1952 M38a1 Build: Not For The Purists

[jeepljeff]

You will be impressed by the uv5r. I've been using them for years. Very durable. And once paired with a decent antenna, they perform well.

It's a cool basic little radio. I've had a high-end Yaesu VX-5R Tr-band many years ago and it was more radio than I needed. I really wanted to get a VX-2 since it was cheap and tiny but didn't really have a need for one. I think the UX-5R Mini's about the same height and thickness but slimmer. It's also not $400. I was really looking at the Icom IC-2730b but that's pretty expensive for what I need. I'm not sure what the range is on this but I have pretty minimal requirements. It'll be mostly for listening to repeaters and trail coms. Maybe I'll consider something more upscale but I'm not sure just yet. The Retevis RT95s is popular and I was considering it but it's also $118. I did get the $39 UV-5R Mini kit since it comes with some stuff you can't even get by itself for some reason. Has two batteries, 4 clips, a silicone protector, two antennas and a dual PTT mic. It also only comes in emergency pink. Funny thing is after doing all of my research, I ended up getting the older 5 Mini when I wanted the new one. The new one is supposed to have better audio and the up and down buttons are vertical instead of side by side. Looking at the info in the actual radio and it shows it has the newer hardware. I think the only difference is the button panel. Strange that they have two versions of the same radio.

I like this build, perfect patina.

Thanks! A lot of people seem to like it. It's taken a lot fo work to make it look "ugly". I really want to get rid of all the red oxide though. I haven't even gotten to the back as the gas can and tire block it. I want to do is save as many of the markings as I can though. I did wipe out the maintenance marking next to the gas filler neck which was unfortunate. It was marked as 9th ORD CO DS 8-56 but it came off with the sanding and I could only get it though the ghost image water left on the paint. There's one other marking that I'd like to restore and that's the ,"This Jeep Cost $2133.00. Take Care of It" that was once on the windshield frame.

 

[Dave Deyton]

I really like the nod to the Jeeps history along with being capable and reliable


Dave

 

[givemethewillys]

That turned out great! Cool Jeep, I love the half cab on it.

 

[jeepljeff]

So after a few setbacks Advance Adapters got me all of the parts for the Saturn Overdrive.

Also bought a bearing and seal tool. Now I won't have to look for a large socket anymore. I have to say it's nice. I also got a Shars dial indicator and magnetic base so I could do the shims. Saw they get pretty good reviews from everyone and they're not too expensive.

Was a little worried about doing the bearings but they went in pretty easily. Especially with the proper tool. I didn't have a socket large enough.

The transfer case I used for parts only had four shims. Two 0.03" and a 0.01". The case I'm using is brand-old. I had to get a new case since I was going with Tera 3.15 gears. I was able to get a case from Sal over at Vintage Jeeper and I also got the Tera gears from him as well. I also got the tapered bearings done since I was getting everything else from him. So the only parts I was using from the old trasnfer case was both output housings, the main shaft as well as the front shaft.

Another issue I ran into was what I should set the bearing reload to? Number s are all over the place. Factory seems to have wanted 0.006"-0.008". Novak Conversions who rebuild a lot of them says 0,002-0.004". Then you get some guy's setting them up like wheel hubs with 0.000". Just to get to 0.000" I needed to shim it to 0.09" so that's three of the biggest shims. I ended up settling on 0.003-0.0035

Ran into a problem while I was setting up the shims. The outermost threads on one of the holes failed. Not sure what happened. The bolts are a little short and the shim pack was pretty big but it shouldn't have failed. It also looks like there's little to no chamfer. This happened after several attempts to set it up and torque it down. Found some 1/4" longer bolts and it seems to be holding.

Anyone else find these caps a real PITA to install? I used some 320 grit to smooth out the edges on the caps and it was still a PITA.

Also, since this transfer case doesn't have a parking brake, I'm considering using a front output yoke on the rear and get rid of the flange. Anyones else do that? The transfer case originally came out of a truck, I think, and had some weird old school yokes with a bolt that would hold a plate over the end of the yoke. I'm thinking that I might swap my rear Sidekick rear calipers for Ford Fusion with the electric brakes. I kind of of sat on the fence when I was initially buying them but now that I'll be running the Saturn, I need to room and I hate listening to by parking brake drag.

Another note. For some reason this transfer case has a flag speedometer gear. I didn't think the civilian Jeeps used flags. The transfer case had a 1-1/4" intermediate shaft so I thought it was a late model case. I thought it would have a square drive. Not a big deal since my M38A1 uses a flag drive but I had bought a new CJ speedometer cable to use.

 

[givemethewillys]

So after a few setbacks Advance Adapters got me all of the parts for the Saturn Overdrive.

Also bought a bearing and seal tool. Now I won't have to look for a large socket anymore. I have to say it's nice. I also got a Shars dial indicator and magnetic base so I could do the shims. Saw they get pretty good reviews from everyone and they're not too expensive.

Was a little worried about doing the bearings but they went in pretty easily. Especially with the proper tool. I didn't have a socket large enough.

The transfer case I used for parts only had four shims. Two 0.03" and a 0.01". The case I'm using is brand-old. I had to get a new case since I was going with Tera 3.15 gears. I was able to get a case from Sal over at Vintage Jeeper and I also got the Tera gears from him as well. I also got the tapered bearings done since I was getting everything else from him. So the only parts I was using from the old trasnfer case was both output housings, the main shaft as well as the front shaft.

Another issue I ran into was what I should set the bearing reload to? Number s are all over the place. Factory seems to have wanted 0.006"-0.008". Novak Conversions who rebuild a lot of them says 0,002-0.004". Then you get some guy's setting them up like wheel hubs with 0.000". Just to get to 0.000" I needed to shim it to 0.09" so that's three of the biggest shims. I ended up settling on 0.003-0.0035

Ran into a problem while I was setting up the shims. The outermost threads on one of the holes failed. Not sure what happened. The bolts are a little short and the shim pack was pretty big but it shouldn't have failed. It also looks like there's little to no chamfer. This happened after several attempts to set it up and torque it down. Found some 1/4" longer bolts and it seems to be holding.

Anyone else find these caps a real PITA to install? I used some 320 grit to smooth out the edges on the caps and it was still a PITA.

Also, since this transfer case doesn't have a parking brake, I'm considering using a front output yoke on the rear and get rid of the flange. Anyones else do that? The transfer case originally came out of a truck, I think, and had some weird old school yokes with a bolt that would hold a plate over the end of the yoke. I'm thinking that I might swap my rear Sidekick rear calipers for Ford Fusion with the electric brakes. I kind of of sat on the fence when I was initially buying them but now that I'll be running the Saturn, I need to room and I hate listening to by parking brake drag.

Another note. For some reason this transfer case has a flag speedometer gear. I didn't think the civilian Jeeps used flags. The transfer case had a 1-1/4" intermediate shaft so I thought it was a late model case. I thought it would have a square drive. Not a big deal since my M38A1 uses a flag drive but I had bought a new CJ speedometer cable to use.

I used a front yoke on my rear output, but I haven't installed a driveshaft yet to confirm it works as intended. It bound up until I pressed off the flange, as you mentioned.

 

[Fireball]

Another note. For some reason this transfer case has a flag speedometer gear. I didn't think the civilian Jeeps used flags. The transfer case had a 1-1/4" intermediate shaft so I thought it was a late model case. I thought it would have a square drive. Not a big deal since my M38A1 uses a flag drive but I had bought a new CJ speedometer cable to use.

You can get an adapter to use a square cable with the flag gear. I've got one in each of my Jeeps: https://www.ebay.com/itm/331379419165

I switched to a standard rear yoke on my DJ-3A. It will increase your driveshaft length by close to an inch. I was getting new driveshafts anyway, so the extra driveshaft length was not an issue for me:

This really isn't an issue since you have the truck/wagon output housing, but I'll add it for reference...

If you are using the parking brake output housing, the heavier duty yokes interfere:

You can see the difference in shape here:

I ended up trimming the housing about 3/8" and not running a dust shield:

And finally a comparison of the heavier duty yokes vs the ones you have. They are interchangeable, but there is a lot more meat on the heavy duty ones:

 

[cj2atruck]

when I swapped out the 4 bolt flange yoke, I also had to remove the dust cover, but had a non-ebrake bearing cap that was shorted. I was going to shorten the original one as Fireball shows until I found the shorter one upstairs.

It’s nice to have the 4 bolt flange yoke removed, as three lost bolts was my only issue on the Rubicon. One hole was damaged, so had to finish with only three bolts.

 

[jeepljeff]

You can get an adapter to use a square cable with the flag gear. I've got one in each of my Jeeps: https://www.ebay.com/itm/331379419165

I switched to a standard rear yoke on my DJ-3A. It will increase your driveshaft length by close to an inch. I was getting new driveshafts anyway, so the extra driveshaft length was not an issue for me:

This really isn't an issue since you have the truck/wagon output housing, but I'll add it for reference...

If you are using the parking brake output housing, the heavier duty yokes interfere:

You can see the difference in shape here:

I ended up trimming the housing about 3/8" and not running a dust shield:

And finally a comparison of the heavier duty yokes vs the ones you have. They are interchangeable, but there is a lot more meat on the heavy duty ones:

I did notice that there was a bit of a difference in the location of the U-joint but I'm hoping it's minor. I'm going to have to check it. I have a NOS stock flange but it's really tight on the splines. I think it's got cosmoline or whatever they used to protect it and it's gummy. I have two front yokes though. I don't really want to have to get a new rear driveshaft. I think it's probably fine since it's going to be a bit more extended. Just have to make sure I have enough spline. The only other issue which isn't really one is that the NOS flange doesn't have that seal protector. Worst case I put the old flange on.

 

[jeepljeff]

Side quest... Took a break on the driveline to mount the antenna for the HAM radio. Found some scrap pieces of steel that my Grandfather had that my Dad brought home way back when. Not sure what these discs were originally for. He was a Tool & Die man at GM and retired back in the '80s. These were some really nice stamped steel from some big punch. There were stacks of them. I had to figure out how I was going to use it though. First I thought about making it fit in that hole for the military MP48 antenna base. But then I thought that I should try to keep the MP50 bracket intact. So I ended up cutting the disk down to 2.5" which was 1/4" larger than the hole.

I spot welded it then started welding with a plan on just tacking it around the edges but I ended up changing my mind as it was taking weld better than I thought it would. I should have just welded it in two passes.

It's probably been a couple years since I've really welded anything. I'm using flux on a Yeswelder DP200. It's also better looking that a lot of the other welds on the Jeep from when it was in the military. If I sanded it it would probably look pretty good but I like looking at welds as it makes me want to improve. I left a little section open since it's a recess above and might hold water. Maybe it'll be a place for rusting later though.

 

[Fireball]

The only other issue which isn't really one is that the NOS flange doesn't have that seal protector. Worst case I put the old flange on.

The dust shields can be knocked off easily with a brass punch to move to another yoke.

 

[Howard Eisenhauer]

Side quest... Took a break on the driveline to mount the antenna for the HAM radio.

What antenna/rig are you running?

 

[jeepljeff]

What antenna/rig are you running?

It's a Retevis MR400. It's similar to their GMRS as that's what all the Auzzies like to run. I wanted something that would look beefy like the AB-15 that's actually supposed to go on the mount.

 

[jeepljeff]

IYKYK

Okay, I didn't even think about this till now. The big bore Dana 18 case doesn't have a threaded hole for the clutch pivot! I don't think anyone's ever mentioned it in any of the threads I've read. What's the solution?

My transmission is leaking from every orifice! I knew it was doing that the first time I replaced the clutch. I've heard it could have been the rear main seal but nope it's the transmission! Good thing too. I'd rather have a leaking transmission than have to deal with a main seal. Luckily the clutch has stayed clean.

Another issue I found was that the brand new bearing retainer is something like .10 thou too big. I have to hammer it through when the old one is a press fit. So I guess I'll forgo the new one and use the old one with a felt seal.

 

[Fireball]

Okay, I didn't even think about this till now. The big bore Dana 18 case doesn't have a threaded hole for the clutch pivot! I don't think anyone's ever mentioned it in any of the threads I've read.

They most certainly do! For example:

The large hole case in my '71:

The large hole case in my old '69:

And also the large hole case that's currently in my 63 DJ-3A:

Not sure what's up with yours. Maybe it's a D20 case? Not sure if all of those have the clutch provisions or not. Could also be from a Scout?

As for solutions that don't involve finding another case, you could switch to a 70/71 cable style clutch or the AA chain clutch (https://www.advanceadapters.com/4372) to get around the issue. Both of these solutions help prevent clutch linkage bind when the Jeep is all twisted up.

Factory 70/71 cable style clutch (from my '71):

Note that the transfercase bracket uses the clutch pivot bolt hole so you would need to make something a little different:

AA chain setup from my DJ-3A:

 

[jeepljeff]

They most certainly do! For example:

The large hole case in my '71:

The large hole case in my old '69:

And also the large hole case that's currently in my 63 DJ-3A:

Not sure what's up with yours. Maybe it's a D20 case? Not sure if all of those have the clutch provisions or not. Could also be from a Scout?

As for solutions that don't involve finding another case, you could switch to a 70/71 cable style clutch or the AA chain clutch (https://www.advanceadapters.com/4372) to get around the issue. Both of these solutions help prevent clutch linkage bind when the Jeep is all twisted up.

Factory 70/71 cable style clutch (from my '71):

Note that the transfercase bracket uses the clutch pivot bolt hole so you would need to make something a little different:

AA chain setup from my DJ-3A:

Well, mine definitely doesn't. I bought it from Sal at Vintage Jeeper so I figured I was good. I'm wondering if I can maybe make a bracket that bolts to the two bolts that the transfer case uses on that side. Frustrating since I was hoping to get it all installed this weekend.

 

[jeepljeff]

You can get an adapter to use a square cable with the flag gear. I've got one in each of my Jeeps: https://www.ebay.com/itm/331379419165

I switched to a standard rear yoke on my DJ-3A. It will increase your driveshaft length by close to an inch. I was getting new driveshafts anyway, so the extra driveshaft length was not an issue for me:

This really isn't an issue since you have the truck/wagon output housing, but I'll add it for reference...

If you are using the parking brake output housing, the heavier duty yokes interfere:

You can see the difference in shape here:

I ended up trimming the housing about 3/8" and not running a dust shield:

And finally a comparison of the heavier duty yokes vs the ones you have. They are interchangeable, but there is a lot more meat on the heavy duty ones:

Okay, I was ready to swap this BUT this issue came back to bite me in the butt! You're 100% right that the difference is about 1". Problem is the stock driveshaft only has about 1" of travel. That means if you pull the driveshaft out it's going to bottom out if the axle droops. I'm not going to replace teh driveshaft so back it goes. Also took the yoke nuts back out and put some RTV into the face of the splines.

 

[givemethewillys]

Okay, I was ready to swap this BUT this issue came back to bite me in the butt! You're 100% right that the difference is about 1". Problem is the stock driveshaft only has about 1" of travel. That means if you pull the driveshaft out it's going to bottom out if the axle droops. I'm not going to replace teh driveshaft so back it goes. Also took the yoke nuts back out and put some RTV into the face of the splines.

I was just thinking on this same conundrum today. I wish that rear driveshaft had a bit more travel; I really don't want to cough up the funds for a new shaft right now when I have 3 stock ones sitting on my garage floor.