complete this project.
I have realized that stainless can potentially be an endless project.
Since one has the ability to take on a mirror; A guy could literally spend years on the finishing work alone.
I certainly don’t have the time nor energy to take it to its full potential.
I just need to get it drivable so I can quit depending on my F-134 jeep.
I’m satisfied with the tub as it looks right now and will passivate it all tomorrow.
Hopefully have it permanently mounted on the frame by this weekend.
Then lots to assemble, all the instrumentation and things to complete like mounting the radiator and so on.
Also have grill, tailgate, hood, fenders and much more to work on.
 
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This is what i have as grain finish with highlighted edge:



This one is a mirror finish and had the square tube welded and finished ahead of time. It took one full day to finish and blend the two large horizontal braces:




A hood alone would take weeks.
 
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oldtime said:
The bung is “OEM hose to npt fitting” that was used on a lot of the Rochester 2GC carbs.
At the other end of the IH hose is an AC CV 684 ventilator valve.
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What fuel filter/strainer are you using there?

As I've found my carb to be extremely corroded and dirty, I'm looking into adding a strainer to keep water out. Does having the strainer just before the carb work better than, say just before the fuel pump? I know that fuel strainers are supposed to be mounted at the lowest point in the fuel system, at least on aircraft, but I'm thinking having it just before the carb might be better as it'll be conveniently located and easy to check on. I don't care about keeping water out of the rest of the system, I just want to prevent corrosion in the carb.
 
The fuel system:
Two separate tanks are the lowest points in the fuel system.
Outlet bungs on both tanks have a large 1/16” screen over the outlets. This prevents the fuel tubes from clogging up.
The 1/4” fuel tubes go to a mechanical tank selector valve.
I can switch to either tank or shut off both tanks.
From the valve I have a single 1/4” stainless tube going direct to the Dauntless AC 4827 fuel pump.
The AC 4827 was the final AC pump manufactured that was rebuildable.
The Dauntless fuel pump location is the second lowest point in the fuel system.
Because these pumps were rebuildable I have modified my AC 4827 pumps.
D91EF9B6-9CF8-469A-9A1B-94F1013B23E5.jpg

I took the new metal sediment bowl off and replaced them with the earlier design glass sediment bowls.
With this I can see if sediment or water accumulates prior to the pump.
From here the gasoline is pumped up to the Rochester 2G.
Fastened dierect onto the Rochester 2G I have mounted a NOS Carter ceramic sediment bowl fuel filter. With this I get an extra fine gasoline filtration just as it enters the 2G fuel well.
This way I can see if fuel is making it thus far along.
This all aids greatly when diagnosing fuel issues.
 
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