- Joined
- Feb 9, 2018
You shouldn't need a bell crank. This is how far from the pedal pivot a stock '71 clutch cable is:
It provides plenty of travel to operate the clutch with acceptable effort.
Willys Wagon
- Thread starter Jon B.
- Start date
You shouldn't need a bell crank. This is how far from the pedal pivot a stock '71 clutch cable is:
It provides plenty of travel to operate the clutch with acceptable effort.
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2013
I fitted at 70-71 long cj style clutch cable on my 58 wagon, and it works fine. But I am using the OEM through the floor pedals - the OEM clutch linkage was all removed due to sbcv8/sm465 swap. But I am not sure the cable system would work with hanging pedals. If I were to go hanging pedals, I'd go hydraulic clutch....at least for SBC stuff, AA and Novak make slave cylinders that mount onto the bell housing.
duffer
Rodent Power, Bozeman, Montana
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2009
On a sbc,s it's really easy to make your own bracket that just bolts on the bellhousing bolts. Early XJ slave cylinder.
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2022
I got the pre-assembly and adjustment done for the brake & clutch master cylinders. The pedals both needed some tweaking to mate with the MCs, but it went well.
Both MCs are Wilwood units, as is the clutch slave cylinder. I’ll use a flex line for the clutch, and bend and flare the brake lines - lots of flares, as there’s a proportioning valve and a residual pressure valve for the brakes.
I had to shorten the brake MC pushrod and cut an inch or so of new threads, but that went well. I threaded it first, then cut it.
Upside down, the setup looks like this:
The slave cylinder will mount on top of the transmission crossmember, and looks thus:
The cylinder is a “pull” type, hence the flex line. The mount was for the rocker shaft from the old mechanical linkage but has been cut and welded upon.
I’ll hang everything in its place for final fit & function, then tear it all apart for painting. Do the Hokey-Pokey thing…
Jon B.
Both MCs are Wilwood units, as is the clutch slave cylinder. I’ll use a flex line for the clutch, and bend and flare the brake lines - lots of flares, as there’s a proportioning valve and a residual pressure valve for the brakes.
I had to shorten the brake MC pushrod and cut an inch or so of new threads, but that went well. I threaded it first, then cut it.
Upside down, the setup looks like this:
The slave cylinder will mount on top of the transmission crossmember, and looks thus:
The cylinder is a “pull” type, hence the flex line. The mount was for the rocker shaft from the old mechanical linkage but has been cut and welded upon.
I’ll hang everything in its place for final fit & function, then tear it all apart for painting. Do the Hokey-Pokey thing…
Jon B.
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2022
More progress! I finished welding up the tailgate repair panels, and got the rust dissolved/converted/ground off and the primer applied. Next up is drilling for the hinge, and installing the weld-nuts.
Here’s how the wagon sits on her new Jeepsterman 2” lift springs…
It’s coming! The opening for the tailgate will present its own challenges…
Jon B.
Here’s how the wagon sits on her new Jeepsterman 2” lift springs…
It’s coming! The opening for the tailgate will present its own challenges…
Jon B.
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2022
The tailgate has been moved to the “back burner “ for now. There’s plenty of other stuff that needs attention…
Pretty much all of the wiring has had to be replaced. The battery cables are exceptions but the rest is junk. The jerks at Willys-Overland couldn’t be bothered to use components that would still be good after only 70 years! Planned obsolescence, I suppose. Many light fixtures were corroded beyond salvage, though the tail lights only needed new bulb contacts and cleanup for grounding. The headlights needed new lamp sockets and wires. The front markers/signals are rusted into one piece and must be replaced.
I managed to resurrect the light switch, and the ignition switch is good. Some of the instrument lights are good but all of the dash wiring is new. I installed a voltmeter while I was digging into the dash. Old toggle switches and indicator lights were bad. I took out the CB, an ancient 9-channel relic.
There was no turn signal controller and no brake light switch, so a Signal Stat 900 (eBay) went in as well as a new brake light switch from Summit.
The hanging pedals are permanently installed and the hydraulic clutch is operational. The brake lines are the most recent addition, with a proportioning valve and residual pressure valve added (disc brakes in front, 11” Bendix in the rear). The driver’s front is complete. Rear brakes are plumbed to the flex hose from the axle to the body; just hafta run the hard line to that point.
Awaiting a new dimmer switch and a sealed beam lamp (one fell off the fender and shattered), and the head and tail lights are done. Front marker/turn signals are in need of replacement. I’ll need some bulbs to get all four corners lit.
I pulled the cover off the rear diff to inspect it. All looked OK so a new gasket and lube and that’s ready.
Still gotta figure out front seats and belts; S-10 pickup or Blazer…?
Jon B.
Pretty much all of the wiring has had to be replaced. The battery cables are exceptions but the rest is junk. The jerks at Willys-Overland couldn’t be bothered to use components that would still be good after only 70 years! Planned obsolescence, I suppose. Many light fixtures were corroded beyond salvage, though the tail lights only needed new bulb contacts and cleanup for grounding. The headlights needed new lamp sockets and wires. The front markers/signals are rusted into one piece and must be replaced.
I managed to resurrect the light switch, and the ignition switch is good. Some of the instrument lights are good but all of the dash wiring is new. I installed a voltmeter while I was digging into the dash. Old toggle switches and indicator lights were bad. I took out the CB, an ancient 9-channel relic.
There was no turn signal controller and no brake light switch, so a Signal Stat 900 (eBay) went in as well as a new brake light switch from Summit.
The hanging pedals are permanently installed and the hydraulic clutch is operational. The brake lines are the most recent addition, with a proportioning valve and residual pressure valve added (disc brakes in front, 11” Bendix in the rear). The driver’s front is complete. Rear brakes are plumbed to the flex hose from the axle to the body; just hafta run the hard line to that point.
Awaiting a new dimmer switch and a sealed beam lamp (one fell off the fender and shattered), and the head and tail lights are done. Front marker/turn signals are in need of replacement. I’ll need some bulbs to get all four corners lit.
I pulled the cover off the rear diff to inspect it. All looked OK so a new gasket and lube and that’s ready.
Still gotta figure out front seats and belts; S-10 pickup or Blazer…?
Jon B.
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2022
Update - 21JULY2023
The tailgate and opening are complete! As was mentioned by someone here, the bottom of the opening got away from me, and is about a quarter-inch wider that originally built. I can live with that, but there’s a gap where the rear valence fits
A local fab shop bent up a “Z” bar in 14ga. sheet metal for the rear of the cargo floor. They flubbed, and it was too tall so I cut it with a Sawzall and welded it at the proper height. Then cut the flanges to take the warp out of it… I figured it was easier and quicker than having them bend another one.
The floor was a bear to weld up, being a bit thin in places from rust. It took some hole filling to get it done.
The back end looks like this:
And, with the tailgate in:
I found a pair of seats at the local yard. They’re from a 2002 GMC Yukon. Power & leather! The belts are integrated into them, so no anchors required. I’ll really have to reinforce the mounting, though.
Then, since it needed new tires, and I had a set of wheels and tires…
Mickey Thompson 33x12.50x15 on American Racing wheels. It turns stop-to-stop without touching anything!
Now to replace the rotten gas tank.
Jon B.
The tailgate and opening are complete! As was mentioned by someone here, the bottom of the opening got away from me, and is about a quarter-inch wider that originally built. I can live with that, but there’s a gap where the rear valence fits
A local fab shop bent up a “Z” bar in 14ga. sheet metal for the rear of the cargo floor. They flubbed, and it was too tall so I cut it with a Sawzall and welded it at the proper height. Then cut the flanges to take the warp out of it… I figured it was easier and quicker than having them bend another one.
The floor was a bear to weld up, being a bit thin in places from rust. It took some hole filling to get it done.
The back end looks like this:
And, with the tailgate in:
I found a pair of seats at the local yard. They’re from a 2002 GMC Yukon. Power & leather! The belts are integrated into them, so no anchors required. I’ll really have to reinforce the mounting, though.
Then, since it needed new tires, and I had a set of wheels and tires…
Mickey Thompson 33x12.50x15 on American Racing wheels. It turns stop-to-stop without touching anything!
Now to replace the rotten gas tank.
Jon B.
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2022
Oh, yeah…
I adjusted the door hinges and put in all new bolts. Slotted hardware ought to be outlawed; socket head for the win! Or Torx.
Also, the rear valence and bumper are on. And, I stole the hood hold-downs from the ‘72 and bolted them on the wagon.
Jon B.
I adjusted the door hinges and put in all new bolts. Slotted hardware ought to be outlawed; socket head for the win! Or Torx.
Also, the rear valence and bumper are on. And, I stole the hood hold-downs from the ‘72 and bolted them on the wagon.
Jon B.
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2022
The seats are in and wired! They’re about one to two inches too high but are acceptable, provided the driver’s side is run back before climbing in. Otherwise, the steering wheel is kind of close.
A new plastic gas tank and sender showed up this week. I * think* that’s the last thing needed to take it for a test drive!!
Perhaps a video posting soon…
Jon B.
A new plastic gas tank and sender showed up this week. I * think* that’s the last thing needed to take it for a test drive!!
Perhaps a video posting soon…
Jon B.
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2022
31JUL2023
I drove it!!
Only to the end of our 1000-foot driveway and back but still…
Mrs. B. Has video proof but her phone camera is new, and my phone doesn’t like the format.
Full disclosure: it only starts by pouring gas down the carb. It stopped at the end of the driveway, and I had to walk back to get the container.
My brother asked about a vacuum leak. Maybe? I did rebuild the carb but the accelerator pump doesn’t squirt fuel - does it have one? The carb has a “power valve”; maybe no pump…?
Regardless, I guess the carb comes off for more work. Maybe I’ll steal the one off the ‘72 CJ if it’s a close match. (Ford 260 V8 vs. AMC 304)
Still, I’m stoked. I hauled it home one year and 11 days ago ( if I remember correctly). It now moves under its own power!
Jon B.
I drove it!!
Only to the end of our 1000-foot driveway and back but still…
Mrs. B. Has video proof but her phone camera is new, and my phone doesn’t like the format.
Full disclosure: it only starts by pouring gas down the carb. It stopped at the end of the driveway, and I had to walk back to get the container.
My brother asked about a vacuum leak. Maybe? I did rebuild the carb but the accelerator pump doesn’t squirt fuel - does it have one? The carb has a “power valve”; maybe no pump…?
Regardless, I guess the carb comes off for more work. Maybe I’ll steal the one off the ‘72 CJ if it’s a close match. (Ford 260 V8 vs. AMC 304)
Still, I’m stoked. I hauled it home one year and 11 days ago ( if I remember correctly). It now moves under its own power!
Jon B.
Last edited:
jeepdaddy2000
Active Member
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2004
Yes.
It's the cover on the front of the carb.There should be a lever connected to a rod connected to the throttle shaft.
If you pull the carb to work on it, I suggest you drop and dress both the accelerator pump and the power valve cover on a piece of emery cloth. They have a bad habit of warping at the edges and leaking.
Much like early Holley's Motorcraft carbs will blow the power valve if you get a carb backfire. The way to check is to drop the cover. If there is gas in it, then the PV needs replacement.
Might also take a crack at adjusting the choke.
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2022
Yay! I swapped in the carb from the ‘72 CJ and it runs like a fine watch!
I guess I still don’t know how to correctly overhaul a carburetor.
There were a few minor changes needed - fuel inlet, accelerator linkage, vacuum lines, etc. but it was still a quick switch.
It idles well, accelerates nicely and starts easily without priming (after the initial prime of a dry carb).
Perhaps it’s time for insurance…
Jon B.
I guess I still don’t know how to correctly overhaul a carburetor.
There were a few minor changes needed - fuel inlet, accelerator linkage, vacuum lines, etc. but it was still a quick switch.
It idles well, accelerates nicely and starts easily without priming (after the initial prime of a dry carb).
Perhaps it’s time for insurance…
Jon B.
jeepdaddy2000
Active Member
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2004
Your old carb looks to be an early Motorcraft. Don't junk it as there may be some interest from some of the early Ford and Mustang crew.
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2022
My youngest grandson and I drove the wagon to town for gas on Friday, only to to find that it wouldn’t start after we gassed it up.
Called Mrs. B. to rescue us; jump start failed; resorted to push-start with the pickup. The front bumper on a one ton Chevy 4x4 truck matches up perfectly with the rear of the wagon.
A new starter will be at the local NAPA store on Monday.
Jon B.
Called Mrs. B. to rescue us; jump start failed; resorted to push-start with the pickup. The front bumper on a one ton Chevy 4x4 truck matches up perfectly with the rear of the wagon.
A new starter will be at the local NAPA store on Monday.
Jon B.
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2022
I thought I had posted this here but…
The wagon is gonna get some upgrades: new(er) engine - 5.0 SBF; transmission - NP435; axles - Scout Dana 44s. Oh, Saginaw power steering, too.
The front got the “cut & turn” and new ball joints, seals, and a spring perch relocation. And rotors & pads. The cut & turn turned out to be no big deal, in spite of my dreading it. Relative to the spring perch cast into the housing, the caster was several degrees negative (3-5 ish), so it got rotated to 5 degrees positive; a big change.
I’m about done working on the front but awaiting parts to finish assembly.
The engine is “refreshed” and on the stand.
More to come…
Jon B.
The wagon is gonna get some upgrades: new(er) engine - 5.0 SBF; transmission - NP435; axles - Scout Dana 44s. Oh, Saginaw power steering, too.
The front got the “cut & turn” and new ball joints, seals, and a spring perch relocation. And rotors & pads. The cut & turn turned out to be no big deal, in spite of my dreading it. Relative to the spring perch cast into the housing, the caster was several degrees negative (3-5 ish), so it got rotated to 5 degrees positive; a big change.
I’m about done working on the front but awaiting parts to finish assembly.
The engine is “refreshed” and on the stand.
More to come…
Jon B.
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2022
Speaking of the “cut & turn”…
About 45 minutes with my 4” Makita had the welds ground out of both ends. It was a warm day, so I moved it outside to keep the mess out of the shop.
A closer shot, showing the line between C and tube:
They wouldn’t turn, so I had to drive them completely off the tube, clean up the burrs that got there when being pressed on, then drive them back on in the right spot.
I did the pipeline weld:a hot root pass, a pass on each side of that, then a wide ‘weave’ over all three.
The 20-ton press got used for R&R of ball joints; that was easy.
Jon B.
About 45 minutes with my 4” Makita had the welds ground out of both ends. It was a warm day, so I moved it outside to keep the mess out of the shop.
A closer shot, showing the line between C and tube:
They wouldn’t turn, so I had to drive them completely off the tube, clean up the burrs that got there when being pressed on, then drive them back on in the right spot.
I did the pipeline weld:a hot root pass, a pass on each side of that, then a wide ‘weave’ over all three.
The 20-ton press got used for R&R of ball joints; that was easy.
Jon B.