Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Focker, Jul 23, 2016.
Son drove it to church in his dress blues. He is home on 10 day leave.
He absolutely loves the Jeep.
Maybe, wouldn't be as interesting as the 3B build.
This one would be a plain old restoration with a few mods just for style.
I HATE when that Happens ! ( That was my favorite arm, Dammit ! )
Almost done. Replacing all fluids today. Tightsteer yesterday. Still a few final small details left. Test drive soon. Before and aft pic attached.
Looks super nice!
Love the simple clean look of the dash (mines the same way)
Looks amazing. Great job on your build
Nice....Very Nice , Lee. BTW, I think the Black brought the color deeper toward the buckskin you were looking for .
Looks fantastic, Lee! I really like that color. Was that the original dash? It looks great plain and simple, the way it was intended to be
First of all, I must thank this forum and some members who were particularly helpful. Dash is not original. PO made Swiss cheese out of it. I like it plain and simple. I agree, the black really works with the color. It still reminds me of my previously owned one just like this, except for the buckskin. BTW - how do I make this $&#@(*# horn work? New everything. Should the wire from the harness have power? Thanks everyone.
Horns on Ross steering have a hot (+) wire fed through the small hole in the bottom of the Ross box, directly in line with the column. It feeds up through the center of the column to under the horn button. There should be a metal contact button under the rubber button inside a plastic insulator. the metal plate that is under the rubber button grounds the power from the conact to a brass cup that surrounds the plastic insulator. The service manual has a diagram of it.
Lee.... Just finished my horn R&R . I learned to start with the horn itself and work backwards . Take power direct from battery , to see if the horn goes ' BMeep - BMeep '. Mine didn't and after changing out a perfectly good relay, I found an OEM 12V on ebay for $50 ! . Not to be a wise guy but ,the wire at the connecting harness by the horn should only have power when the horn button is pressed. Then , if it does not , and the relay is good, the Horn button contacts can be a little dicey. The spring type copper or brass filament contact strips get tarnished & weak and sometimes that's were the problem is.
Hope this may help. Let me know how you make out . BTW , your Painting skills are to be admired , Sir!
That's certainly not stock for an ECJ5; No relay from the factory. There's a 12 volt feed to one side of the horn, then the other terminal of the horn goes to the aforementioned wire going up the steering column where the metal disk grounds it when pressed thus completing the circuit to ground.
I humbly apologize to all for my reply. I was trying to help, but I am not apples to apples, with this custom power plant build / swap of mine . Your very correct , Howard . I do not have a stock wiring harness in my '75 CJ5. When will I learn to just follow & learn ?
No problem, I've put my foot in it a few times here
Thank you. You just showed me the problem. I have no relay, but the terminal on my new harness has no voltage. (I checked that). So, I just need to run a new power wire. Thanks
Oh, not much of a painter. Did it outside in my homemade plastic booth. 6 small bugs and some orange peel. But, It cost me less than $100. Looks good at 30 feet in the rain.
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