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Woodstock

i had to divert my attention to my M37 today. I have put this off long enough. The old girl needs a fuel pump, possibly the first one ever. I have owned it since 1987, and I have never replaced one. So, I got one from my friend John B. at Midwest Military, and spent a few hours getting the pump installed, primed, and running this morning. Now I can move on with Woodstock.
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Getting the left side tuned up and primed is the highest priority today. Some bodywork, some filler, and it is good enough for now. This might be the last 2K primer, or paint for that matter, for this round. Yes, it will be temporarily multi-color, but I'd rather be camping and drinking beer this summer than worrying about how it looks.
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So, I don't have a lot to show, but this opens up a lot of assembly. Left rocker, roll cage final bolting, seats, and more. Testing at Twin Peaks next weekend.
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i had to divert my attention to my M37 today. I have put this off long enough. The old girl needs a fuel pump, possibly the first one ever. I have owned it since 1987, and I have never replaced one. So, I got one from my friend John B. at Midwest Military, and spent a few hours getting the pump installed, primed, and running this morning. Now I can move on with Woodstock.
IMG_9062.jpeg

Getting the left side tuned up and primed is the highest priority today. Some bodywork, some filler, and it is good enough for now. This might be the last 2K primer, or paint for that matter, for this round. Yes, it will be temporarily multi-color, but I'd rather be camping and drinking beer this summer than worrying about how it looks.
IMG_9058.jpeg

So, I don't have a lot to show, but this opens up a lot of assembly. Left rocker, roll cage final bolting, seats, and more. Testing at Twin Peaks next weekend.
IMG_9061.jpeg

Still making great progress.
 
Looking at the storage space. I am hoping the contents of my big heavy box of parts is going to fit in the new driver side box. Math and cubic inches says it will. First, I want some padding in here.
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Some diamond tread rubber that is fairly thin, will do both boxes.
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It's only going to be this clean once.
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The passenger side box, which is now 4 inches longer, is for tools. I am going to swap that big heavy snatch block for a donut since I have synthetic rope now.
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And, most importantly, the cage is finally bolted in, through the sides and fender wells. I am going to add frame tie-ins.
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Slight setback. The Trailblazer intake, that I stupidly decided to use because it is hair shorter, has been nothing but problems. Namely leaking fuel. I gave it a few tries, but lost patience, and don't have time to mess around, so out it comes.
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I am going to install the truck intake that came with the motor. TBSS on the right, truck on the left. This means I may need a new throttle body, because 3 bolt vs. 4 bolt patterns on the 2.
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Then I discovered this, a 75 mm to 92 mm adapter that will let me retain the cable throttle body I have.
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Throttle body switched over.
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I did have to buy a new Holley injector harness, because the injector connectors are different, of course. When I realized I could get this stuff same day from Summit in Sparks, this became what I had to do. Move on, move forward, learn from my mistakes.
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Some random, but necessary stuff. The ARB fridge got a test fit. It now sits lower and there is an actual gap between the fridge and the driver seat. I might be able to get a beer without climbing up on the tire.
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This will be so much better. The ARB needs some air for the compressor to work correctly, so I space it out from the fender well, and the box that sits next to it.
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What else? The 5 gauges are done. And it looks like the GPS speedo is getting signal in the garage. I'm about 50' above Lake Tahoe 6226' level.
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Seats in and done. They both tumble forward, and have a spring latch. The latches are a little tight, but I'd rather have them tight, than rattling.
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I moved the parts boxes out of Nick's jeep to start looking at cargo. The box on the left will go away, and the contents will go to the driver seat box. The box on the right will stay, but will get some relief, because I am moving all welding supplies to an easily accessible bag. We unloaded too may times last year for welding, so keeping it on top will help.
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I said I would drive it by this weekend, and somehow, with all the other outside forces working against me, it is drivable. I worked this morning on some tuning issues, and found out that Holley software doesn't recognize Apple products, i.e., my laptop. So, I decided that one of the biggest reasons I bought the Terminator X, is because it comes with a hand held touch screen, and I can use that for the adjustments I want to make. So, a little youtube university, and I made the adjustments necessary, and deemed it ready to try a drive. To back up, there were about 25 items on my list to make it drivable, and I got through most of that first. Small stuff, like seat belts, tie up wiring, body mounts, stuff like that. Then a drive around the block, and I didn't have to walk home, so that was good. Then I got adventurous, and headed into a trail that is a few blocks from my house. It's running good, shifts, 4wd works, overdrive works, no bad noises. I stretched it on a rock to see how it looks.
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These spring-overs have a lot of flex, and I think this jeep will come down another 3" affter some driving and wheeling with a load of beer and cast iron cookware. On flat ground, it's sitting at 31" under the rocker. Nick's is 28" with the same springs, so we'll see.
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I don't think the rear is flexing as much, the frame is 7" wider, so the pivot points are further out. And there is no weight in it. Once the spare tire rack and gear is in it, I think it will stuff more. This gives me an idea of what my bump stops need to be, but I really need to take it to a real trail to flex it. Tomorrow, I hope.
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I said I would drive it by this weekend, and somehow, with all the other outside forces working against me, it is drivable. I worked this morning on some tuning issues, and found out that Holley software doesn't recognize Apple products, i.e., my laptop. So, I decided that one of the biggest reasons I bought the Terminator X, is because it comes with a hand held touch screen, and I can use that for the adjustments I want to make. So, a little youtube university, and I made the adjustments necessary, and deemed it ready to try a drive. To back up, there were about 25 items on my list to make it drivable, and I got through most of that first. Small stuff, like seat belts, tie up wiring, body mounts, stuff like that. Then a drive around the block, and I didn't have to walk home, so that was good. Then I got adventurous, and headed into a trail that is a few blocks from my house. It's running good, shifts, 4wd works, overdrive works, no bad noises. I stretched it on a rock to see how it looks.
IMG_9090.jpeg

These spring-overs have a lot of flex, and I think this jeep will come down another 3" affter some driving and wheeling with a load of beer and cast iron cookware. On flat ground, it's sitting at 31" under the rocker. Nick's is 28" with the same springs, so we'll see.
IMG_9091.jpeg

I don't think the rear is flexing as much, the frame is 7" wider, so the pivot points are further out. And there is no weight in it. Once the spare tire rack and gear is in it, I think it will stuff more. This gives me an idea of what my bump stops need to be, but I really need to take it to a real trail to flex it. Tomorrow, I hope.
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:bananatool:
 
Looks Great!! So far the only weak point I've found on mine is the D18. I've broken it twice. But to be fair, I think part of the issue is the d&$n thing won't stop leaking and I think I ran it low and it got overheated. The 5.3 is a great motor in the early Jeeps. Just takes a bit of creativity to get everything to fit. Good to see you found the Cobra Head intake 90. There are some other tricks that can be done with the damper and accessories to shorten the motor up. I didn't have any problems with my TBSS intake, but it's not like we really need the extra power.

Mike
 
More testing today. I need to drive it as much as possible for many reasons. One is that the Terminator needs to learn. I'm not sure what I'm teaching it, but it seems to be better every time I run it. Next is Twin Peaks, about a 5 mile highway trip, then any level of 4 wheeling I want. Today, I'm just going to the top to flex on my favorite rock. I'll come back for some crawling later. I got it up to 60 on the way, and that didn't take much. The brakes are unbelievable, and I should have done a hydroboost years ago.
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I ran in 4 low at a high rpm all the way to the top. It just touched 180, so feeling good about cooling. I want to flex to get my bumpstops figured out. Of course I forgot a tape measure.
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The rear shocks are rubbing the tire, so I will need to change that. This about full bump.
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This where I will put the bump for the front, to keep the tire out of the fender.
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I improvised a tape measure. I have one for front, one for rear.
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I worked all day and only took 2 photos. One is good, one is bad. First, I need to d rive it, so I went for a 30 mile run to the top of Luther pass and back. The good-it runs great at 55-60, 3000rpm in direct, 2000 in OD. It will pull the pass in OD no problem. Reached the top of the pass and it just touched 180 degrees, so cooling is still good.
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The bad-it started making bad gear noises on the way back. When I got home it wouldn't stay in second gear. I pulled the top to look at any shifter (wishful) issues, compared it to 2 other SM420's I have. I see no issue, until I noticed the mainshaft will move about 50 thou forward and back. Not good, and I think that would explain the jumping out of gear issue. I next pulled the OD, it was tight. Pulled the transfer case. I am thinking something with the adapter/spud shaft.
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I worked all day and only took 2 photos. One is good, one is bad. First, I need to d rive it, so I went for a 30 mile run to the top of Luther pass and back. The good-it runs great at 55-60, 3000rpm in direct, 2000 in OD. It will pull the pass in OD no problem. Reached the top of the pass and it just touched 180 degrees, so cooling is still good.
IMG_9118.jpeg

The bad-it started making bad gear noises on the way back. When I got home it wouldn't stay in second gear. I pulled the top to look at any shifter (wishful) issues, compared it to 2 other SM420's I have. I see no issue, until I noticed the mainshaft will move about 50 thou forward and back. Not good, and I think that would explain the jumping out of gear issue. I next pulled the OD, it was tight. Pulled the transfer case. I am thinking something with the adapter/spud shaft.
IMG_9121.jpeg

When I replaced my t-90 mainshaft the A-A mainshaft had an issue and i had to make a special washer for the D18 bull gear because the overdrive would pull tight to the internal nut but the bull gear splines allowed it to float under the nut.
 
When I replaced my t-90 mainshaft the A-A mainshaft had an issue and i had to make a special washer for the D18 bull gear because the overdrive would pull tight to the internal nut but the bull gear splines allowed it to float under the nut.
Bingo. I think that may be exactly what is going on. I will get a dial indicator in there tomorrow after work to see what I need.
 
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