1952 M38a1 Build: Not For The Purists

[jeepljeff]

Well, since I felt that I rushed to try to get the transmission bolted in,. I missed a few things. Mainly checking to see if the bearing had grease and to grease the fork and nose of the transmission. I was pretty sure the clutch bearing was greased as I could see clear grease from the little hole at the top but it was going to big me to no end if I didn't check.

The good thing is my order from 911 Motorsports came in. I bought the big plate which is exactly what it is. It's a transmission plate without any of the chains or brackets to get in the way. I was able to clamp it to the skidplate with vice-grips so I didn't have to worry about it sliding off either! Works out really great and I had the transmission out and back in in a couple hours. Problem is, I only get about 3 hrs of work time before it gets too dark and too cold.

The next thing was to get the clutch bellcrank rebuilt I had this bellcrank floating around in my parts pile for a while. I'm not sure who made it but when I went to use it, one set of holes was about half and inch out of spec. If I put the spring in, it would be at the lip of the tube. So, I had to make a decision. Reuse the old bellcrank or modify the new one. I check the old one and the long side was missing the spring and felt. It also had that elongated hole. So that wasn't going to work unless I wanted to fix it. That brought me to the repop. I ended up drilling a new hole and it seems to work. Maybe if I get some time I'll weld the old holes closed. I'll probably pick up another spare later.

So, that's about where I am. Doesn't look like I've done anything since yesterday but the clutch is almost hooked up and I'm close to bolting it all back in finally. Everything just finger tight as I had to unbolt the transmission crossmember to get enough room to install the bellcrank. I also ended up reusing the old bracket for the frame pivot. The new one is nice but the welded nuts on it are coarse thread and the old bracket had fine thread bolt and nuts.

If I was in a shop, I'd probably have this finished in two days. I'm taking my time and making sure I didn't do any major screwups. I'm hoping to get the floor back in by next week. I've still got to order a tow bar, too.

 

[jeepljeff]

Was able to bolt the bellhousing to the engine. Yeah, I left the top two bolts out. Finished with the clutch linkages. I'm not 100% how to adjust them. I have the clutch rod set to what the original rod was and then threaded in the clutch cable so there isn't so much slack in before the fingers meet the clutch bearing. Maybe I should have shortened the clutch rod and left the clutch cable longer? Probably doesn't matter. I made sure to grease all of the joints. Wire wheeled the transfer case shifters and clean up the shims. They would rattle at a certain RPM which was annoying. I hope they stop now.

I still have to bolt the rear driveshaft in and then I can start rebuilding the floor. Then I can take it for a test drive and hopefully not have to tear it back apart. Thought about pulling the interrupt out of the transfer case but I didn't need the extra work nor the additional leaking when it's sure to leak. I pulled it out of the other transfer case so I can have 2Lo when the hubs are locked. Oh and I need to bolt the crossmember back up.

 

[jeepljeff]

Here's the correct plumbing for the vent line which is pinched off In Jeff's jeep. It leads to a Tee right above the clutch cable on the bell house. I don't remember where this is directly connected to, but certainly tied into the PCV as part of the fording system (possibly the distributor, believe it or not). I can investigate further if anyone is interested. Full disclosure, not my pics. My 52' was never equipped with a fording system, but pretty easy to do so.

This is a pic of the clutch cable boot and shift tower boot and clamps, keeping water out of the trans/transfer. Sorry, Jeff, back to you....!!

Here's a thought. I'm wondering that since the transfer case and transmission have no breathers, that's why it's puking out the nose cone of the transmission? I've got a Civi style breather on another case that I'll probably throw on this one till I tear it all back apart. Does the transmission have a regular breather as well? I'll probably end up running a rubber line up above like on modern trucks and forgo all the hardlines.

 

[compostwerks]

Here's a thought. I'm wondering that since the transfer case and transmission have no breathers, that's why it's puking out the nose cone of the transmission? I've got a Civi style breather on another case that I'll probably throw on this one till I tear it all back apart. Does the transmission have a regular breather as well? I'll probably end up running a rubber line up above like on modern trucks and forgo all the hardlines.

The front bearing retainer on the T-90 is a common place for leaking. My recollection is that there's only a felt seal (about $3.00-$4.00), which should be carefully packed with grease. There are others here more experienced in this for sure, but I'd replace that felt seal before buttoning things up. There's also a paper gasket between housing and bearing retainer, but I doubt this will prevent leaking at all. I tend to doubt that lack of ventilation is causing the leak, but at the same time, ventilation of the cases is a good thing to allow natural expansion and contraction of a good quality GL-4 90 weight gear oil. The T-90 and D-18 have shared reservoirs, so no vent needed on the tranny.....Pete

 

[Howard Eisenhauer]

The front bearing retainer on the T-90 is a common place for leaking. My recollection is that there's only a felt seal (about $3.00-$4.00), which should be carefully packed with grease. T

I polished up the inside of the retainer and slipped some greased up o rings over the input shaft; with 3 there was just a little bit of a gap between the retainer & tranny before tightening things up. No signs of leaks & last time I had it apart the o rings looked great.

 

[jeepljeff]

Getting it all buttoned back up. Rear driveshaft is in and everything is going back in. I still have a few captured nuts that ripped out so I've got to figure out how to fix those. There are a few flag nuts that broke loose as well. The clutch game up on Xmas eve so this was the first drive since then and the first drive for 2026.

 

[jeepljeff]

Another issue. I've been told that I'm probably going to have to get chains. Where do I get chains for 7.00-16s?

I also need to order a tow bar. CURT, Reece, Vetor, HF, etc.. What are your recommendations. I just need something simple in case the Jeep breaks down.

 

[compostwerks]

Here are tire chains, made in the USA.

I wish you were closer, I have a nice old school tow bar that I'll likely never use. It would cost a lot to ship.

 

[jeepljeff]

Here are tire chains, made in the USA.

I wish you were closer, I have a nice old school tow bar that I'll likely never use. It would cost a lot to ship.

Yeah,. the problem is I'm on a pretty short time schedule. The clutch put me behind two weeks as well. I ended up getting the Vevor tow bar since I could get it in a couple days. I'm looking at chains too. Being able to use Amazon is a big plus. I still need some camping gear as well. The Jeeps gonna look like the Beverly Hillbillies when it's all packed up and that's with only me. All of my friends have a month but I've got 2 weeks because I'm going out of town.

 

[Royal-a1]

Same here, I have a tow bar I would give you. But utah is a bit far. I can say I have enjoyed your build.

 

[jeepljeff]

Getting some of the essentials done before I run out of time. Drilled a couple holes though my M38 bumper. Yeah, it's an M38 and not an A1 bumper. It already had a few non-spec. holes so I'm not too worried about it. I might end up cutting it more if I ever install a winch. I also wasn't too worried about drilling through any markings. Unfortunately the bumper markings on the front are vinyl stickers and aren't painted. There's no safe way to recover them. I'm wondering about the chains for the tow bar though. They're just loops on the ends. Seems kinda useless unless you have some hooks. Also, why are there two sets of U-bolts and the bar only uses the fronts? What are the rear ones for? I still don't have lights but I'll eventually get some magnet lights so I can stick them on the cab.

I bought some footmans off Amazon and they were a little small. I ended up bending them out and getting them to use the pre-drilled holes. I only paid $10 for a dozen of them and will need tie-downs for this trip in a few weeks. I may or may not replace them with correct ones later but I'm also not wafting to spend $20 per. either.

Also got some magnetic cup holders.

 

[Dave Deyton]

Looks like you found a way to upgrade that Jeep keeping the military heritage.
I like the magnetic drink holders and the Quadratec fridge magnet nice touch. Got a few of them in the shop on the fridge.
Getting that Jeep in great shape! Nice job making the new play well with the old.

I think a lot of adventures are in store for you and that Jeep in the future.

Dave

 

[jeepljeff]

Repop screwed me again! I had maybe 5 miles on the clutch when the cable pulled out of the sleeve and shot into the bellhousing. The fork then ran into the pressure plate and all hell broke loose! Now I have to decide if I need to order a new clutch kit. I have the old pressure plate so I could use that or just run the existing one...

 

[Howard Eisenhauer]

Well that just sucks

 

[Fireball]

Gah! That is so frustrating!

 

[3b a runnin]

Ah crap
I thought I was the only one with luck like that. 10 consecutive mechanical fuel pumps failed for me.

 

[Royal-a1]

I feel you. Nothing but frustration for me getting my motor running. Going on a year now. Must be a jeep thing. repeat

 

[Militarymetal]

I hate that! Relying on crappy parts hurts. Especially with all the time and effort it’s going to take to fix this. I’v been there. Sorry.

 

[jeepljeff]

So, the verdict is in. The pressure plate got hammered! I had to bend some of the ears back so I could get a socket in there. Lucky all of the bolts looked good.

The bellhousing got some wire brushing.

Found the ball end of the cable behind the flywheel. Would never have been able to fish that one out through the inspection cover.

Clutch looks good for having 5 miles on it.

This clip fell out of the bellhousing (I think) but I don't recognize it at all.

The flywheel has some nicks but looks okay. The nuts got beat up when the first clutch came apart and a spring got in there.

The tow bat paid for itself but man, I really need to set it up right. First time owning one. The hitch part isn't straight and does it really use those 4 small bolts to hold it all together?

I should mention, I'm 99% sure that clutch cable is Omix-Ada. I ordered a new one from Vintage Jeeper. I also got a new clutch with bolts from Ron Fitzpatrick. The same place I ordered one from last week!

 

[3b a runnin]

So, the verdict is in. The pressure plate got hammered! I had to bend some of the ears back so I could get a socket in there. Lucky all of the bolts looked good.

The bellhousing got some wire brushing.

Found the ball end of the cable behind the flywheel. Would never have been able to fish that one out through the inspection cover.

Clutch looks good for having 5 miles on it.

This clip fell out of the bellhousing (I think) but I don't recognize it at all.

The flywheel has some nicks but looks okay. The nuts got beat up when the first clutch came apart and a spring got in there.

The tow bat paid for itself but man, I really need to set it up right. First time owning one. The hitch part isn't straight and does it really use those 4 small bolts to hold it all together?

I should mention, I'm 99% sure that clutch cable is Omix-Ada. I ordered a new one from Vintage Jeeper. I also got a new clutch with bolts from Ron Fitzpatrick. The same place I ordered one from last week!

I really hate to say this but, I wish you better luck next time.