Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Focker, Jul 23, 2016.
Ugh... I really hate that for you, sorry to see that
Thanks for the condolences guys. I'll start the pull out this week. Good news my machine guy says it should turn out clean at 30 under and they can usually go 40 on these if necessary. More pita than anything else...
So are you rebuilding the bottom end or swapping engines? Turning the crank and some undersize bearings sounds pretty good since it is otherwise a good known engine.
Currently plan is to pull the engine and go through the bottom end. If the rod end(s) are good turn the crank and new bearings. Hoping it's just 1&2 right now.
Got the windshield installed and hood on. Delusional enough to think I might be able to drive it this weekend!
I melted the stupid big plastic head off the TJ key (and two others) so my keys would fit in my pocket again.
only if you have pictures
Had transmission rebuilt - getting 2nd gear back! Novak rebuild kit
Took it for a drive. Wife said the engine is ticking
I didn't hear it though .
And Hendrix always likes when he gets the front seat too.
6 bolts from coming out.
Tell me your secrets. I need a witch doctor or something. I'm beginning to think my Jeep hates me.....
Aw...'Cmon Rich...........You're a Jeep Doctor if I ever knew one ! ( I don't think she hates ya.... maybe she dislikes you strongly right about now, but you'll make her feel better soon .... LoL )
Hey Brother Rich............ If your engines sat for such a long time, I was wondering if you did the old initial start up thing of priming the oil pump thru the distributor drive to the cam ? Don't get me wrong here , I'm not being a smartass , I'm just trying to be of support to you 'cuz I feel for you having to redo that engine .
On another note...... it's come to my attention that you have a 327 in your Shop !!!! ...... Can we Talk ???????
Yeah I primed it, had 40+ lbs on the gauge, oil up top. Either the lube deteriorated or there was junk in the crank passages from the turning. Pm me about the 327
We all think that at some point. I think I said that yesterday while working on the B.
My 28 y/o, leaky, stretched-out bikini top finally bit the dust when rain filled it like a bath tub and a strap self-amputated.
In its racing days, I had a stainless roof on this thing. No idea what ever happened to it. I had this piece of aluminum left over from a job, so I figured, why not. A little trimming, a little forming, and a few zip ties...
I formed a crude rain spout to divert water to the sides, and not directly down my shifter handle.
My parts started arriving Today . I'm Psyched !
This shows the Custom Grinding of the calper. I will NOT grind on my Knuckle's......I do enough of that at my Work !
First coat & New TIMKEN's ..... They should be worth doing on my 46 year old !
1956 CJ5, F134, 6v system... Relatively simple thing today - I got the original (I think) horn working to add to the instrument cluster lights a few days ago. Now all stock electrical systems are operational. Going to aim the headlights tonight to get better road coverage - they're currently set/aimed at/for shooting possums out of a tree.
- horn vid
- instrument cluster lighting
Sounds Great....Typically the Grounds on our Jeeps. ( BTW, it won't hurt to spray some Silicone in and around your horn assembly. there are magnets & such in there !
Good idea on the silicone - thank you. I took the horn apart and the internals were remarkably clean so I blew some air through the innards and knocked it on the workbench a few times to knock the little surface rust and dust loose. Adjusted the screw on the back after replacing the button and column wire to get a decent "beep beep" sound. For what it's worth the M38 set up is MUCH better with the rod going through the column rather than the wire, better grounding, etc IMO. Anyway, it's working. Note: some old threads on this site helped a lot in troubleshooting the horn itself. Good info as always!
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