I've Got It Bad........ I Bought A 1975 Cj6!
- Thread starter Norcal69
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2014
Is it overkill? Yes, but you can stop worrying, so it's worth it.Tim wasn't kidding when he said the 1-1/2" 35 spline axles were beefy..... They are huge!
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2008
They are beefy, didn’t worry once about mine on this years trip.
Norcal69
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- Joined
- Sep 6, 2014
I harvested all of the good parts off of the bent D44 rear housing last night.
The housing was so bent, the passenger side axle would not come out. No amount of beating/hammering would budge it.
I slid a pry bar down the opposite side and hit on the end of the shaft..... still no luck.
It can't be stuck if it's liquid right?
With the axle tube cut off, the axle shaft slid right out.
I had a buyer on standby for the brake assemblies so they became cash on the spot.
The rest of the good parts were harvested from the axle.
ARB with 4.88 R&P is going into the front axle housing. Ring and pinion looked to be a fairly new Yukon set. ARB needs a good cleaning and a set of seals for good measure.
Anti wrap bar bracket came off with the liquification wrench fairly quickly. It will get cleaned up and go on the rear D60.
The housing was so bent, the passenger side axle would not come out. No amount of beating/hammering would budge it.
I slid a pry bar down the opposite side and hit on the end of the shaft..... still no luck.
It can't be stuck if it's liquid right?
With the axle tube cut off, the axle shaft slid right out.
I had a buyer on standby for the brake assemblies so they became cash on the spot.
The rest of the good parts were harvested from the axle.
ARB with 4.88 R&P is going into the front axle housing. Ring and pinion looked to be a fairly new Yukon set. ARB needs a good cleaning and a set of seals for good measure.
Anti wrap bar bracket came off with the liquification wrench fairly quickly. It will get cleaned up and go on the rear D60.
Norcal69
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- Joined
- Sep 6, 2014
The rear D60 is fully stripped and ready to be cleaned/rebuilt.
Having never played with a D60 before, it is mind boggling how much beefier the axle is.
D44 left, D60 right
It's a good thing I picked up the rear D60.....
I spent a decent amount of time running around in a 258 powered CJ5 earlier this summer.
While it moved fast enough for a jeep it left allot to be desired and my odd fire powered 5 would easily out run it.
Maybe I didn't flog it hard enough......
Who knows.....
This CJ6 will likley be close to 5k lbs when fully loaded for a Rubicon trip, I cannot imagine being satisfied with a 258 turning 37" tires while trying to pull Echo Summit.
I have spent an embarrassing amount of time waffling about what engine to use in this project.
A couple of barley sodas and a pep talk from a few guys here helped me make an executive decision.
This GM crate engine is a ZZ4 350 that is rated at 355hp and 405tq. Known for long life reliability and easy customization, this engine was GM's flagship crate motor for many years.
I purchased two of these engines at an estate auction around 15 years ago and they have been sitting under the bench ever since.
Having never played with a D60 before, it is mind boggling how much beefier the axle is.
D44 left, D60 right
It's a good thing I picked up the rear D60.....
I spent a decent amount of time running around in a 258 powered CJ5 earlier this summer.
While it moved fast enough for a jeep it left allot to be desired and my odd fire powered 5 would easily out run it.
Maybe I didn't flog it hard enough......
This CJ6 will likley be close to 5k lbs when fully loaded for a Rubicon trip, I cannot imagine being satisfied with a 258 turning 37" tires while trying to pull Echo Summit.
I have spent an embarrassing amount of time waffling about what engine to use in this project.
A couple of barley sodas and a pep talk from a few guys here helped me make an executive decision.
This GM crate engine is a ZZ4 350 that is rated at 355hp and 405tq. Known for long life reliability and easy customization, this engine was GM's flagship crate motor for many years.
I purchased two of these engines at an estate auction around 15 years ago and they have been sitting under the bench ever since.
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2008
It will be good to use that motor for this. Had a k30 on the farm with a targetmaster 350 running a performer intake, HEI, and some sort of carburetor (eldebrock?) in front of a sm465... good times.The rear D60 is fully stripped and ready to be cleaned/rebuilt.
Having never played with a D60 before, it is mind boggling how much beefier the axle is.
D44 left, D60 right
It's a good thing I picked up the rear D60.....
I spent a decent amount of time running around in a 258 powered CJ5 earlier this summer.
While it moved fast enough for a jeep it left allot to be desired and my odd fire powered 5 would easily out run it.
Maybe I didn't flog it hard enough......
This CJ6 will likley be close to 5k lbs when fully loaded for a Rubicon trip, I cannot imagine being satisfied with a 258 turning 37" tires while trying to pull Echo Summit.
I have spent an embarrassing amount of time waffling about what engine to use in this project.
A couple of barley sodas and a pep talk from a few guys here helped me make an executive decision.
This GM crate engine is a ZZ4 350 that is rated at 355hp and 405tq. Known for long life reliability and easy customization, this engine was GM's flagship crate motor for many years.
I purchased two of these engines at an estate auction around 15 years ago and they have been sitting under the bench ever since.
Is that a 2pc rear main and flat tappet block?
Norcal69
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- Joined
- Sep 6, 2014
1pc rear main, 4 bolt main caps, factory roller lifter block.
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2014
I look forward to seeing that mocked up with trans and transfer. You should have miles of room with a long hood, long wheelbase.
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2014
You going to DIY it, or send it out?Scored a low mileage (100k) YJ steering box today from rig that was a bone stock motor home toad.
This will get drilled and tapped for ram assist.
Norcal69
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- Joined
- Sep 6, 2014
This is a budget build after all.......
I have the drill and taps (2) left over from when I ported the boxes on my jeep and Steve's jeep.
Redhead wanted over $500 plus shipping to rebuild the box and add the ports.
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2008
This is a budget build after all.......
I have the drill and taps (2) left over from when I ported the boxes on my jeep and Steve's jeep.
Redhead wanted over $500 plus shipping to rebuild the box and add the ports.
supertrooper
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2007
I drilled and tapped my on the jeep. Was pretty easy. Ryans tip about using a magnet to pull the shavings out worked great. Btw how are your tie rod ends holding up? I have 2 rubicon trips with ram assist and the tres are pretty worn. Thinking of going to bigger chevy tresThis is a budget build after all.......
I have the drill and taps (2) left over from when I ported the boxes on my jeep and Steve's jeep.
Redhead wanted over $500 plus shipping to rebuild the box and add the ports.
Norcal69
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- Joined
- Sep 6, 2014
My stock jeep size tie rod ends were changed right before this years Rubicon trip. I think they had 6 trips on them plus 10k or so miles.
They were still usable and went into the spare parts box, but I didn't like them due to the 2 piece stud/ball design.
I upgraded to Moog 1 piece ball/stud units.
Norcal69
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- Sep 6, 2014
I made a trip over to Summit to pick up a bunch of parts for the build.
I am using the stock NV4500 hydraulic release bearing assembly and clutch master cylinder.
All off the shelf parts for a 1996-2000 Chevy 2500/3500 pickup that are known for going 200K miles without issue.
This adapter allows the use of AN hose rather than the stock plastic line.
Like Uncle Tim says.... "Parts you already have don't count."
I had this marine high torque starter on the shelf... so into the soup it goes... It is a made in USA unit!
The flywheel is a Hays billet steel 33LB unit that I picked up from Speedway for 50% off since it was a return.
Splurged and picked up some ARP flywheel bolts.
Flywheel installed last night.
Roller pilot bearing installed.
12" diameter clutch listed for 96-2000 BB Chevy 454 powered truck.
LuK..... is the brand, enough said.
Splurged again on ARP clutch pressure plate bolts.
This clutch came factory on the 410 Ft/LB rated 7.4L GM trucks which is pretty much the same as what this engine puts out.
It should also be just fine for some future engine upgrades if necessary.
I am using the stock NV4500 hydraulic release bearing assembly and clutch master cylinder.
All off the shelf parts for a 1996-2000 Chevy 2500/3500 pickup that are known for going 200K miles without issue.
This adapter allows the use of AN hose rather than the stock plastic line.
Like Uncle Tim says.... "Parts you already have don't count."
I had this marine high torque starter on the shelf... so into the soup it goes... It is a made in USA unit!
The flywheel is a Hays billet steel 33LB unit that I picked up from Speedway for 50% off since it was a return.
Splurged and picked up some ARP flywheel bolts.
Flywheel installed last night.
Roller pilot bearing installed.
12" diameter clutch listed for 96-2000 BB Chevy 454 powered truck.
LuK..... is the brand, enough said.
Splurged again on ARP clutch pressure plate bolts.
This clutch came factory on the 410 Ft/LB rated 7.4L GM trucks which is pretty much the same as what this engine puts out.
It should also be just fine for some future engine upgrades if necessary.
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2014
I love a good trip to Summit
Norcal69
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- Joined
- Sep 6, 2014
So here is the coolest part of my Summit trip!
I have been looking into exhaust options on this build for a while.
Cast iron exhaust manifolds would be my preferred route..... but there are no good SBC options that don't restrict HP or TQ in one way or another.
Second choice is a high quality set of ceramic coated headers.... but they are not cheap.
Novak offers very nice V8 CJ options and I have had a good experience with their V6 headers. Their Sanderson V8 headers however are $700 plus shipping.
Fast forward to my Summit trip over the weekend....
While waiting for my order to be pulled from the warehouse I wandered around in the Summit returns section. I was somewhat disappointed with the returns section until I noticed a separate shelf over by the wall that was loaded with headers. A shiny ceramic set of shorty headers caught my eye right off the bat. I scanned the QR code and pulled up the part detail.... they were the exact Sanderson headers that Novak sells for SBC conversion in CJ's!
The best part....... Everything was in the box and marked down to $180.
I have been looking into exhaust options on this build for a while.
Cast iron exhaust manifolds would be my preferred route..... but there are no good SBC options that don't restrict HP or TQ in one way or another.
Second choice is a high quality set of ceramic coated headers.... but they are not cheap.
Novak offers very nice V8 CJ options and I have had a good experience with their V6 headers. Their Sanderson V8 headers however are $700 plus shipping.
Fast forward to my Summit trip over the weekend....
While waiting for my order to be pulled from the warehouse I wandered around in the Summit returns section. I was somewhat disappointed with the returns section until I noticed a separate shelf over by the wall that was loaded with headers. A shiny ceramic set of shorty headers caught my eye right off the bat. I scanned the QR code and pulled up the part detail.... they were the exact Sanderson headers that Novak sells for SBC conversion in CJ's!
The best part....... Everything was in the box and marked down to $180.