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I've Got It Bad........ I Bought A 1975 Cj6!

Norcal69 said:
So here is the coolest part of my Summit trip!
I have been looking into exhaust options on this build for a while.
Cast iron exhaust manifolds would be my preferred route..... but there are no good SBC options that don't restrict HP or TQ in one way or another.
Second choice is a high quality set of ceramic coated headers.... but they are not cheap.
Novak offers very nice V8 CJ options and I have had a good experience with their V6 headers. Their Sanderson V8 headers however are $700 plus shipping.
Fast forward to my Summit trip over the weekend....
While waiting for my order to be pulled from the warehouse I wandered around in the Summit returns section. I was somewhat disappointed with the returns section until I noticed a separate shelf over by the wall that was loaded with headers. A shiny ceramic set of shorty headers caught my eye right off the bat. I scanned the QR code and pulled up the part detail.... they were the exact Sanderson headers that Novak sells for SBC conversion in CJ's!
The best part....... Everything was in the box and marked down to $180.



db7jSHJ.jpg
Click to expand...
I hate you
 
I'm jealous of your proximity to Summit! I'm at the Nicole and dime stage of my build, where I need a $20 part here and there. Shipping is killer! Exhaust is the last thing I need to address; the front-dump manifold isn't going to work. I've been considering Novak block hugger headers, but they're pricey!
 
givemethewillys said:
I'm jealous of your proximity to Summit! I'm at the Nicole and dime stage of my build, where I need a $20 part here and there. Shipping is killer! Exhaust is the last thing I need to address; the front-dump manifold isn't going to work. I've been considering Novak block hugger headers, but they're pricey!
Click to expand...
If you want max performance from a V6, Novak's block huggers in ceramic coat are the only way to go on a spring under rig.
 
Norcal69 said:
So here is the coolest part of my Summit trip!
I have been looking into exhaust options on this build for a while.
Cast iron exhaust manifolds would be my preferred route..... but there are no good SBC options that don't restrict HP or TQ in one way or another.
Second choice is a high quality set of ceramic coated headers.... but they are not cheap.
Novak offers very nice V8 CJ options and I have had a good experience with their V6 headers. Their Sanderson V8 headers however are $700 plus shipping.
Fast forward to my Summit trip over the weekend....
While waiting for my order to be pulled from the warehouse I wandered around in the Summit returns section. I was somewhat disappointed with the returns section until I noticed a separate shelf over by the wall that was loaded with headers. A shiny ceramic set of shorty headers caught my eye right off the bat. I scanned the QR code and pulled up the part detail.... they were the exact Sanderson headers that Novak sells for SBC conversion in CJ's!
The best part....... Everything was in the box and marked down to $180.



db7jSHJ.jpg
Click to expand...
Nice score. I was going to say brousing the scratch and dent section often pays off. And never take someone into the store with you that is in a hurry, if you know what I mean.
 
givemethewillys said:
I'm jealous of your proximity to Summit! I'm at the Nicole and dime stage of my build, where I need a $20 part here and there. Shipping is killer! Exhaust is the last thing I need to address; the front-dump manifold isn't going to work. I've been considering Novak block hugger headers, but they're pricey!
Click to expand...
I think it's $125 for free shipping. I often round up with some GL4 gear oil or something if I come up short.
 
I drilled and tapped the steering box for ram assist last night.
Once completed I flushed the box out and refilled it with ATF for the time being.
When the box gets installed I will run the pump with a drill and flush the box with the return hoses running into a bucket.
The exterior of the box is cleaned up and waiting for when I paint bulk paint multiple items.

b2QACfn.jpg
 
Moving on to the engine.
The intake manifold needed to be pulled for the new intake/fuel injection installation.
Nice and clean as expected.
Based on the Fel-Pro gaskets and silicone on the china walls, I believe the intake was previously removed when the engine block was painted.

fBZM6ZB.jpg


I was surprised to find oil puddled in the cylinder heads.
There was no oil in the pan and no oil filter adapter attached to the block.
It must be the original assembly oil puddled up.


AV79MXu.jpg



I went by my buddies engine shop and grabbed a oil filter adapter from his bin of core parts.
With the oil filter full of oil I installed it and filled the engine with some basic 10w-30 and 1 quart of Lucas Heavy duty oil stabilizer. This is the stuff that you see at the parts counter where you spin the gears and see how the oil clings to the metal parts. I added the stabilizer to keep everything lubricated after priming as it will be a while before the engine gets started the first time.
Priming and priming and priming some more.....
It took 3 drill batteries to get oil to come out of ALL of the rocker arm oil holes. I Found it interesting that odd number cylinder rockers all produced oil before any of the even sides were close.
#2 exhaust rocker was the last hold out..... I'm sure it has to do with oil flow through the block and that lifter/push rod/rocker being the farthest from the oil pump.
The engine was set at TDC and it has not been rotated in the 15+ years that I have had it.
Once oil was flowing to all of the rocker arms I was confident that everything in the engine had adequate oil supply. I then rotated the engine 90 degrees and primed the oil system again for 1 min.... and again until 180 degrees.... then back to TDC.
I'm assuming that the dark colored oil is assembly lubricant that pushed out first through the rockers.
I am resisting the temptation to install roller rockers on the engine while it is apart.......



TSdxvBU.jpg
 
The last of the differential parts should be in this week and then the axles can be dropped off to get built.
I traded an old forklift to my local axle shop in exchange for building my next 5 diffs..... its like I know I'll have more projects after this one.... :crazy:
Pinion yokes came in from Adams Driveshaft.
Forged yokes, U bolt style for 1350 U joints.

V7AB7n0.jpg
 
I had no plans of diving into the engine...... .
After talking with my buddy who owns the shop where I built the 383 for my Tahoe; I decide to upgrade the oiling system in the engine.
When priming this engine compared to my 383 build to this engine took 10x longer to get oil to the rocker arms. Strain on the drill was easily 4x greater than when I primed my 383 engine too.
The difference is the Melling Shark Tooth oil pump that I put in the 383 engine vs the Melling M155 pump that comes standard in many engines.
In addition to moving more oil with less strain on the cam/distributor gears, the Shark pump uses a bolt on oil pickup tube that is less prone to have issues in abusive environments.

Interesting marks from assembly at the factory.

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bSQNGSs.jpg
 
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