1952 M38a1 Build: Not For The Purists

[Ol Fogie]

Cool video, enjoyed the variety. Thanks for sharing.

 

[jeepljeff]

What a PITA. Had an issue where I'd try to accelerate and the engine would just buck. Let off and it was okay. Turns out I had a leaking fuel line. I have been having issues for a while where the fuel pump screws would back out over time and would leak out from the diaphragm. I ended up pulling the fuel pump off and taking it all apart. Of course after I fixed that additional leaks started showing up. The M38A1 has a shut off valve on the fuel line after the hardline and it's using adapters to go from 1/4" NPT to 5/16" Flare. One of the issues I've had with the fuel lines are the fittings on the flares. The kit is imported and the nut has a tall taper before the threads start. So you're only getting 2 threads in before it bottoms out and I ended up stripping them. The other issues was that the shut off valve had a 1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT to 1/8" NPT to 5/16" flare on one end and a 1/4" NPT to 5/16" flare on the other. I really wanted to get rid of the 1/8" stuff and reduce the likelihood of a leak down by 1. You can't imagine how much of a PITA it is to find a fitting. I'm sure they cobbled this system together at a hardware store. What a PITA it is to find the fitting. I've got to special order one. Oh and to fix the fuel line nut, I ended up carefully cutting the end of the nut off with a Dremel while still on the line. After cutting it down it went right on and has 4 threads holding it secure. I'm not buying import parts if there is a US option anymore.

 

[compostwerks]

Here's a takeout fuel shutoff from a M38A1; eBay It looks good. Short money for the correct part. Even if you need to take it apart to replace the o-ring, it will fit your original equipment without all of those adaptors.

I'd put many takeout parts over imports and repros. They were built to last. There's so much junk out there.

 

[jeepljeff]

Here's a takeout fuel shutoff from a M38A1; eBay It looks good. Short money for the correct part. Even if you need to take it apart to replace the o-ring, it will fit your original equipment without all of those adaptors.

I'd put many takeout parts over imports and repros. They were built to last. There's so much junk out there.

I found this NOS from Midwest Military that I might pick up. They have the headlight bezels and retainers that I'm missing as well. Might also get a Data Plate and master plate as well since mine's missing. I haven't looked into how to apply the rivets though.

 

[Dave Deyton]

Have seen threads on applying those rivets in the G503 forum in the past. A search should bring them up.

Dave

 

[compostwerks]

Hi Jeff. As far as the proper riveting of the data plates, it's easy with the right tool. Pretty straight foreword. Happy to loan to you. PM me if you need them....Pete

 

[jeepljeff]

Hi Jeff. As far as the proper riveting of the data plates, it's easy with the right tool. Pretty straight foreword. Happy to loan to you. PM me if you need them....Pete

Where'd you get the tool? I don't mind buying tools. I've got a lot of rivets to do I think.

 

[compostwerks]

Where'd you get the tool? I don't mind buying tools. I've got a lot of rivets to do I think.

It's been some years since I bought my set....I have no idea Jeff...My offer stands. The info you seek is on g503.com, however the website appears to be down (once again). g503.com has has a few issues over the past several weeks....Pete

 

[jeepljeff]

Playing around with a new camera.

 

[jeepljeff]

Been chasing a gas leak at the fuel pump for a while now. I got fed up with gas leaking out the diaphragm seam so I pulled it apart and added some Loctite 516 gasket maker to both sides. I also had to do some arts & crafts with the fuel pump gasket to the block. It's only a year or so old and it was falling apart. I don't have a spare so out comes the paper stock. Used the same Locktite to coat both sides of the paper so we'll see how that works. The other issue I was having was that the brass fittings on the pump were loose and leaking as well. So while it was out I got those replaced and tightened up.

So what's next? Well, I've been sitting on this for months. My T90c conversion. I probably bought all of this stuff last year. The cluster gear is from Vintage Jeeper. I've had the T90 small parts kit for almost 2 years now. When I initially got the Jeep, I know it had a bad transmission so I bought a Master parts kit for it. Thinking that I was going to rebuild the transmission. One mone, then two then three had passed. I needed the Jeep up and running so that's when I got the spare T90a and D18 from my friends donor M38A1. So, I've this kit sitting ever since. Initially I was going to rebuilt it as a T90a but as time passed, I decided that if I was going to rebuild it I was going to make it a T90c. This made more sense since I was going to get a Saturn Overdrive. I still kind of wish I had gotten a T98 but this is a lot cheaper and I've got Tera 3.15 gears waiting as well.

So, anyway, I got a 3/4" wooden dowel that I cut down to the length of the cluster gear. Then it was time for some Youtube University. Seth of Redeye Garage had a nice video on tear down and assembly of the T90. I got the idea of using a cut down shaft to load all of the rollers on from there. Putting them on the down was a lot less messy then trying to load them into the gear with grease. 4 sets of 21 rollers and 6 end washers later it's all loaded onto the shaft.

Next up was choosing the T90 case that I'd use. I have three transmissions. One that's in the Jeep, the rusty mess that came out of the Jeep and a spare that came out of a Willys truck. The Willys was complete but it has a 226 input shaft so that would have to be changed out to use on a 134. I was really thinking about going with the 226 case but I cleaned and blasted the old case and it looked pretty good. I'd still have to disassemble and clean the other case. Not sure if I'll use the civilian shifter or the M-Series. I've still got to assemble the T90c and then I have to do the D18. I've been procrastinating and having other things to work on but I'm hoping to get this all done over Summer so it's all ready for next year's Vintage 4x4 Expedition.

 

[jeepljeff]

Well, I ran into a hick-up early on. Couldn't find the spacer for the main shaft. I had bought the Master rebuild kit almost 2 years ago and never really checked. Good thing I don't throw away much from the Jeep. I was able to look in the box full of rusted gears and find the spacer old It cleaned up nicely and went on. I really hate having to hammer on these press fitted parts but that's what most people have done I'm sure.

Had to figure out how to get the bearing onto the main shaft. Ended up using an old 2nd gear and a large socket to get the bearing on. Then I had to press the bearing into the new retainer for the big bore D18.

Good thing I've been double and triple checking my work. I made the mistake of using 21 rollers. 21 rollers will fit nicely on the dowel but the cluster wants 22 rollers. I've had to redo the rollers a few times as I figured out how to get it all inside the cluster gear. It's really easy to mess up.

 

[Dave Deyton]

Got to do this sometime. Have an extra trans and tranny to re-build and re-seal at a future date.
Mine both leave their mark. Some great information.


Dave

 

[jeepljeff]

The transmission looks so nice all cleaned up! Almost too nice to put in the Jeep. Now it's time to get back on the S18. I had partially assembled it just to mock up some parts but that all got pulled back apart. I has screwed up one of the 0-rings but I got a replacement from Advance Adapters. After getting it built, I noticed I screwed up and had to pull it all apart again. Managed to wipe out a seal for the shift rails while testing them as well. The seal is good but the spring was ripped out. So that will need to be replaced. I have to get a dial indicator so I can measure out the end play on the output shaft.

I order an Advance Adapter Saturn Overdrive back in January to take advantage of the 5% discount that had. I had gotten email from them telling me that there were delays, It was supposed to be made back in March then May then I didn't hear from them so I emailed them in June and got a call. They had issues with a supplier making the Tera bowl gears and were delayed several weeks. They recommended getting one from one of their resellers so I order it from Sal at Vintage Jeeper. After the call, I received the overdrive the next day! The bowl gear arrived in 3 days which was also pretty fast. Now I have to figure out how to put it all together. First the S18 with the Tera gears and then the overdrive. I have to figure out if I need a dial indicator or if I can use digital calipers. Also have to figure out if I want to use the later output with no brake or to use the A1s brake.

 

[jeepljeff]

Just curious what do people use to seal the bulkhead on their half-cabs? I was thinking butyl but I'm wondering if polyurethane seam sealer would be better? The only issue is that the back doesn't have a tailgate so it's got to drain out of some holes in the tub.

 

[compostwerks]

 

[Ol Fogie]

x2 on the Mortite

 

[jeepljeff]

Ordered some parts from Midwest Military since there's some things I can't get elsewhere. Finally got the headlight "doors" which are bespoke to the M38A1. Also got the retainer rings. The Rings were NOS and sealed back in December 1952 according to the label. I got the shifter boot since I wasn't thinking I'd use the M-Series but I did anyway. Got a matching lifting shackle and pin for the front so it all there for the first time. Also picked up a NOS rear output yoke though I'm not sure if I'll use it or not. I have two new fronts that I was thinking about using. Oh and I got 18 footman loops to replace the Amazon ones I got last year. The spacing on the amazon ones wasn't right but I made them work since I really needed them for the trip. Now I have the correct ones on there. Oh and picked up another seal kit for the D18 as no one had just the shift rail seals. Oh yeah, I also got a replacement DZUS clip as one of them broke.

Finally fixed the shift rail seal and made damn sure I didn't wipe it out again. Basically the seal inverted at some point then the rail pilled the spring apart. I'm not sure if I'll use the M-series transfer case plugs or the civilian just yet. I have the M-Series on the transmission but I'll have to see if I have both plugs for the transfer case. If not then no big deal. The civilian ones are a lot shorter. I also might end up going back and adding some RTV to the bolts that pass through the case. I forget which ones on the front housing do that. I know the two on the ends of the pan pass through. I have to wait on the rear as I've ordered a dial indicator. If you've been following my build you'll notive all of the blue drivetrain parts are gone and replaced with black ones.

Bought a Baofeng UV-5R Mini as I don't have a radio in this Jeep. I'm usually a Yaesu/Icom person but I didn't want to spend $500 on a radio. I have a Retivis HD antenna coming so at least I'll have that. I wanted a chunky antenna since that's what the Jeep should have on the Military radio bracket. I've got to make an adapter since the mounting hole is around 5" dia. though. I think it'll match up with the Jeep nicely.

I've had this Saturn Overdrive sitting in it's box since last month. I thought it had everything since it as all sealed but it looks like I'm missing a few parts. I had to get the bowl gear from Vintage Jeeper because Advance Adapter didn't have any in stock and their supplier had a machine fail and would be out for a few months. So Advance Adapter put everything together except for the bow gear but was supposed to supply everything but the gear. After a few emails to by contact at AA and to Sal at Vintage Jeeper it was sorted and AA is sending me the missing parts. So I should have a working overdrive soon.

 

[jeepljeff]

Wanted an antenna that would match the military's AP-15 base which is pretty girthy. Saw this on another guy's Jeep at the 4x4 Expedition and had to get the same. It's a standard 2M/70CM antenna. It's build like the GMRS antennas' the Auzzies and now Overlanders here use. I didn't want to spend a lot of a a radio so I went with a simple HT. It's by first Baofeng. I run a nice Yaesu in my other Jeep but it's only a 2M. It could have cost $400-500 to setup a new dual-band if I wanted to run a name brand. This Baofeng UV-5R Mini is pretty cool though. I like the reverse screen. Makes it easier to see. And with a $19 price tag, I don't really care if I lose it or it gets damaged. I have a magnet mount for it on the dash. I have to figure out how to mount the antenna though. I was thinking of using a 5" circular disc of steel and bolting it to the underside with the pre-existing bolt holes. That would leave the mount intact. The other option is to take the mount that came with the antenna and cut a disc out and weld it into the hole of the pre-existing mount. I don't ever plan on putting a real AP-15 on there and the mount is a reman anyway so I'm kinda leaning that way right now. Which way would you do it?

 

[Royal-a1]

You will be impressed by the uv5r. I've been using them for years. Very durable. And once paired with a decent antenna, they perform well.

 

[Rozcoking23]

I like this build, perfect patina.