Like I was saying; my intention here is assembling the “Best of Jeep” (1941-1986).
Why do I draw a line at 1986 ? Well simply put I am old school in my mechanical ability.
1986 was the end of the CJ line up and the era of carburetors.
You all know how Jeep really changed things in 1976 with full implementation of AMC parts and design.
Truth is that I find VERY little to be of interest after 1975 that can be of substantial benefit to the early model.
And almost nothing but common nuts and bolts are a direct interchange to the early models.
If you wanna talk about the “Central Standard Time Proven Jeep Design”, then I suppose I could diverge off onto that direction some.
For me that was an enlightening study.
A build up always starts with the frame.
Besides it’s simplistic body design; I feel that a 3A has a few other superior qualities.
Here the 3A frames simplicity and strength easily excel over the earlier Jeep models.
I believe it to be even superior to the near identical M38. For 2 examples; I have no need for the M38 frame tie downs nor the 3A spring pivots. 3-A frames use greaseable leaf spring mounting bolts and not common grade 8 bolts as is used for the M38 spring pivot.
The earliest 3B frames are also virtually identical to a 3A frame.
The 3B’s taller battery mount being the only difference.
And the 2 later versions of 3B frames offer no other real advantages.
Over the years 1949-1964 the changes are so few and subtle that all CJ-3A/B frames are essentially equal for useage.
That said when I scrutinize for fine detail nothing in my mind surpasses the quality of a 1949-1953 3A frame.
For the sake of argument I will say the CJ-5 frame is its equal or better.
In fact it does provide for longer length leaf springs than a flatfender frame.
Also it it uses what is likely a better frontal crossmember.
But here’s essentially my point.
While the CJ -5 frame can be forced into service under a 3A tub, it just does not fit right.
The body mountings will not align and the frame is longer at rear.
So if one simply must have the longer leaf’s of the CJ-5 then I suggest you cut off the 3A spring pivot and shackle brackets to relocate for longer leafs.
Me I simply don’t see enough advantage to longer leafs to consider hacking on the frames geometry.
In fact I come to find that I cannot increase the front spring travel due to choice of engine selection.
For me the point became moot.
Why put longer springs up front if you end up having to limit the stuffed travel anyway to avoid engine interference ?
A few comments on Metallurgy.
If I were building a vehicle of my own design and manufacture this topic would be of prime importance.
But this build is really about my accumulation of knowledge.
Specifically the knowledge of jeeps 1941-1986.
So for practicality’s sake I am using mostly all OEM assemblies and components and no choice is provided concerning what metal is best for any particular application.
Otherwise we might see a huge influx of exotics such as titanium, various grades of exotic steels like mangalloy, stainless steels, chrome molybdenum, aluminum. brass, you name it.
But in this case I am mainly concerned with tub/ body construction.
The realistic prefabricated possibilities are mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, and yes even a custom ordered brass construction.
Mild steel can rust and so basically must be painted.
Proper grades of stainless basically will not rust.
Aluminum must be painted if near salt. Saves weight but notable less strength.
So it requires thick gauges to compensate.
In the end it saves little to no weight if you value durability.
Brass is actually an option for the ultra rich.
However brass is a notably “soft” metal and so heavy gauges will be required in order to minimize denting.
I simply opted for the Jewels stainless because I had long been entranced by their reputation and product durability.
Jewels had long ago ceased production.
While other Phillpine’s stainless tub manufacturers have since attempted, no one has trumped the Jewels reputation of quality.
Let me put it this way…..
I will never be concerned with the Jewels hood oil canning or buckling in strong headwinds at high speed.
