Torx Bolt Removal

Hey guys, I just wanted to throw this question out there BEFORE I get started. We are at a point with my son’s ‘85 CJ7 project, where I want to strip the body of all hardware that is held on with torx bolts. I’m a very resourceful guy an I just want to see what techniques some of you have had success with, before I possibly strip a 36 year old torx fastener. Thank you for responding.

 

I just found this helpful video. Good stuff in it.

 

T50?...if so its pretty tough to destroy

 

I guess I should have been more precise with my question. Not so much the size of torx but the techniques used with removing the36 year old, painted over hard ridden fastener. I don’t understand the logic behind these torx fasteners. I have a 1955 CJ5, with zero torx bolts, many more years of paint and hard times on every fastener and not one that was an issue like the stupid torx screws holding the windshield hinges on my son’s younger Jeep.

 

I've found it's easy to strip the bit on tough torx bolts in my YJ. Even the big ones. Maybe especially the big ones.

Use preemptive measures, such as penetrating oil, and hammering the head sharply beforehand, perhaps over a period of days. Pre-clean the torx cavity in the bolt bead. Use a fresh 'sharp' tool bit to reduce 'walk-out.' During removal, it may even help to try an application of tightening torque, to break the bond.

 

In my experience, the torx bolts on the jeep windshields are fine, but the rust inside the frame seizes them up. I have stripped them trying to get them off. If they don't want to come off, you're going to destroy the frame. BTDT.

 

I've had good luck with

impact driver

heat and an impact driver

left handed drill bit

good luck, Ron

 

i usually weld a fender washer to the stripped torx bolt then weld a nut to the fender washer some canning wax on the hot welded nut and bolt remove while hot.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I’m just trying to figure out, who at Jeep thought these were a smart choice. I guess the Jeep engineers were more concerned with the aerodynamics of our beloved bricks on wheels, than the thought that one may actually want to take the door hinge off some day.

 

This has been a battle even in my 04. My technique is set the bit in the home and give a few good raps with a hammer, then break it free. Use hood torque bits. I’ve noticed when I first started my cheapy auto parts store torque but splines has begun to twist.

 

Trying to understand what the canning wax is for?

 

He may have meant to type "candle wax." It's a method of loosing rusty bolts. The candle wax will work it's way into the hot threads to help break the rust bond. Many say it works. I have never tried it. My go to penetrant is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone, well shaken before each use.

I agree with your dislike to the torx type fasteners. I'm not a fan. Impact drivers, mentioned above, always helped me getting these out.

 

I've always had the best luck with the old fashioned hammer-style impact driver on those. Penetrating oil and heat, if possible, before hand.

 

I feel very strongly about torx fasteners, and whatever engineering school dropout that thought they were a good idea.
I was told by a friend that torx fasteners became popular as more automation was used on assembly lines. It's easier for the machinery to install and tighten the torx head.

I don't remember how I removed them on my '85 CJ. I may have resorted to a drill bit and easy out.

 

Canning wax is just plain paraffin wax. Used for sealing jelly jars.

Any wax will do, for melting into seized bolts, lubing the threads.

 

i use canning wax as i have a ton a candle or crayon works too

 

In order of preference, I usually try the following:

1) reasonable amount of muscle without “overdoing it”
2) PB blaster followed by more #1
3) try turning the bolt clockwise just a tad. Sounds counterintuitive to tighten a stuck bolt, but I read it somewhere (possibly in the metalcloak instruction manual when installing my TJ fenders) and it actually works
4) heat followed by #1
5) impact wrench and a prayer

 

I dont mind torx fasteners..if you take a little extra time they arent hard to remove. The first thing to verify is that they are clean on the inside. Your bit needs to reach all the way into the bottom of the fastener. As John said I always rap the end of the socket with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Heat is also your friend but be careful with painted surfaces. Also contrary to belief what holds flat head torx fast in place is not usually the threads themselves but the tapered shape of the head. Dont believe me? Drill out the head of the torx fastener and remove the part..almost every time you can spin the remainder of the fastener out with your fingers.

 

x2, my experience also.