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1953 Off Road Rescue/recovery Jeep

When we make the trip between here and Fulton MO for the Fall reunion we get off of interstate 24 at Paducah KY and make the trip over to MO via state highways which goes through the Mark Twain National Forest. We stop over at Waynesville to visit with our daughter and her family. There are two very narrow and long bridges over a couple of those "Big" rivers where it feels like you are going to swap some paint. Last year there was a truck hauling to very large tractors with dual wheels coming across on the opposite side and the tractor tires hanging off came within inches of my truck mirrors.

We also use a route between Waynesville and Fulton that avoids the interstate, via Hwy 17 and US 54 which is a pleasant drive through the country. All I would have to do is plot a course from here to Paducah.
 
Out here in the West, the interstates have 80mph speed limits and the two lane back roads are 65 or 70. Not super conducive to long distance travel by old Jeep without being a rolling road block.
 
Fireball said:
Out here in the West, the interstates have 80mph speed limits and the two lane back roads are 65 or 70. Not super conducive to long distance travel by old Jeep without being a rolling road block.
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I've not had a problem going 55-60 on interstates. Sure a lot of people pass you (almost everyone), but you'd be surprised the number of cars that are still going even slower than you are as well.
 
on the note of being one of the slower vehicles on the road, I have been using slightly convex side mirrors on almost all of my vehicles, they give you a real good view of what's coming up behind you.
 
danielbuck said:
I've not had a problem going 55-60 on interstates. Sure a lot of people pass you (almost everyone), but you'd be surprised the number of cars that are still going even slower than you are as well.
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Interstates aren't so bad, it's the 70mph two lane roads without many passing areas where you end up being in the way of others.
 
Jw60 said:
FThat was my biggest issue followed by the amazing stopping power of 9" drums and there ability to randomly teleport you three lanes to the side when applied.
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That issue is entirely a maintenance issue, period. If in good condition and properly adjusted, the 9" brakes will lock all four wheels up on dry pavement and still leave you on your vector heading in your lane. BTDT Whether you could do that twice in a row is a different question.

I made quite a few trips in my stock 3B from Bozeman to the Denver area without any problems, about 700 miles. At least no problems until I tried hauling the smallest U-haul behind it. That did in the F head.
 
Looks like R+R will be getting a trailer ride out to the upcoming Colorado Fall Color Tour.
Never had a trailer queen before. Ha ha !

I have others interested in this Jeeps story so I want to get back to it whenever I can manage.
Still driving it as my sole means of transport and I have had zero mechanical issues with it to date.
In fact I have never done anything to readjust the engine ever since it was initially started. Remember Dependability is job #1.

Let’s see we are now ready to discuss
Group 19) Propellor Shafts

When I robbed the 1956 CJ-5 of its special T98-A modifications, I took everything that is associated with the optional 4speed installation.
However the 3B and CJ-5 have their distinct wheelbase difference.
So I was forced to custom fit my propellor shafts concerning lengths.
I simply cut the rear tube off at the yoke and shortened it to the required length.

After installation I tested the shaft for fit.
I found that the rear shaft was at maximum operable angle with the axle hanging at full droop using the standard suspension.
That was acceptable to me. But to achieve such steep propeller shaft angle of operation I had to use the late (longer) transfer case output companion flange.
See the difference here:
IMG_2351.jpg


Sorry I lost a lots of other set up and test pictures such as showing the propeller shaft angle at full droop.
Apparently I no longer remember my user name let alone the password for my former Imgur and photobucket accounts. What to do ?

If I recall correctly I had to cut the front propeller tube from its yokes and install a new longer front tube.
After tacking them up I did install and test them for runout using a dial indicator. And just like the originals they have not been balanced. In operation at speed I sense no abnormal driveline vibrations.
 
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Hi Ken!
I don’t want to suggest that I speak for the group, but would you please include a pic of your completed R&R with every installment?
Personally, I can’t get enough of it but I am a bit lazy, don’t want to scroll through previous pages. I would guess that most of the membership feels the same…
Just a PSA
Seriously now, love it! Thanks!
 
Yeah I have a few more pics of the complete Jeep if that’s what you like to see. I’ll try and upload a few recent pics as I go along.
Like these pics which attempts to show the telescopic boom fully extended and angled upward as high as it can reach.
IMG_2684.jpg

IMG_2685.jpg

IMG_2687.jpg

IMG_2689.jpg
 
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oldtime said:
Yeah I have a few more pics of the complete Jeep if that’s what you like to see. I’ll try and upload a few recent pics as I go along.
Like these pics which attempts to show the telescopic boom fully extended and angled upward as high as it can reach.
IMG_2684.jpg

IMG_2685.jpg

IMG_2687.jpg

IMG_2689.jpg
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That’s what I meant Ken, I don’t think I can see enough photos of your Jeep!
 
Willys Group Index 20) Front Axle

Here I install a D25 front axle assembly.
I like to start with one that has the hemispheres in good condition.
I polish them.
I am unable or at least not wanting to repair gouged out hemisphere’s.
The hemispheres received a double knuckle conversion. That conversion alone proves to be a great advantage when using a standard Ross steering system.
Then just to make it extra tough the knuckles got a button head conversion.

This assembly also got a fully rebuilt series IV Powr Lok along with original Dana 5.38 ring/pinion.
The axle shafts are good condition Rzeppa full floating shafts.
I much prefer Rzeppa’s for a couple important reasons. They are true constant velocity design. Instead of messing round with lube concoctions the joints can be packed with a high grade grease such as Mobil One. And they provide the greatest range of articulation at 29* turning angle.
This pic shows max steer angle clearance at 29* with STA 6.50 x 16 tires.
All parts used are original OEM including the old stock, deep stamped, made in USA Timken roller bearings.

1E8930B4-629F-463D-9838-32994DD0C279.jpg


Front seals are genuine nos Trostel.
6B3C796E-5E8D-4A7B-9E4E-FF667E22EEB4.jpg


It’s all topped off with a thick steel cover and the sandblasted housing was primed with Nason 2K epoxy.


Willys Group Index 21) Rear Axle

And just like the front assembly 100% of parts are OEM NOS that was acquired through very many years of searching.
6694EF5B-1EB8-4E81-B2CE-69DC49D7E4C2.jpg


Powr Lok clutches
01478A38-5A04-41E5-BED1-9CD126CF3D40.jpg


Remember the old leather seals ?
I do and yes they are excellent for use on tapered rear axle shafts. In my many years of real world use they way outlast modern neoprene for that application.
So Who put the rawhide in Chicago Rawhide ?
Or more importantly who took it out ?
 
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I have no idea where I left on on this thread but I’ll try and get it restarted.
As you know this Jeep is my one and only daily driver.
It was broke down for a day due to head gasket failure.
Best brand copper head gasket.
Read about that over here:
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/160754/#post-1883552

So when I pulled the head off yesterday my temp sender got stuck inside the head.
Wound up pulling the capillary tube tube off from the end bulb.
As the bulb was off I smelled something strange yet familiar.
Regardless I succeeded at soldering the bulb back onto the capillary.
But now after getting the Jeep back up and running good as ever; the temp gauge does not work at all.

After doing some reading last night I realized what I was smelling.
Seems ( I think) the gauge bulb was supposed to be full of diethyl ether.
Where do I find a tiny qty of this ether and how the heck do you get it back in there ?
Anyone here have experience repairing a capillary temp gauge.
Man have I got a job for you !
Here’s pic of an identical NOS bulb end.
IMG_3141.jpg
 
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Willys Group Index 23 Steering

Double TRE knuckle
Otherwise standard Ross system in VGC

I carefully aligned and adjusted the axles with proper toe in. This thing tracks perfectly with steering wheel exactly straight ahead and Ross box on center.
Initially the steering play was very tight. But after the FCT the steering has loosened up notably.
At the FCT I came to realize that any and every mechanical shortcoming a Jeep has will become manifest during seven days of the FCT.
Any Flatfender Jeep that withstands the full seven days of touring without so much as a loose bolt is ….one perfect Jeep !
During an all day trip up a railroad grade to see Hancock alpine lake my jeep vibrated out two of the crossmember bolts.
Otherwise Andy and myself had a near perfect seven day tour.



Willys Group Index 24 Brakes

When I put 10” self adjusting Wagner brakes on my 1953 3B I used a NOS Wagner standard single bore master cylinder.
Also used standard tubes all the way from cylinder to the steering knuckles.
At the knuckles one must change out the early “S” tubes.
In there place a set of “Z” tubes are installed and everything fits directly up to the 10” NOS Wagner wheel cylinders.


Willys Group Index 25 wheels

Wheels used on this Jeep are the typical standard. Kelsey Hayes 4.5” X 16”.

I bought this particular set of wheels many years ago from Midwest Willys.
Harry let me go through the big stack of wheels he’d had. In this big stack.
I found a matching set with zero rust.
Pulled those out and we then mounted them on a Jeep spindle to spin them.
We spun each wheel and found that all had less than 1/16” deviation from true.
A Very impressive set of old wheels to say the least.

The tires mounted are tube type 6.50 X16” STA Super Traxions.
Size wise I consider them ideal on a 4 cylinder Willy. But Honestly I expected much more from these tires concerning function.
As expected they are a bit noisy when on-road.
And traction seems fair to date but look at this pic. These tire chunked VERY badly during the FCT. Personally I feel this Jeep very much deserves a set of 7.00 X 16” NDT’s.

IMG_3161.jpg
IMG_3162.jpg


Other than two lost crossmember bolts this Jeep performed exceptionally well at the FCT.
Between the T 98-A, the Powr Lok and well chunked tires it performed so well that I never once used low range. Nor did I ever engage the front axle during the entire event. In effect it seems that it can travel in 2WD anywhere a standard flatfender goes in 4wd.
IMG_3029.jpg
 
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Ken my SOP before every trip is to lie flat on my back under the Jeep and look at everything to see if anything obvious is noticed. Then I put a wrench on every nut and bolt to make sure everything is tight and/or correct whatever condition is apparent.
I'm pretty confident you know the routine already and this was most likely a shakedown cruise for you.
Regarding the tire wear, even though 4wd may not be needed, it might prevent the tires from spinning unnecessarily.
In my opinion, it's just easier on the drivetrain. Obviously, several of the FCT runs are just easy, scenic cruises so 4wd is not needed.
 
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