YJ Spring SOA

Sorry I've been a bit reclusive lately. I've been working on a very lovely project lately involving a YJ spring swap on my CJ. The springs I had on the Flthy Muff were starting to sag quite a bit not to mention a little problem the previous owner created. When the Muff was constructed a 74 CJ5 frame and a fiberglass body was used as the base, but the axles came out of a 71. This posed a bit of a problem, the tires rub the body very bad. Without lifting the only solution would be to have bumpstops 5 inches long.
So here comes the solution.
I had a buddy that had some extra YJ 4" lift springs that were getting flat. So from there I started. The issue I have with most lift springs is #1: they are a one size fits all approach for an affordable spring, most are too damn stiff on a stock rig much less a fibergalss one. I really did not want a early cj5 4" lift spring that I would end up spending $400 dollars on only to throw away half the pack. #2 SUA don't have the kind of flex or ride I'm looking for. I do too much driving on rocks and rough trails to Justify a crappy ride.
There are a whole lotta articles out there that say SOA is more trouble than It's worth.....That is true on an out of the box kit that you pick up from 4wheelfu@#$. Or the kit you pay your local fab shop $2500 to install. (Don't laugh my buddy has a kit that was installed on his YJ at Sky's Extreme for about that price).

Here is a list of things that I have read about SOA that can be fixed fairly easy.....
1. The biggest thing I've heard is AXLE WRAP....Oh the big one...I kept my axle wrap under control with a perch 7X2/1 that I made from $2.50 worth of steel and 6013 welding rod..If I still had problems (which I don't) a free stock trac bar from any number of TJ owners that have lifted their jeeps would suffice.

2. Driveline angle..You can acomplish a SOA with stock shafts. I did a 3 degree pinion angle correction in the rear and a 2 degree in the front. I limited my droop to keep the drive line intact.. This will be upgraded later but If I wanted to I could sleeve the shaft for pretty cheap.

3. Terrible bump steer. Easy nice stock drop pitman arm from an XJ. Free

This is not a hard install, every part execpt the u-bolts, shackle hangers, and bushings were made in my small garage. The only specialized tools I used were an angle grinder and my AC225 Lincoln Arc Welder. The rest of the parts were made from a peice of 3x5x1/4 mild rectangle steel tube that I fould in a scrap bin at the industrial park.



My results: a very comfortable, crawable Jeep that can score at least 1200 on a 20 degree ramp. Thanks for reading my soa manifesto.
So Here are some pics.







P.S. I'm a coil suspension Hater. Sure they ride nice until the bushings wear out..all 420 of them. Coils are for girls and dudes with bad backs. Proof? here is my wifes rig.

 

What's your rigs weight?

 

when it comes to springs are you looking for his sprung weight or his unsprung weight?

Total weight of my YJ is ~4500 lbs IIRC and I love my BDS springs, they just took a little bit to break in.

 

I did have an axle wrap problem w/ my superlift rear springs. Corrected by adding another leaf and a traction bar. How close does your draglink come to the passenger axle spring? The drag link hits the spring on my brother's 5.

 

Mine weighs 2500-2700 depending on fuel and cargo.

 

3" at full turn, it has a later type tie rod and draglink setup..I can take a picture when I get home.

 

I am in the midst of gathering parts to go SOA with stock YJ springs on the '75. Are there any "gotcha's" you can warn me of? Anything you would have done different?

 

Rivets on the spring and shakle hangers. It took me longer to remove the old hardware than it did to make all the parts.

 

Pics of steering

 

Oh ya I forgot bumper clearence issues..I left a 1/4 inch gap under the shakle hanger and the fram on the front..I ordered 8 76' and up rear shackle hangers and bushings from 4wd.com

 

I take that you had to move the front shackle mount forward causing you to leave gap for the bumper. I am assuming about 1" forward.

Did you have to relocate your shock mounts on the front for more shock travel? I think I have the rears figured out such that the shocks will be angled to accommodate more travel.

 

Did you have to relocate your shock mounts on the front for more shock travel? I think I have the rears figured out such that the shocks will be angled to accommodate more travel.[/QUOTE]

I just mounted on the shock on the spring hold down plate..I could get more droop but my drive shaft is a tad too short.