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Warloch's 62 Cj5 Build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Warloch, Jun 3, 2019.

  1. Jul 1, 2019
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    The box is mounted on the frame, but there is the rest to do on it. I'll try to give you some advanced warning on when I'll do it so you can drop by if you want.

    I'll do the same with the pedal setup since I know Doug is interested in it.
     
  2. Jul 1, 2019
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    Its a good idea, but I'm probably not going to keep this rig. Either the niece will buy it when it's done, or I'll be selling it - at least that's the plan right now. I've got two flatties I like, and the parts and such for another that I'll probably hang on to.

    Then I have to fit building a 50 Chevy in there somewhere :)
     
  3. Jul 1, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    thanks, sounds good...other than my questionable welding skills, I get boxing the frame and mounting the box on the inner frame rail. Kind of interested to see how you work the steering shaft and column geometry, although I think you have said you use the Flaming River (?) or Ididit column...I am more likey to re-use my existing column and cut-off the worm gear etc. Kind of interested to see how one works through the problem solving....Unless something unusual happens, steering upgrade will be my next big project - maybe in about a year.
     
  4. Jul 6, 2019
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    Well - we get the parts lined up and you could come down and it would take us about a day to put a Saginaw in ;) then you wouldn't have to trust your welding...
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  5. Jul 6, 2019
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    End of week update - not sure I'll get back out till next weekend as I'll be in the Bay Area most of next week for work.

    Spent a couple hours with my friends Map Gas, Bucket o Water, and then Hammer and Dolly came by. Popped the rear corners out that had been pushed in as the PO put AL corners on the tub since he couldn't fix the metal.

    While not perfect, they are good enough for a wheeling rig. Someone could finish them with a shrink disc and skim coat if they wanted later.



    Started to lay out the front floors and new hat channels - to say things were not fitting would be a large understatement. The marks on the side of the tub from where the old channels were just didn't line up the mounting holes like I knew they needed to be.

    Plan B - Since the hat channels come in 3 sections, I'm going to lay them out on the frame to the mounting holes. Weld them together. Put the floor pans in. Then put the Hat Channels in on top (all with the tub upside down).


    Cut the old Toe board supports out... the toe boards just are not that good so I'll probably just replace them since I have the metal and I'll have it all apart.

    I may need to get my two post hoist put back in place to make the fitting and matching to the frame go easier. Guess I have some planning to do before I get too far on the next steps.
     
    Danefraz, Muzikp and 3b a runnin like this.
  6. Jul 15, 2019
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    Short update this week - I did a couple other things to prep for the next phase where I start fitting the tub on the frame. I put my hoist posts back in on the new pads I had poured last fall. Even though they are 'portable'...

    Put the channels on the frame and did some cutting to get things to line up and fit right.

    Then I did some evaluating on the toe boards and fire wall - decided to cut the Driver side out. The rust left on the floors were just more than I wanted to leave since everything else is getting redone.

    Started to figure what I'll do with the firewall - no real reason to leave it stock as the body is from a Fhead and it's getting the V6.

    Sorry Doug - I may cheat and move the setback for the motor in the fire wall over a couple inches as it makes fitting the swinging pedals MUCH easier. Probably not how you will want to do it. I had considered a different pedal set so I could bend the brake arm, or even looking at he pedals from the Roxors. I think I'm going to just go full Wilwood on this like I did the blue '49 as it will be easy with a little firewall work.

    Took a scrap copper pipe and made a flange to slip inside the rails to help fill all the holes - I'll take a pic of that for next time.
     
    Danefraz and Focker like this.
  7. Jul 15, 2019
    givemethewillys

    givemethewillys Sponsor Sponsor

    New Kent, VA
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    Hey warloch, great job so far, I'm enjoying following along. I have a quick question re: your hat channels. Are you adding wooden blocks to them like the originals, or do you have a different plan?

    Sorry if this was addressed already, I must have missed it. Carry on!
     
  8. Jul 16, 2019
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    All wood is being removed and one of the main reasons I'm replacing all the hat channels. Classic Ent uses a metal crush sleeve (or anti crush) at the attachment points where the bolts go through the hat channels. You can see them in the pic where the hat channel is on the frame if you zoom in on the picture. On top of that - the channels are made from slightly thicker metal so the added support isn't really needed any longer.

    I'll be painting the insides before install, and may foam fill them, but not sure yet. There is always the question of moisture trapped vs leave enough air flow so it dries and does not really rust.
     
  9. Jul 19, 2019
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member Sponsor

    exploring the...
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    No foam. Speaking as a bodyman. Everything I have seen with foam in it has rust issues most new cars are full of that flammable stuff. fluid film.
     
  10. Jul 19, 2019
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    Thanks - that is what my gut was saying as well. Drill some holes - flow some paint - let it dry with no wood inside...
     
  11. Jul 19, 2019
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member Sponsor

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    Coat with fluid film last makes kinda a mess but creeps into every nook and cranny without direct weather contact the film lasts a long time.
     
  12. Jul 21, 2019
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    Time for another update - it was HOT this weekend, especially on Saturday. Kinda limited my efforts as I needed to keep the breeze down in the shop if I was going to weld. So the plan became to get things ready as Sunday was to be cooler.

    Finished cleaning up the firewall - pulled most of the 'holey' metal out along with what was left of the inside toe boards. Nice clean slate to work from.

    Next was fitting the front floor pans. Not as easy as it sounds without the toe boards, halves, or hat channels to use for reference. Then I figured out the one pan was off by at least a half inch. A little metal work with a hammer and clamps got it lined up.

    Did I mention you need a few clamps to do this - I added 5 of the smaller ones and 2 larger reach to my collection for this work.

    To figure where to put the hat channels, I measured on the frame from the mounting holes in the bed on the frame cross member to the inside mounting holes on the hat channels - I got 33 1/2" and used that for a reference. In the end - it all seemed to fit with a minimum of whacking with a hammer :D


    Big point in the build for me, feels like its starting to become a tub again. I'll be putting in the rear tire frame member into the Fender, Filling Holes (still have LOTS to do), and then fitting onto the frame to start fabbing up the firewall and toe boards.
     
  13. Jul 22, 2019
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Member

    Louisville, Ky
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    I used self drilling metal framing screws to hold the metal together before welding
     
  14. Jul 22, 2019
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    Did that on the section of hat channels on the P side I couldn't reach with the clamps. Advantage of the clamps is fewer holes to fill... I have enough of those to do as it is :banghead:
     
  15. Aug 13, 2019
    RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Sutton Bay
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    Looking incredible! I’m in the process of doing the same thing to a 1971. I initially did not install my floor boards correctly, so I cut them loose and started fresh! I think I’ve got it at this point.

    You mentioned you had to do some cutting on your hat channels to get them to work. Would you mind sharing what you had to modify? I’ve purchased the same channels and can’t get the mounting hole anywhere near where they need to be to mount the tub on the frame.
     
  16. Aug 14, 2019
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    In post 25 you can see where I laid them out on the frame. I dropped bolts into the holes on the hat channels into the frame mounts. Post 26 shows it together - what I did was cut the middle arch hat channel (they come in three pieces) to 'fit' into the alignment from the two sides as they sat on the frame and simply used it to connect the two sides together. I trimmed one side down a couple inches and the other just needed some cuts on the flats that fit the two hat channels onto the floor sections - make them line up - smooth them out - weld them in place.
     
  17. Aug 15, 2019
    RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Sutton Bay
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    Thanks for the info. I think if I had cut a couple inches on the forward section of the drivers side support they would have lined up. Sure would have saved me some time. I spent the last two days trying to fit the holes in the hat channels to the frame mounts. Everything was so far off, I had to undo some welds and slide one part of one side and realign. Finally got it welded together, only one hole lined up, going to drill new a couple new holes.

    Like you said at this stage, I’m going to flatten them out weld them in place and drill some holes.
     
  18. Aug 15, 2019
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    Be sure to sleeve the mount holes in the hat channels or they will crush on you.
     
  19. Aug 15, 2019
    RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Sutton Bay
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    Thanks, that is one of tomorrow’s tasks before I weld them on. Did the pre drilled holes in your rear panel line up with your frame? Mine do not.
     
  20. Aug 16, 2019 at 12:20 PM
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member Sponsor

    Falcon, CO
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    One set did - the other didn't. Not much of an issue for me as I'll be redoing the back to put a rear fuel tank in for the FI on the build.

    Hope to get back to things this next week. Too many sick people in the house the past couple weeks (including me - now the wife is still bad), and filling holes in the tub is not 'interesting' to add to the build thread :)
     

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