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V6 Dauntless Distributor, Missing Small Spring

Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by Donnie, Apr 13, 2019 at 1:07 PM.

  1. Apr 13, 2019 at 1:07 PM
    Donnie

    Donnie Member

    saskatoon,canada
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    its backfiring from the carb so i took off the distributor cap and noticed i'am missing one of the small springs on the arms, is this why its back firing and running rough, it starts up fine. And where can i get a small spring like that
    cheers
     
  2. Apr 13, 2019 at 1:35 PM
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Got a pic? Also, is this a delco, prestolite or HEI distributor? Are you talking one of the springs on the distributor cap hold down arms? It doesn't take much to hold a dist cap in place....guessing the backfire issue is more related to maybe having the wrong cap (even fire vs odd fire) or wires connected to wrong terminals. Looking at your other thread (68 Cj5 V6 Dauntless Distributor Cap And Rotor Loose) it wasn't clear which distributor you had or which cap. I have a delco distributor, and had some issues with FLAPS getting me the wrong cap a number of times....It took a bit to figure it out - read here (posts 19-26) - it might also explain why your cap wasn't fitting right in your previous thread:
    Distributor Install
     
  3. Apr 13, 2019 at 1:54 PM
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor Sponsor

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    I'm guessing he's missing an advance spring. These are available included in an advance curve kit. It could have an affect on how the engine runs.
    -Donny
     
  4. Apr 13, 2019 at 1:54 PM
    Donnie

    Donnie Member

    saskatoon,canada
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    how can you tell what cap i have or setup
     

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  5. Apr 13, 2019 at 1:55 PM
    Donnie

    Donnie Member

    saskatoon,canada
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    here's the missing spring
     

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  6. Apr 13, 2019 at 1:57 PM
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    looks like a delco distributor with odd-fire cap and you are missing a mechanical advance spring....while that is not great...I still don't think that alone would cause backfire out of the carb...just to ask, have you checked the timing or verified the rotor points at your #1 plug when at TDC?
     
  7. Apr 14, 2019 at 10:08 AM
    Donnie

    Donnie Member

    saskatoon,canada
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    gonna try and find a timing light today, i wanna replace the distributor with a HEI one off of eBay, do i have to do any mods to make them work or are they drop in and go, or what would you guys recommend
     
  8. Apr 14, 2019 at 10:33 AM
    Focker

    Focker I Hate Being Bi-Polar, It's Awesome. Staff Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    It's almost drop and go, but you have to grind one of the bolts on the manifold.

    Here's some info - Which Hei Distributor To Choose

    Go to Google and search - Ecj5 hei
     
  9. Apr 14, 2019 at 10:36 AM
    Focker

    Focker I Hate Being Bi-Polar, It's Awesome. Staff Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    From another thread...

    The Bolt and hole on the drivers side front of the intake manifold will interfere with the body and cap of the HEI distributor. the best way to determine how much you need to grind away is to remove the old dist and try to put the HEI in, don't worry about getting the timing right at first because you will need to test fit several times before you get the clearance right. grind away a little at a time until you can install the dist and cap without hitting the manifold/bolt.

    Note: there are 4 lugs holding the cap on the HEI, I had to remove one of them from the cap in order for my HEI to turn (set timing).
    the other 3 will hold the cap securely.
     
  10. Apr 17, 2019 at 8:52 AM
    Donnie

    Donnie Member

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    wow, i was cleaning up the garage and of course on the other side of the garage i find the little spring on the floor that i was missing, so now i got the distributor back together and got a timing light. I have never used a timing light before, i watched a couple of videos on youtube, i see my timing marks and the marks on the harmonic balancer, got my + and - on the battery and the one that goes onto the #1 spark plug wire and have taken the vacuum line off the distributor, the timing gun has a dial on the back that has degrees on it, when the motor is running i can turn this dial on the back of the timing gun and the mark on the harmonic balancer will move up or down, how do i know where to set this dial on my gun. so far i'am i doing this right, And just to make sure iam setting this dauntless right it should be 5 degree from TDC
     
  11. Apr 17, 2019 at 8:59 AM
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Although not absolutely critical, I would plug that vacuum line when running the timing light.

    correct - 5 degree before top dead center is factory spec for delco distributor.
     
  12. Apr 17, 2019 at 9:00 AM
    Donnie

    Donnie Member

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    what about this dial on the timing gun
     
  13. Apr 17, 2019 at 9:04 AM
    Donnie

    Donnie Member

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    so do i set the timing at 5 degrees on the timing gun and then adjust the distributor timing when the engine is running back to 0 on the marks, if that makes sense lol
     
  14. Apr 17, 2019 at 9:07 AM
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    You can set the dial on the gun to 5BTDC and then turn the distributor until the timing mark on the crank flashes at 0 on the scale....or you can leave the timing light dial at zero, and turn the distributor until the timing mark flashes at 5 (above the zero) on the scale.
     
  15. Apr 17, 2019 at 9:08 AM
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    yes - that will work.
     
  16. Apr 17, 2019 at 9:12 AM
    Donnie

    Donnie Member

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    nice, thank you so very much for the fast reply, learning something new every day.
     
  17. Apr 17, 2019 at 9:21 AM
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    I never used a timing light until I bought my jeep as well...learning this stuff is part of the process (and fun I think). Once you get the initial timing set, the you can check to make sure the mechanical advance mechanism is working (the weights with the little springs) and check the vac advance is also functioning. And assuming you have points inside the distributor - you may want to check dwell as well. All part of the standard distributor and timing tune-up procedure. Good luck...I am heading out for the day, but keep posting questions and people will chime in...
     
  18. Apr 17, 2019 at 9:34 AM
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Conflicting reviews out there about dial-back timing lights. There has to be a circuit in there that "calculates" a delay that corresponds to the degree setting, so the the lamp flashes at the calculated zero instead of when the spark goes to the engine. The argument against the dial thingee seems compelling to me. I'd just leave it at zero and go from the marks on the damper and pointer, or even better, glue on a timing tape. There's got to be a PDF out there that will print out a timing tape for your diameter damper. Use some good glue ... https://www.amazon.com/3M-86234-Super-Multipurpose-Adhesive/dp/B01MFA2EEE/

    Tachometer/Dwell meter is a good thing to have ... another garage sale item, if you can find one. Moderd dwell meters seem overwhelmingly to be add-ons to digital multimeters. I would prefer an analog meter for this.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2019 at 9:40 AM
  19. Apr 17, 2019 at 10:34 PM
    NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever Sponsor

    Far Nor Cal
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    I like to use dial backs, but for total advance timing. I'm rarely concerned with initial timing and have actually found with todays fuel a 10 to 20% added advance (if 5* is spec, set at 6 or 7). Total timing is set 35* on gun and then rev motor to bring in advance to full and set marks to 0*.
     
    mike starck likes this.

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