Varg In Jeep's Clothing

[ITLKSEZ]

Nice work! I posted a few years ago about building something similar. It is still working and has been used for many trail repairs, even a couple on the last ECJ5 Rubicon run I attended a few years ago. I used a CS-144 which you can purchase a rectifier that will fit inside. I originally tried the rheostat but found it wasn't necessary. I use engine RPM to control weld current and that has worked pretty well.

https://www.earlycj5.com/index.php?threads/147501/

Ha! Not only did I see and “like” your post 5 years ago, but I even commented on it. No memory of that!

 

[ITLKSEZ]

Re the broken brushes - more likely someone tried to clock it and did not hold the brushes back using the holes in the case.
Could have been a customer return, though it could be from someone in the repair trade.
Usually regular customers can't return electrical parts, but the repair shops usually can.
Ordered it in, tried to clock it, returned it.
Or maybe an Amazon return.
Where did you buy the alternator?

I started with a new 12si alternator from Amazon… The missing pieces were nowhere to be found, so it must’ve happened in the factory.

Amazon returns typically go to auction or the landfill.

 

[ITLKSEZ]

Success!!

I got everything mounted, wired in, and loomed last night and was able to fire it up.

The welding experience is… different. It’s difficult to start a cold arc and keep it burning for the first few seconds, but after the heat sinks in a little, the weld gets HOT! It’s a bit of a learning curve that I could see being frustrating for a novice. If the weld speed and weave pattern were held consistent from beginning to end, the bead would appear cold and bulbous in the beginning, and hot and flat at the end. You really need to watch the puddle to read what’s happening under the flux.

I found I got the best results at 1700 rpm (probably 1500 under load), at full power on the rheostat. It puts out 64 open circuit volts at those settings. I’ll have my gf watch the meter later to see what the actual welding volts are. My guestimation is around 28-32v.

The 3rd and 4th welds (the first 2 were fugly as I was trying different settings):

The rectifier stayed cool to the touch, which was surprising. The alternator on the other hand, that thing builds some heat fairly quickly.

 

[neohic]

Amazing work as usual, Ryan!

What type of rod are you burning and have you tried others? The cold start might be in part from the 7018 (I’m guess from the sound and finished appearance) but something like 6013 will have completely different burning and starting characteristics. I’d pick 6013 to keep in the tool bag over something like a low hydrogen rod like 7018 anyhow. There’s definitely reasons 6013 is lovingly referred to as “farmer rod”.

 

[ITLKSEZ]

Amazing work as usual, Ryan!

What type of rod are you burning and have you tried others? The cold start might be in part from the 7018 (I’m guess from the sound and finished appearance) but something like 6013 will have completely different burning and starting characteristics. I’d pick 6013 to keep in the tool bag over something like a low hydrogen rod like 7018 anyhow. There’s definitely reasons 6013 is lovingly referred to as “farmer rod”.

I think it was 6013. Could be 7014. The rod is unmarked and I can’t tell which container it came from. I’ll grab a fresh pack next time I’m out.

I did try some 1/8” 7018 and it did fine after I got it started. Ran incredibly hot and flat like the old 7024 rods we used to run in the structural shop.

 

[Rich M.]

Cool!
7018 really likes everything clean IME, wouldn't be my first choice for a field rod. That's an awesome experiment/ write up. Thanks

 

[ITLKSEZ]

I just tried running the compressor for the first time since its hose reconfiguration, and it sounded like it threw a rod. It was shaking the whole jeep and making a helluva racket.

After I saw the hose above the radiator bulging, I realized I put the check valve in backwards

I’m here for your entertainment folks!

 

[fr8dog61]

I just tried running the compressor for the first time since its hose reconfiguration, and it sounded like it threw a rod. It was shaking the whole jeep and making a helluva racket.

After I saw the hose above the radiator bulging, I realized I put the check valve in backwards

I’m here for your entertainment folks!

Thank you for posting that!

 

[ITLKSEZ]

My voltage guess was nearly spot on. It flutters around 28V with 3/32” 6013 rod and 30.5V with 1/16” 6013 rod. I’ll carry both, but the 1/16” rod has trouble maintaining an arc. The 3/32” rod is perfect.

I also tried it with the throttle bumped up to the second click, and it puts out 115V open circuit at 2500rpm. I tried welding at that speed and it was a bit much. It felt like around 40+V. It would be great for 1/4” or 3/8” plate and 1/8” rod.

Now I’m going to pack it up and hope I never need it.

 

[ITLKSEZ]

I just returned from a turn-and-burn to the other side of the state to pick up a pretty major winter project. 640 miles round trip in about 9 1/2 hours.

But first… what prompted this short-notice excursion? I played hooky on Friday and went for an overnight camping trip. I explored a section of forest that I haven’t been to in about 22 years. I was quickly reminded why. As soon as I left pavement, I was met by a speeding oncoming vehicle every 1/4 mile for about 45 miles. The scenery wasn’t even that great, except for this one slice I could see of Lake Pend Oreille through the trees and valleys.

I finally got to some less-traveled trails and could let my guard down a little, but my nerves were fried.

I found a nice secluded camp site along the North Fork of the CDA River a few miles from the MT state line and set up camp.

My tent was on a bit of a hill, so I had to cut some stilts so I wouldn’t slide off my cot.

I had a huge bull moose stumble down the river and through camp at 6am. I was peeking at him through the window of the tent as he walked past 15 feet from where I was laying. Super cool experience, but a tad frightening.

I went to use the bucket toilet in the morning and found that a mouse had annihilated my toilet paper. There were shredded bits everywhere.

I later found that he ate most of the last piece of licorice I was saving, also.

I packed up camp and headed deeper into the mountains. I made it up to Idaho point; fire ravaged this area last year, I was interested to see how bad the damage was. The north side was scorched, but the south side was untouched.

The south side:

The north side:

I could see Gem Peak lookout from up there. My daughters and I stayed there for a night a few summers ago.

On my way back down towards pavement near the Clark Fork River, I did a little side quest up to Beaver Peak. The road didn’t make it to the Peak, but the views were stellar regardless.

I finally hit pavement at around 2pm and headed back on the 2-hour trip home. It was on this trip home when something in my head switched. I was suddenly ready to commit to figuring out a way to get overdrive into this jeep. Ever since I did the turbo swap, highway cruising has been a little uncomfortable and gas guzzling. The RPMs are high enough at highway speed that the turbo remains spooled. It sounds funny to say, but it’s difficult to hold a constant speed because there’s too much power on tap. Hold a constant foot pressure and it wants to accelerate. Leave off just a hair and it’s enough to let the turbo unwind and speed drops. Speed up, slow down. Repeat. I don’t get this anywhere below 3200 rpm, and that’s the beginning of highway speeds. An overdrive would drop RPMs to keep me out of the turbo under normal use.

When I got home, I hopped on marketplace to see what was available. I always watch for a Jeep T5, but they are never cheap and are usually in pieces. This time there was one at the top of my search in good condition for $100 on the other side of the state. I immediately messaged the guy. I didn’t hear back until this morning when I dropped everything and told him I’ll be there in 4 1/2 hours. I hopped in my car and drove non-stop to Spanaway, WA.

Mount Rainier was putting on quite a show today. I’ve never seen it so clear. This shot from 85 miles away.

I made it back by 7 o’clock tonight with a T5 in my possession, with no idea how or if I’m going to make it work. I do know it’s exactly the same length as my current transmission and adapter, so driveshafts will not change.

I’ll gain a 3.52 highway gear. Also, with the 4:1 first gear, it’ll add 3 points to my crawl ratio. This should be a fun project.

 

[45es]

I wish I knew you were looking for one. I have one in my garage in Yakima.

 

[Norcal69]

I wish I knew you were looking for one. I have one in my garage in Yakima.

Not to Hijack, but is is in service ready condition?

 

[duffer]

“It’s not called a man purse, it’s a satchel. Indiana Jones wears one”

Naaa

Satchels are for C4.

Are you going to post up part numbers/source Ryan? I've got two candidates for this if it works. I suspect the method is exactly the same as Premier uses.

 

[ITLKSEZ]

Are you going to post up part numbers/source Ryan? I've got two candidates for this if it works. I suspect the method is exactly the same as Premier uses.

The rectifier is really the only special part that I needed, since welding is this alternator’s sole purpose.. I think I’ve found that the rheostat isn’t really necessary with a 140a alternator. Engine RPM actually does a better job of controlling output voltage.

If you want your alternator to still perform as an alternator, you’ll need more parts than I used in order to separate “weld mode” from “charge mode” like a Premier unit does.

140a alternator: https://a.co/d/0hXA4tK9
Rectifier: https://a.co/d/05I59nrj
Rheostat: https://a.co/d/07pGPJ69
Terminals: https://a.co/d/09hXvjwX
Electrode holder: https://a.co/d/06GMxpaS
Ground clamp: https://a.co/d/0fiwyOHJ
15’ lead wire: https://a.co/d/0eRB83rY

All those parts were sourced as cheaply as possible. Some were surprisingly good quality (terminals, wire, stinger), others were mucho Chinesium (ground clamp, rheostat).

This guy explains the science really well, and is where I found the links to some of the products.

This guy glosses over some important parts, but he explains how to keep your alternator functioning when not welding.

One thing I forgot to mention, I picked up this cheap 12 V soldering iron that works surprisingly well for $14. It got thrown in my tool bag along with some solder packs.
12v soldering iron: https://a.co/d/032NlQMv
Solder: https://a.co/d/0ecLqxYH

 

[duffer]

The rectifier is really the only special part that I needed, since welding is this alternator’s sole purpose.. I think I’ve found that the rheostat isn’t really necessary with a 140a alternator. Engine RPM actually does a better job of controlling output voltage.

If you want your alternator to still perform as an alternator, you’ll need more parts than I used in order to separate “weld mode” from “charge mode” like a Premier unit does.

140a alternator: https://a.co/d/0hXA4tK9
Rectifier: https://a.co/d/05I59nrj
Rheostat: https://a.co/d/07pGPJ69
Terminals: https://a.co/d/09hXvjwX
Electrode holder: https://a.co/d/06GMxpaS
Ground clamp: https://a.co/d/0fiwyOHJ
15’ lead wire: https://a.co/d/0eRB83rY

All those parts were sourced as cheaply as possible. Some were surprisingly good quality (terminals, wire, stinger), others were mucho Chinesium (ground clamp, rheostat).

This guy explains the science really well, and is where I found the links to some of the products.

This guy glosses over some important parts, but he explains how to keep your alternator functioning when not welding.

One thing I forgot to mention, I picked up this cheap 12 V soldering iron that works surprisingly well for $14. It got thrown in my tool bag along with some solder packs.
12v soldering iron: https://a.co/d/032NlQMv
Solder: https://a.co/d/0ecLqxYH

Have you used the soldering iron? Great idea.

 

[ITLKSEZ]

Have you used the soldering iron? Great idea.

I hooked it up to see how hot it got, and it had zero issues doing some standard stuff. It’s small, so it would struggle with heavier gauge wire, but for basic trail repairs it should work well. I got the idea when I had fuel injection wiring issues last summer. Electrical tape over twisted wires only gets you so far.

 

[duffer]

Electrical tape over twisted wires only gets you so far.

That was EVERY connection on Lost Biscuit.

 

[ITLKSEZ]

I got that T5 cleaned up. It’s actually in really good shape.

The inside looks really good.

The only issue I could find was a broken tab off the 1-2 shift fork. I think rather than buy a new one, I’m going to try building it back up with weld and milling it back into shape.

It’s funny, the 3-4 shift fork is available new for $20 through Quadratec. The cheapest I could find the 1-2 rail with availability was $100.