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Fino's 1970 Cj5 Build Thread

Got the rear two shackle hanger bushings replaced....here is the condition of the old 'silent block' style that needed replaced - deteriorated rubber with cracked inner sleeves:
PXL_20260516_234108856.jpg


And this is the last piece of rubber to replace - the rear brake line section between frame and rear axle:
PXL_20260517_222057995.jpg


With that, I think all the rubber except the motor mounts has been replaced (either with rubber or poly when appropriate). Don't see replacing the motor mounts now - are there even good replacement ones out there somewhere?
 
colojeepguy said:
I replaced mine before the UT trip last year and had file holes and grind rubber to get them to fit. :rolleyes:
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Where/which ones did you use? By default, I usually would start with Sam at Partsdude....looks like he sells the crown ones?

Sal at vintage jeeper looks to carry the same thing - probably the only option out there?
 
FinoCJ said:
Where/which ones did you use? By default, I usually would start with Sam at Partsdude....looks like he sells the crown ones?

Sal at vintage jeeper looks to carry the same thing - probably the only option out there?
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I got mine from Partsdude4x4, they were Crown and fit lousy. I emailed Sam to tell him they were poorly made and he gave me a 100% refund even though I didn't ask for it!
I checked with other jeep suppliers and all the regular parts stores, no luck.
 
So that is why the brakes aren't bleeding quite right, and the brake feel just isn't there....guessing when the leaf spring mount broke off the frame, it allowed the axle to move down and rearward enough the top of the diff housing smacked into the fuel tank skid plate and pinched the line almost closed - I just couldn't figure out what was restricting fluid flow when trying to bleed, but it was kind of hidden under the mud and dusk caked brake line clamp/holder thingy that mounts via the diff cover bolt.
PXL_20260520_165849425.jpg

PXL_20260520_170520681.jpg
 
FinoCJ said:
So that is why the brakes aren't bleeding quite right, and the brake feel just isn't there....guessing when the leaf spring mount broke off the frame, it allowed the axle to move down and rearward enough the top of the diff housing smacked into the fuel tank skid plate and pinched the line almost closed - I just couldn't figure out what was restricting fluid flow when trying to bleed, but it was kind of hidden under the mud and dusk caked brake line clamp/holder thingy that mounts via the diff cover bolt.
PXL_20260520_165849425.jpg

PXL_20260520_170520681.jpg
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I was careful with the soft shackle! I guess I didn’t need to be…
 
With the saggy steering swap using the OEM column, I couldn't figure out a way to use the OEM horn wire that goes through the steering column - so no OEM style horn on the steering wheel. Don't know that I love the solution or not, but I wired in a momentary push switch (with inline circuit breaker) on the dash. I am not always sure what holes are what in the dash in terms of OEM locations of things, but this hole was where the manual windshield washer pump was (try to avoid drilling new holes in the dash). I've never used the washer so removed the pump thingy - the bag was wasted when I got the jeep, and it got removed along with the rotted sections of hose years ago. I figure if I ever put a washer in, it'll be electric motor and I'd probably move it to over near the wiper switch. The switch is generic dorman product - think they call it a push button starter - I like that it has the rubber exterior cover over the 'push button' and its rated for a bit higher amps (I feel like horns can pull some amps). ok - on to bigger projects....
PXL_20260522_175601952.jpg
 
I am finally putting to use the high clearance ubolt spring plates that some forum members put together with a group order. Honestly, its taken me 2 years to put them to use as I have found them more hassle than possibly worth. In addition to my suck-o-la welding (took some attempts and way too much time to get the gussets reasonably acceptable - I don't know what it would cost to get them pre-assembled with the gussets, but I would easily pay it), a shock mount solution is needed if replacing the OEM style. The best plan is probably to mount the shock on the axle tube, but given how short that makes the shock and limits the travel, using a taller top shock tower is needed. I wasn't prepared to do all that - so I eventually welded some shock mounts on the bottom of the base plate, trying to replicate the OEM location. This of course gives up the ground clearance the plates are designed to improve - but the only piece hanging low is the shock mount, and the ubolt ends/nuts are protected up out of the way. In addition, the low shock mount required some minor modification (more cutting, welding and grinding) for a bit of clearance. The pic is with the axle in full droop (hanging), so the shock position is most vertical and clearance is tightest. With weight on the springs, the axle shifts back and the shock body moves away from the plate - its tight, possibly too tight and the rubber shock bushing will allow a bit too much movement and some contact will be made. Its also possible the exposed shock mount will get ripped off in the rocks - at this point, that will be the end of them and it'll get some skid style spring plates.
PXL_20260612_212904693.jpg

PXL_20260612_212929572.jpg

PXL_20260612_221528686.jpg


I don't know that I would use these again - certainly not with a shock mount on it. If I had an exposed frame and building new taller shock towers, then maybe. As I posted just a week or two back, I chose to go with the skid style plates on the front as I really didn't want to deal with grinding on the passenger center tube where the larger inner ubolt goes over the center housing. I still have a front pair that can go with this rear pair if I ever get around to building that trail rig I always dream about.....but I think the 2nd complete set of 4 I have is going up for sale - I just sold you all on how awesome they are right?
 
My rear shock mounts turned out similar. I am running YJ shocks with stock upper mounts on the rear.
The fronts lend themselves to f250 upper mounts with YJ shocks.
 
colojeepguy said:
This is exactly why I decided to stick with the regular ubolt skid plates. I didn't know what to do about shocks.
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There a few different weld-on shock mounts available....I ended up with these as the short large diameter weldable mount end seemed right for the idea I had in my head (version 1).....
PXL_20260612_235435184.jpg


After mocking some stuff up, I realized the original idea wouldn't work (although in hindsight of that hindsight, maybe it would have)....anyway, I redesigned and thought I had it all figured out with version two - even welded it all up and painted etc - but somehow I missed something during test fitting and the shock position was not going to work. By the time I got to version 3 (the current version), a different style weldable shock mount would have worked better. Although the shock mount gives up some of the valued ground clearance gains, there is still significantly less stuff under there to get caught up compared to OEM (and I value having the ubolt nuts protected as we've seen a few of those have issues/break off over the years).
PXL_20260612_234623663.jpg

PXL_20260612_234800748.jpg


The skid plate style protect the ubolt nuts, and keep things from getting hung up in some ways (skid plate obviously), but they also sacrifice the most ground clearance....but yea, this was much easier on the front!
PXL_20260516_020409689.jpg


plusses and minuses to all the options.....and in this case, one of the pluses is now I have a set of four ecj5 style spring plates that will go on the wagon.....
 
colojeepguy said:
The Waggy 44 in the Willys pickup has this, but I don't think you could do it on a narrow track axle. Just not enough room..
View attachment 106409
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If the top mount is short, that higher bottom mount on the axle can really shorten the OAL of the shock, which then means potentially limited travel. Doesn't seem like a lot, but the travel in the front springs is already really limited in a lot of early jeeps. The 58 wagon has the same issue.
 
FinoCJ said:
I am finally putting to use the high clearance ubolt spring plates that some forum members put together with a group order. Honestly, its taken me 2 years to put them to use as I have found them more hassle than possibly worth. In addition to my suck-o-la welding (took some attempts and way too much time to get the gussets reasonably acceptable - I don't know what it would cost to get them pre-assembled with the gussets, but I would easily pay it), a shock mount solution is needed if replacing the OEM style. The best plan is probably to mount the shock on the axle tube, but given how short that makes the shock and limits the travel, using a taller top shock tower is needed. I wasn't prepared to do all that - so I eventually welded some shock mounts on the bottom of the base plate, trying to replicate the OEM location. This of course gives up the ground clearance the plates are designed to improve - but the only piece hanging low is the shock mount, and the ubolt ends/nuts are protected up out of the way. In addition, the low shock mount required some minor modification (more cutting, welding and grinding) for a bit of clearance. The pic is with the axle in full droop (hanging), so the shock position is most vertical and clearance is tightest. With weight on the springs, the axle shifts back and the shock body moves away from the plate - its tight, possibly too tight and the rubber shock bushing will allow a bit too much movement and some contact will be made. Its also possible the exposed shock mount will get ripped off in the rocks - at this point, that will be the end of them and it'll get some skid style spring plates.
PXL_20260612_212904693.jpg

PXL_20260612_212929572.jpg

PXL_20260612_221528686.jpg


I don't know that I would use these again - certainly not with a shock mount on it. If I had an exposed frame and building new taller shock towers, then maybe. As I posted just a week or two back, I chose to go with the skid style plates on the front as I really didn't want to deal with grinding on the passenger center tube where the larger inner ubolt goes over the center housing. I still have a front pair that can go with this rear pair if I ever get around to building that trail rig I always dream about.....but I think the 2nd complete set of 4 I have is going up for sale - I just sold you all on how awesome they are right?
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The rear shock mounts are supposed to be welded to the axle tube.
The way you mounted them will definitely result in poor performance.
This is how the plates are supposed to be used.

IMG_9597.jpeg


IMG_9596.jpeg

As far as the front goes….
If I can mount the plates with 2.5” springs, you can mount them easier with 1.75” wide springs.
You will have much less grinding on the center housing than I did.

IMG_9521.jpeg

The front shock mounts on early CJ5s are poor on their best day.
If you are building a reliable wheeler Jeep you will always need to rework the front upper mounts.
Moving the shocks behind the axle tube is the best location to protect them from rocks and prevent the tie rod from hitting them.


IMG_9579.jpeg

If you were dead set on keeping the stock front shock upper mounts, mounting the shock in front of the axle is still doable.
You would need to get the correct length shock.
The shocks I used have a larger diameter body than rancho twin tubes.

IMG_9572.jpeg
 
Sorry Kyle - over my skill or interest level.....as I said, I probably should have just used the skid style plates on the rear as well - and the good news is that can be done pretty easily. Unless I am missing something, the current ones are basically an expensive replacement of the OEM set-up with minimal improvement, but I don't think its a negative mod. The money was a sunk cost so at this point it was worth it to me to try and use them ....besides, if I ever decide to move the mount to the axle and raise the top tower, it can still be done and the spring plates can be used to their full capacity. If you want another set, you know where to find them....

Norcal69 said:
If you were dead set on keeping the stock front shock upper mounts, mounting the shock in front of the axle is still doable.
You would need to get the correct length shock.
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I disagree this is functional improvement....without lengthening the top shock mount, mounting the bottom mount on the axle shortens the shock even more than the OEM set-up....the travel on my CJ is limited by the shock travel (well the bumpstop which is set to protect the shock from bottoming out). shortening the shock by a couple inches due to the higher mount reduces that limiting shock travel even more.....the best way to do it is as you said is raise both the bottom mount to the axle and raise the top mount with a tower.......I did it the way I did not because I thought it was best, but because I am not in position to do it the best possible way. At some point, I'd like to drive my jeep this summer not to mention do things other than eff around in my shop. I probably have a couple hundred hours effing with these plates - that could have been spent a lot better ways.....time to move on.
 
It's $4 for 4lbs here (4lbs per gal). A 1lb disposable bottle is darn near $8. Refilling 1lb from 20lbs has safety issues (even with refillable bottles)

How much lp do you use in a jeep based trip and how often do you go on trips... I think it will pay off for you as long as you are at an altitude and temperature that lp is effective.

The only down side is you can't dump it into the gas tank to get off the trail.
 
Jw60 said:
How much lp do you use in a jeep based trip and how often do you go on trips... I think it will pay off for you as long as you are at an altitude and temperature that lp is effective.
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We've had the 5lbs tank for awhile - I prefer my 11lbs pancake tank for most things travel related (and river trips) - but the 5lbs is the only one that fits in the jeep. It just never had a holder before. For white rim, we just strapped it to the rack, but its not the best use of that space - could easily have had another rack of beer up there!
PXL_20260409_155102446-1.jpg


Its also completely a luxury item - we don't actually cook with the propane. We use a little backpack stove with the iso-butane canisters.....the propane is just for the firepit:
361.jpg


We are doing more and more trips in the shoulder seasons, and its nice to have a bit of a campfire, but given the state of the west with un-ending fire conditions. The propane has become our preferred fire method both for permitted trails like white rim, maze, elephant hill where wood fires are never allowed, and anytime a region has stage 1 or 2 fire restrictions - the propane system with shut off valve is allowed. Those that have wheeled with YJ Jim know he's the one that got us on to this - the stuff he can fit into that YJ behemoth! Taking it to Colo next week assuming we don't have extreme fire bans.....Lolo NF just announced stage 2 fireban today to west of us here in MT.
 
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