YORK O.B.A ---made easy

well I came on this site last year looking for ideas and there was not really much on it here execpt for a diag. which looked way to hard . recent posts got me started on it again thankyou ,,,(and lack of concrete work)(and rain)(and snow)(and $). so I came up with this.....a very solid easy mount with 3 bolts . it has a little adj. but final adj would be washers between base and comp. but it doesn't look like any would be needed.... and I stood on the comp. and wiggled around and it was fine. my wife came in as I was standing in it jumping around and she just closed the door again.R) pulley is a double off the alt ... pumps no problem.just need the rest of the stuff.do you really need a tank ,don't really have a place for one underneath. if I don't use a tank I would need a very low blow-off valve (Kilby?) so the comp doen't lock up.....

 

Nice Job! Id run a tank but you could probably get away without it.

 

I would run a tank. Think outside the box..........a tank can double as something else. A bumper maybe??? If you don't have a winch on your rig, put one between the frame rails in front of the grill. You can find room for a tank somewhere.

 

If you don't have a rear fuel tank installed, one of those pancake style compressor tanks looks like it would fit nicely up between the rear frame rails

any chance of a pic of the underside of the bracket?

 

Steve,

I may have a line on a tank if you're interested. A friend of mine snagged one for me, but I had just purchased one. I don't think he is going to use it. About three gallons I think. PM or call if interested.

Nice job on the bracket.

 

Pics of you standing on it or it didn't happen.

 

the air tank off of a peerless log dollyfits right betweenthe frame rail and have mounting brackets welded on they are around 10 inches in diameter

 

I have a 3 gl tank $40 ,, it looked small at the 4x4 expo.20"x 7". to big once held up to jeep . well have a winch so can't go there with p/s so not there at all and have rear gas tank so no there , inverter under hood not there too big by the driveshaft. don't really want it underneath .......rocks bad . only place would be pass side inside tub,not good either . I did not grab a pic of it upside down. but basicly 3bolts.1 off the alt bracket brace bolted soild .2nd , is alt .adj. bolt .and I machined a curved slot for adj. of both. and 3rd bar goes down to alum alt bracket bolt next to intake cut slot so it just slips in . ........................ called Kilby great people , but they want a fortune for all the other stuff to make this work.filter 115,check valve 40,safety blow off 8, pressure switch 40,and regulator 50. plus fittings and distribution log. I guess I'll piece it out over a few years or try maybe Grainger?????? help on this ? anyone?? P.S. I don't really think I need a tank 2 clicks of the hand throttle was pushing an amazing amount of air...... this system will pump a 33mtr from 0-32 in ............................20seconds

 

Looks good! I made a front bumper/tank but it seems a bit small so I might make a rear one and connect them with 1/2' plastic air line.

 

well, that last message sneaked by me . thanks for the info !!!! here's where I'm at . not hooked up yet but soon . 1gal tank was $40 going under the dash inside next to the glove box. did the screw mod inside the york to plug oil passage but oil still came out .and wanted a cleaner system found the filter for $40 same as Kilbys for $115 . check valve and blow-off at graingers and lots of misc. fittings. the fitting going from the comp. to filter was pricey though.and the pressure switch was free 110on/145off. not enough air to lift my buddys airbaged hearse '61 Caddy. gauge will be moved inboard 1/2" for better protection.....and so far no leaks.sould be done to day and ready for Truckhaven!!!!

 

In regards to the bumper tanks.....DON'T DO THIS !!!!. A bumper tank is a bomb in a crash with the right conditions. I was a fireman for a while, VRT rated, and I can tell you a pressure vessel that is unprotected in a vulnerable position is bad. It sounds cool , but do the math sometime on the amount of force in an air tank. That is why they have spherical ends. As an example, I had the bright idea to build a tank out of 3/8 aluminum , 1 foot square. Al was 6061,t-6 , all tig welded. I started the fill, got to 20 psi, and the tank started to balloon. By 30 psi, I got chickened out and dropped the plan. Stick the tank under the seat, or anywhere inside the frame rails.

 

ok ,I built this awhile ago and it 's still running fine

the JPmag 09 has a great write up with good info too

junkyard Volvo compressor $25
a Viair 1 gal tank $46
the Viair switch pack 90005 comes with a 145/175 switch ,blow off and drain $11 a
tremendous amount of NAPA brass fittings $25+
a Interstate Pneumatic filter W1060A-047 $45
a Grainger 3/8" check valve 5x781 $17
20' of 300 psi burst hose $40
that special swivel to get from the comp to the filter 82 SER-FEM JIC was $25

it runs fine and puts a slight load on the little Dauntless when running with a click from the hand throttle . I did the head mod but oil still gets trough and into the filter. so I installed the oil return line system . it takes about a beer can of oil and it has yet to seize up.....


I got tired of stashing that air hose and found a really cool air reel at a swapmeet for $5 and since I now have a 6 I have room pretty cool to hear air tools on the trail !

service truck

 

Thanks CJ6/442!

 

Dave any other info questions and maybe I can help out

 

Hey did you get those flashing Yellow Strobe lights on it yet?..........How much to fix a flat?

All kidding aside that's a real nice setup...........Good Job!

 

I'va run this set-up for couple of month but i had several problem so i decided to take it out after i blow up the coaslescent filter. Here the major problem:
With only one belt on the alternator and York, the belt was sliping on alternator so it was not working right.
I would have need the two belt pulley or install a idler pulley somewhere (what i did not ).
Second thing, i was using a air cylinder to give more rpm when compressor turned on, it happen to cause excessive heat (in the air that goes out the york) and i blow up my coaslescent filter, so from there i decided to take it out. Only thing i found that can solve this problem is a cup tube that is use on normal compressor to cool down the air.


But i can say the performance of the york is way superior than any electric compressor. i was airing up a 35 inch tire from 5 to 20 psi in 30 sec.

 

was your filter the plastic one? I have had 0 trouble with the Interstate

 

Yeah, that could be that my problem.

But it's the only thing that i had problem.

For the rpm thing, i use a pressure switch from a 110v compressor. I did use a one way cylinder (return by spring) with a 1 inch stroke. I put the cylinder inline with the empty head tube on the pressure swith. So this way compressor start only when there a drop of pression in the line (like starting to inflate tire). When the compressor start it pressurise the empty head tube and cylinder open pushing on gas trotthle. So as soon as i stop inflate a tire, the pressure switch close causing the empty head tube to lose all pressure, closing the cylinder by the same time. I set my rpm to 2100, withing the chart i was giving around 10 cfm at 90psi, so you can easily run a 1/2" drive impact.

Sorry i you have difficul in reading me, my first language is french and sometime is difficult to bring a good description while writing.

 

Nice reel set up Steve. I just use a 25' Coilhose and stuff it in next to the driver's seat. And while I agree a filter doesn't nearly clean up the air stream, you can recover most of the line oil. I plumbed a line from the filter drain back to the pump and it just recycles the stuff (manual valve so you can still dump any water).

A single pulley clutch should work without any belt slipping if everything is engineered correctly. I've tested mine up to 250 psi with one belt but you need a good "wrap" on the clutch pulley.


Here is a list of most items I used. The only Kilby part was a 90 degree Rotolock fitting and most hardware items were sourced through Grainger.

Compressor: York Model 000168, SN: AMC-5461585. Application: 1984 Jeep Wagoneer. 10.3 cu in displacement. Front seal kit: J8120180. Pump manufactured by Borg Warner.

Head output fitting: Kilby 4470 Rotolock to 1/2 NPT 90 degree elbow.

Manifold: Custom machined 6063 aluminum 12 port.

Safety Valve: Control Devices SA25-150, Grainger item 5A713, ¼ NPT male thread, 150 psi.

Air Filter: Solberg FS-15-075, modified with custom machined rotolock fitting for direct connection to compressor head threaded suction port. Grainger item 4Z679.

Air Line Filter/Separator: Speedaire 4ZL42, metal with ½ inch NPT connections.

Check Valve/Unloader: Control Devices “Load Genie” PA241A, Grainger item 5A705, ½ inch NPTfemale inlet, ½ inch male outlet.

Pressure Switch: Square D 9013FHG 19J27. 70 - 100 psi factory setting, fixed 30 psi differential. Grainger item 2FG82. ¼ inch male NPT connection. Run it set at 145 psi max.

Air Tank: Linde aluminum medical oxygen tank mounted transverse just ahead of rear axle against bed.

Quick Connects: PCC Series F, 303 stainless steel, ¼ inch female NPT connection. Industrial interchange style (same as Milton M).

While perhaps not necessary, I really like the flexibility of having an adjustable pressure switch.

 

very good info given guys ,,,nice to help other ecj5'rs out when searching