Value Of This Ramsey On Cl?

Discussion in 'Winches' started by FinoCJ, Jun 15, 2016.

  1. Jun 21, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    This is the REP 8000 I am interestested in...hope to check it out today and hook it up to a battery to see if it works. Probably require some mount modification - but any of them probably will. Price looks good assuming it works.

    Ramsey 8000# winch for sale
     
  2. Jun 21, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Well...I now own an REP 8000 (as shown in previous post). Its gonna be a bit before I clean it up and figure some mounting brackets. It has a 36 inch long (wide) base plate that it is mounted to, so will have to cut the ends off and find/make some angle brackets to go down the side of the frame horns. The dual solenoid set-up connection wires have been extended so I can mount the solenoid box under the hood somewhere and help protect them from the elements. From markings on the solenoids - it looks to be from Sept of '88. Its fully functional in terms of powering in and out (with no load on a 12V 10A source). Free spool works but takes a lot of oomph to get it to move - may need some cleaning and checking in the clutch housing. Cable is not perfect - was stored on the drum kind of messy - but no fraying or kinks. A couple of 'flat' spots though. I think with a little TLC (and not much at that), it should be a great made in the USA reliable winch for years to come.
     
  3. Jun 21, 2016
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    That is a really good little winch. I always try to use a snatchblock because it cuts the load in half on the winch. An 8274 doubled is still faster then most every other winch out there.
     
  4. Jun 24, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    So the REP 8000 came with a generic mounting plate that I am fitting to my ECJ5. I am making some angle brackets to attach to the sides of the frame horns. I have 4 holes in my frame horns - not sure what is original and what is modified or what...and it doesn't really matter too much as I am making the angle brackets to fit the existing holes - here are the 4 four holes (they are the same on both sides): the two smaller ones are 1/2" and the two larger.
    [​IMG]

    The brackets I am making are use the two smaller 1/2" holes and bolt through the bracket and frame - but I could add a 3rd bolt in the middle through the larger hole in the center. What do you think - do I need that 3rd mount bolt or is it good with the two shown. I think the Warn mount brackets just use two bolts to mount the bracket through the side of the frame.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Jun 28, 2016
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member Sponsor

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    the wifes has two in the frame on each side and two down through the top of the angle,looks just like your setup. has been that way for five years or so no failure yet.
     
  6. Jun 29, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    thanks
     
  7. Jun 9, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

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    Reviving my Ramsey REP 8000 winch thread...I got a couple questions and will be working on this over the summer.

    1) What are people recommending/using for a fuse and/or switch between the +battery and winch solenoid. The couple times I put it to use, I ended up wired directly to the battery post, but don't like the risk leaving it connected all the time. With the way the ramsey terminals are on the side of the motor and how little clearance I have with my tow hook on that side, its easy to accidentally brush against and spark the terminals. A breaker type switch would probably be ideal to both control the connection as well as protect against overdrawing amperage.

    2) During a weighted pull on it yesterday to get through a minor snow drift - it stopped working. The solenoids are clicking when I operate the wired remote, but the motor doesn't turn in or out. How do I differentiate a motor from a solenoid problem?

    thanks
     
  8. Jun 9, 2017
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    I put a regular cole herse battery disconnect switch on winches. Many years ago I saw a Jeep go through a creek and use the Jeep in front of him to stop. It broke the solenoid cover and before he could disconnect his battery, that 8274 destroyed itself, the bumper and caused a whole lot of heartbreak. Ever since that I put a switch on every one I install. If you remove the three leads to the motor, you can check the motor by itself. Before doing anything, I would double check to make sure that the winch motor is grounding well though. Very common for corrosion to build up depending on your climate, and cause exactly the what you are describing after sitting for a long while.
     
  9. Jun 9, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

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    That cole hersee is what I was looking as well - one rated for 300A which should be appropriate for the old REP 8000.

    This old REP 8000 only has two leads - I believe they both are positive - one powers in and one powers out depending on solenoid switch. Its a two solenoid switch set-up. Or am I completely wrong. But how does it ground then...must ground through the case? The solenoid box has a large gauge ground wire that I put to the frame ground. Is there a way I should try to ground the motor case? Here is a pic - sorry the tow hook kind of blocks the view:
     
  10. Jun 9, 2017
    gunner

    gunner Member

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    Fino- any chance of getting a few pics of how you mounted the winch and fairlead? I picked up one of these at the Puyallup swap meet. Yet to do anything with it but thinking of putting it on the DJ, which has a manual Saginaw steering box on it.
     
  11. Jun 9, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

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    I used a generic used mounting plate that I got with the winch. It was set up on a YJ and bolted to the top of the framerails on the YJ. I cut the extra length off the plate, and quick fabbed some angle iron brackets to mount through the side of the ecj5 frame rails. See if I can link this correctly to the correct post:
    Fino's 1970 mini build thread

    FWIW - I am running this with ross steering so can't comment on how the saginaw box would fit. But as long as the box doesn't stick up above the top of the bumper on the inside of the driver frame rail - this should sit over top with no issues as it goes over the top of the frame rails.
     
  12. Jun 9, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

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    Okay so it seems like I should make sure I have this wired correctly - Thinking I have a grounding issue. So, how do these old 2 terminal motors work - all they newer REP motors have three terminals (1, 2, A). I assume positive power goes to 1 or 2 (in or out) and grounds through A? I assume the old 2 terminals ground through the case. Can I add an additional ground from one of the screw heads that hold the motor together to the frame?
     
  13. Jun 9, 2017
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    For the three terminal units "A" would be the armature, always = 12 volts when running, return to the battery is via grounded case. The other two would be the field terminals- the solenoids will apply the voltage to one terminal & ground to the other to reel in & reverse that to spool out.

    The only information I can find for two terminal units are for permanent magnet motors that don't have field terminals- they reverse the juice to the armature for in/out- no ground return.

    But it seems to me that the PM motors would be newer vintage than the ones with the field coils.

    H.
     
  14. Jun 9, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

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    Thanks Howard ...this is the 2 terminal permanent magnet motor...so somehow I am loosing either connection of power inside the motor or its not grounding correctly.
     
  15. Jun 9, 2017
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

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    Hook jumper cables to the two terminals- if it spins it's your solenoids that are bad.

    H.
     
  16. Jun 9, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

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    Put my voltmeter on the terminals - definitely getting 12V to either terminal when operating the switch, so the solenoids are working great. One thing checked off.

    Pulled the motor off and put it directly to 12V battery source with jumper cables - NOTHING. So something in the motor is the issue. Gonna start to disassemble and see how bad the brushes and contacts are. I just took apart and cleaned my evaporative cooler fan motor - but that was series wound. This is PM. We'll see what it looks like...can't screw it up anymore than it is.
     
  17. Jun 10, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

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    Had to beat the motor to hell to get it all to come apart, but I kind of realized as I worked into the project the motor was probably toast. One of the through going hold-together bolts was seized completely so I had to grind the head off. Lots of white and yellow powdery dust sprinkles keep falling out. Separating the end cap from the cylindrical body with magnets started as a pry and turned into a beat it apart with large crow bar. I could tell it has had a lot of water in it. I finished taking it apart just to get a good look and learn what I could and maybe salvage a few parts. The pics don't look as bad as it really is...1" long flakes of rust rot and dirt fell out as it came apart. The end cap is half covered in mineralization. I'll take another look in the morning - maybe I can pull the winding out and wire brush the magnets and housing out etc, but I think its toast. I wouldn't sleep too well at night knowing how iffy it probably would be - especially for a last chance self recovery piece as critical as the winch. I may have a local CL lead on an old unused ramsey PM motor. Prefer to go that route as the new replacements are series wound and require a different solenoid set-up.[​IMG] Anyone here got one they are looking to part with?

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  18. Jun 11, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    So I think I can finally determine the value of the CL winch :D

    For the winch motor, I went with the replacement option. From my CL winch and accessory searches over the years, I knew of an add for a 1990's Ramsey REP 8000 motor for PM winch (2 terminal) that was still tagged and boxed sitting on someone's shelf that they had ordered and kept as a spare. I had attempted to contact this guy a year or more ago when I got my winch for cheap off CL - there was some concern the original motor may have not been good. It got pretty hot just spooling stuff in and out and I had to futz with the terminals to get it too work (I also remember now after taking it apart on Fri why I didn't take it apart originally - It was so corroded and seized together that I would have probably destroyed it. So I ended up destroying it on Fri when I took it apart[​IMG]). I thought then about just getting this motor as a replacement. Luckily, the guy still had it and I bought it - probably paid a bit of a premium, but I needed it more than he needed to sell it, and its an identical, made in the USA, original manufacturer replacement.

    First pic is the new motor. 2nd pic is it freshly installed on the winch - which I was able to do without removing the remainder of the winch from the jeep - note the extra cable that I had to wrap around the bumper last week when I couldn't reel it back in. 3rd pic is the cable neatly spooled using the new winch motor. Didn't even get warm spooling. Still have to put my tow hook back on the winch plate but its looking ready to test out again this week!
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     

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