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Quicksilver

oldtime said:
The main intent of a fuel return line is to help keep the fuel cool as it waits to enter the carburetor.
I’m not worried about that and much prefer everything to be KISS.
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I've been thinking about the manual valve and a manual valve for dual tanks with returns. Gets a bit complicated with the plumbing and of course the valve is more expensive.

I'm probably just using two original style under seat tanks with mods to the starboard tank for the filler neck. Would be nice to have them connected in such a way that I could both from the original driver side fill location and also just have one gauge and no valves. I have several ideas bouncing around in my brain pan. None will be as clean and nice as yours.
 
Dave, I considered a fuel return line but don’t expect my fuel line will be near a notable heat source. I can add that later if desired.
If you want a return line you can simply dump the returned fuel anywhere into the tank.
AFAIK there’s no need for a special valve.
I used the most basic valve I could find to do the job. Weatherhead valve 6749 allows me to select each tank separate and feed them into a single line going to the mechanical fuel pump. So the valve lever uses 3 positions.
Right , Left and Off.

I have calibrated fuel send units for each tank. But only using a single gauge. I will use a single pole double throw toggle switch to read each tank separate.

This tub was originally built with dual filler indents. I figure a guy could fill both tanks from one neck but that creates a potential serious problem when the Jeep is on steep side slopes.
My design requires one to fill each tank separately.
 
My thinking on the selector valve with return ports is that you'd have to keep both tanks completely individualized in a 2 tank system. You wouldn't want to pull from tank 1 and return to an already full tank 2. The return should go to the tank that is being used. A single tank eliminates that problem but then create, possibly, the problem you mention with all the head pressure against 1 cap when on side slopes. I had not considered that. I know the old tanks are prone to leaking from caps to start with. See it pictures all the time and first hand from time to time. Might just be something I'll have to test and see what happens.

Link to the 6 port valve below. Cheaper version are available in plastic housed electric switches. I like manual dependability.


groco-fuel-valve-6-port-fv-65038
 
My fast and dirty thinking is to just have one return line into the drivers tank and always empty that tank first.
Only problem I foresee being that the excess fuel returned from the passenger tank will drain that tank rather fast.

That’s one expensive valve !

I suppose that if a person wanted to fill both tanks from one filler neck then they might install a fairly large volume (1”) shut off valve between the the tanks. Plus a top vent on oassenger tank to allow for trapped air to escape. That would eliminate the need for two filler necks and fuel caps.
The other option would be to simply have the tanks connected with a pipe between them and operate them as one single large tank.

I like the setup I have as it saves half my fuel should anything go wrong on one side. And side hills can only effect one tank at a time. I have a different style of locking fuel caps on these tanks and hope they do a better job keeping the fuel in. I found a pair that use matching keys.
IMG_3214.jpg
 
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oldtime said:
(1”) shut off valve between the the tanks.
Click to expand...
You will for sure have over-fill problems if you do connect the tanks. I Had a Road tractor truck with two saddle diesel tanks. Worked ok without problems on very level ground but you had to watch it closely if you parked it without shutting off the tank connector line valve.
Was a pain to remember to do, if you filled both tanks and parked it even off level a few inches it would leak around the low side cap.
What I did was replumed it, eliminated the tank connector line. Used two separate 3-way brass valves (much cheaper than a 6 way valve) mounted in the floor by the drivers seat side by side, One valve for the fuel pick up an the other for the return lines. With the two separate valves side by side all I had to do was make sure the pointers on them were both pointed the same direction at all times according to the tank selected so that the return went to the same tank that fuel was being drawn from I had separate fuel level sending units in both tanks with a toggle switch to check fuel level in them individually.
 
I thought this all sounded familiar. The B120's rear tanks are setup this way. Passenger side fuel filler, one inch pipe along the bottom to both tanks, valves at each tank, breathers on top though.

PXL-20210503-010630455.jpg
 
68BuickV6 said:
I thought this all sounded familiar. The B120's rear tanks are setup this way. Passenger side fuel filler, one inch pipe along the bottom to both tanks, valves at each tank, breathers on top though.

PXL-20210503-010630455.jpg
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Like that water faucet handle on the crossover valve. :bananatool:.
 
68BuickV6 said:
If you like that, you'll love the garden hose fuel line!
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I do, had one of those too. Also a boot lace fan belt once, and one of those old police car spot lights for a headlight. Both worked very well.
 
I like your solution Fogie. Seems like a good option as I already have (1) 3 way valve.

Sorry if I steered this thread off track a bit.
 
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Sorry to kick up the fuel tank sidebar again Timer, but where did you find your locking caps? I have a pair of saddle tanks tucked into the rear wheel wells that need new caps and have searched locally but haven't found anything without going to Amazon to take some stabs in the dark. The gaskets are shot so fumes leak/reek out, I suppose I could shoegoo another layer of rubber on but would rather just replace them.

Thanks!
Robert

PS: As plumbed from the original installation, my only return line runs back to the main tank (Initially surprised the heck out of me as the gas gauge kept going up when on an aux!). So I now I run the main first, switch to one ~5 Gal when it sputters and keep one aux for Oh $hit moments then start thinking about a gas stop. Currently only running the stock fuel pump and it copes well.
 
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Try Tractor supply or any old iron shop.

Auto zone will give you the wrong cap, O'Reilly gave me one that fit but the rubber seal distorted within a month.
 
For most of the unique (non Jeep specific) parts required to build; I search on eBay till I find the closest possible match for the task.
In this case I needed a push on style of round locking gas caps to look similar as the originals as possible.
I found several dealers with the same type cap and asked them to find a pair with matching key numbers.
I needed this style of cap because I am reusing the filler necks from a pair of original stainless Jewels fuel tanks that would not work for the modified tunnel area.
 
oldtime said:
For most of the unique (non Jeep specific) parts required to build; I search on eBay till I find the closest possible match for the task.
In this case I needed a push on style of round locking gas caps to look similar as the originals as possible.
I found several dealers with the same type cap and asked them to find a pair with matching key numbers.
I needed this style of cap because I am reusing the filler necks from a pair of original stainless Jewels fuel tanks that would not work for the modified tunnel area.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'm looking for the same style caps, as a kid I remember seeing them all over the place and now not so much...
 
In the meantime I have pulled the tub off the frame again. Hopefully this is the final time before the tub is fully ready for a permanent mount.


I completed drilling all required holes in the firewall.
Two for the wire harnesses, vacuum tube, oil pressure, temperature sender, heater hoses and mounts, choke cable, throttle cable, speedometer cable, steering column bracket etc.
IMG_3226.jpg


Also doing the final work on the braking system.
Filled system with dot 3 and bled.
Man those stainless tubes are hard to seal.
Had to crank down on all the flare nuts and fittings till they felt like they were going to break.
Anyway it’s done.
IMHO The dual bore system is MUCH harder to bleed than a single bore system.
IMG_3219.jpg


Then I got the parking cables installed and mounted to the frame.
Originally I was planning to route the two cables going the opposite direction.
But I found this to be slightly more direct and fool proof.
So now I will need to re-make my parking cable lever to be a pull style instead of push rod design.
IMG_3228.jpg

IMG_3227.jpg

I took the Rancho 5000 shocks off a while back thinking to change them out for better quality like Bilstein.
Also planning to change the spring plates for a set yet to be made of stainless steel.
I will use the ones currently installed on my next and final Jeep build.
Currently redesigning (simplifying) and fabricating a different park brake mechanism. Then I need decide how to sand, polish or finnish the tub metal.
 
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So my earlier park brake mechanism design was modified to make it operate a bit smoother.
I added a rack and pinion style pawl mechanism in place of the previous sliding lever pawl.
Then I went and actually hooked my brake cables into the drums and attached them to the frame crossmember.
Doing that I changed my mind about the park cable routing.
I opted for the most direct route possible.
This made my early “push type” hand brake lever obsolete.
So I needed a “cable pull” instead of “push rod”design.
At that point I decided to simply make a whole different lever assembly.
Here is a shot of my new pull cable lever compared to the initial push rod design with rack and pinion.
Those pinion gears were all hand filed to fit and were not operating quite as smooth as they should have.
But they were an improvement over the initial “sliding lever pawl” design.

With my latest lever design I went back to dimplified and much improved “lever pawl” that works VERY smoothly.
I am totally happy with my latest pull cable style park brake mechanism.
Here’s the old and new together.
IMG_3233af481e731c1243ce.jpg

This pic shows the inner pawl workings.


Here you can see the park brake cable equalizer that I designed to attach the cables to the pull lever.
Again old and new design with old equalizer at top.
IMG_3237.jpg

IMG_3238.jpg

Here is the cable ends and equalizer all hooked up to the lever pull rod.
IMG_3255.jpg


I had to cut 3/8” off the small narrow end of each fuel tank in order to fit the park lever in it’s. position.
Tanks are now welded and pressure tested to 20 psi.
Will get tank pics after I finnish them.
At present the body is still removed while I figure how I am going to finnish the body.
My retired sandblaster broke his compressor screw.
So ?????
 
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My initial plan was to install a NOS hard half cab onto QuickSilver.
So I assembled the running gear using my best set of rebuilt Mather leaf springs.
At present time I believe I will put a Tigertop on it.

So yesterday I pulled off all the rebuilt Mathers.
I replaced them with lighter leaf springs and conventional styled shackles.
The much thinner set of leaf springs is a NOS set of the old Super Lift springs.
I want QuickSilver to ride softer than any CJ I have previously driven.
Interestingly these Super Lifts have much thinner 5 leaf spring packs.
They have notably more arch than the original Mather design too.
But the unweighted droop and the ride height are exactly the same as the originals.

I needed conventional type shackles in order to fit into the Super Lift spring eyes.
So I made a set of standard length HD shackles from some stainless bar stock.
Up front of Jeep I added on a pair of tow anchors.
IMG_3258.jpg

I installed with my newly made stainless spring plates.
IMG_3250.jpg

IMG_3252.jpg

IMG_3259.jpg

Needless to say I enjoy fabricating with stainless.
Or perhaps I just don’t care to paint ?
 
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