Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by ITLKSEZ, Aug 20, 2015.
Does it tell you before or after they fail . Nice work as usual.
Right? I think I could tell when my brakes are failing.
I’m using it more as a junction block, but if the sensor is there...
I found an oversight. I built the front axle without the calipers installed. I threw them on this morning and found that the inlet port dumps really close to the steering arm. I’m not sure I’ll be able to fit the hose in there without using a 90° fitting and shooting it up toward the top knuckle pivot.
It’s hard to tell in the pic, but the edge of the arm easily clears the hole, but the arm is angled. A rubber hose would have definite contact.
It’s irritating, because caliper removal after the brake line is on will either require arm removal or line removal. Maybe with a 90° fitting, I’ll be able to clearance the arm so it can slide past.
Also, I really despise running hard brake lines. I really struggle to find the patience.
Front hard lines are roughed in.
Rotate the caliper brackets 180°?
I like where you’re going, but the caliper bracket *is* the knuckle.
I could swap left/right calipers, but I’d have to remove them and turn them 90° to bleed them. It might be the best option at this point.
Is there enough meat in the caliper to tap a new inlet on the top surface?
I’m looking in the direction of using a banjo bolt in the double flare hole. I’ll need a special m10x1 banjo bolt that I don’t have on hand, and I’ll need to machine a flat sealing edge on the caliper housing. Then it’s just a matter of sitting in front of the Rockauto catalog until I find the right hoses.
Did I read something about vegan jerky here?, awesome skills!
Make an adapter to rotate the caliper
It can’t go up or down because of the knuckle bearings. I can’t move them to the front because they’ll hit the coil mounts at full lock.
I finally got the hard lines on the frame finished today.
I’ll try to explain what I’m trying here...
(pre-ABS?) Volvo cars utilized a complex network of failsafes in their braking.
-The master cylinder has two equal plungers with no F/R compensations built in. Both plungers supply equal fluid at all times. -Each plunger feeds two circuits (four ports on the MC).
-The Volvo front rotors are twin piston, and the pistons are independent of each other, being fed by two brake hoses to each caliper.
-The front MC circuit, for example, will feed one of the left and one of the right front pistons, and one rear brake. The rear circuit will feed the other front pistons and the other rear brake.
With this setup, even with one of the two circuits failed, you’ll still have one rear brake at 100% and both front brakes at 50%. This is the reason for the brake failure lamp. Even with only half the brake system working, it’s possible you could not realize there’s a real problem.
With that in mind, I went about my brake setup a little unconventionally. I blocked off one front and one rear circuit, and I’ll run the remaining 2 lines to the brake failure sensor as a junction block. From there, the two circuits split to feed the LF/RR wheels, and the RF/LR wheels.
The front Toyota calipers are 4-piston monsters, and the rear Isuzu Rodeo calipers are single-piston. The difference in piston surface area *should negate the need for a proportioning valve.
So, from the sensor, I ran two lines front and two lines to their opposing back sides.
Through the frame holes made for this...
And back around the muffler to two separate rubber lines.
Some of the '90s Land Rovers did the same thing feeding separate pistons in the same caliper from different ports on the master cylinder. Complicated, but redundant; Safety!
I'll like to see how you machine the calipers to accept banjo washers, if you go this route.
As always, very nice work!
Donny, I was typing as you posted that.
I researched the threads/pitch I needed for these banjo bolts and located a part number through O'Reilly’s website. I called them, and they had two of them within 2 hours. They were $4 each. Awesome! Picked them up last night.
I had to machine the faces of these caliper ports flat for the banjo fittings to seal. They were pitted badly. I hit them with some sandpaper just to see what I was working with...
I made a tool out of a flare fitting, two washers and some sandpaper. I cranked down on the fitting and turned the big washer. It took a few pieces of sandpaper to get them to enough bare metal to seal, but it made a nice perpendicular cut.
Then I had to cut a big chunk out of the steering arm for the new fitting and hose to pass for removal. Oversight fixed! I’ll have some custom hoses made up when I get a funds refill.
Nice job! I always like your outside-the-lines solutions.
I like it...
Wow, just wow!
I took a break from Halloween costumes this morning and decided it’s time to strip it down to the frame, box it, fill holes, finish the welding, and paint it. The front frame horns and bumper are still a big question mark, but I’ll be able to repaint them in-place easily enough.
Finish weld that driveshaft!!!where did the engine and transmission go?/
You were never very good at Where’s Waldo?
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