Stock Sparton turn signal (1968) to EZ Wiring (pic)

Here are the unmolested wires on the turn signal:


My assumptions are that ...
a. The brown wire at the bottom jumpered to the top terminal is the brake switch wire, because it would need to light both sides. I'm pretty sure that's correct because if I close the brake switch (or jump it) both rear lights go on.
b. The blue and yellow wires go to the rear and front left, respectively.
c. The orange and (lower) black wires go the rear and front right, respectively.
d. White is the flasher signal, and it's centered so that it can work with either side.
e. (Upper) Black wire obviously lights the bulb and comes from the flasher.
Question 1: Does anyone know any of that to be wrong?

I wired the EZ harness on those assumptions, but I'm getting no flashing. However, I did not mount it. If the switch itself needs to be grounded by mounting it, that would explain no flashing.
Question 2: Does the turn signal switch ground to the column?

I want the original indicator light on the switch to flash. I was thinking of hooking both indicator feeds from the EZ harness to it, but other threads where people talk about diodes and such make me think that might cause "crosstalk" or something.
Question 3: Any guesses on whether both indicators feeds to the same light will work?

Now that I think about that light, I realize that the switch has to at least provide a ground for that bulb. That leans toward the answer to question 2 being Yes.

My right tail light is dimmer than the left. (they are a hardly used pair of replacement tail lights) I'm thinking it's got less of a ground. The mount of the light is through some old bondo. I ran a wire from there to a clean bolt hole a few inches higher, but that didn't change anything.
Question 4: Do you think I'm on the right track on a poor ground connection?

Btw, to counter the non-working hydraulic brake switch(es), I decide to duct tape a push button switch to the surface of the brake pedal. (and I think that's so bad it's good)

TIA
Bill

 

I just had to tear my switch totally apart and clean the contacts and the switch worked just hanging in my hand but the indicator uses the switch mount for ground I believe.

 

The brown wire goes to the brake switch. There is also a brown wire (not in the brake switch cable) that goes to the other side of the brake switch. That second wire will originate at the horn switch or the BAT terminal on the ig switch.

 

Your color coding is correct. As far as dim vs. bright, it could be you have two different bulbs. They do make them with different intensity. If you think you have a bad ground, then install a wire under one of the light housing lugs and run it to good ground at frame. On the signal indicator light, I just pull a small wire along with the rest of them and put a small lug on it to go under the screw that mounts the small light bracket. Then ground the other end to the dash panel. I can then mount the switch to the column with a thin piece of rubber to keep from scratching the paint on the steering tube. Works great.

 

Jay, I might do that teardown. It gave me good info doing that on the heater switch.

Kamel, The EZ harness fortunately comes with one "brake switch power" and another "brake switch" wire. I'm good on that circuit. I'm doing the push-button hack only because I've already redone the brakes and have no desire to replace any more vintage brake lines.

Walt, what do you do the extra wire for? Is that to ground the bulb without relying on the steering column for that?

Thanks guys.

 

About question 3: if you run both signal indicator wires to the same bulb, it will back feed to the other light, so they will blink like your four-ways are on. I tried this same thing. I suppose you could run some diodes, but I have not tried it. I ended up running the indicators to the amp light and oil light in the original speedometer cluster, works great.

 

I found this thread which addresses Question 2 (grounding): http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?98976-Spartan-model-SCS-3R-Turn-Signal

Apparently the switch is grounded through the column, so when I install it it should work. Fingers crossed.

 

Yes the t-sig housing is the ground for the indicator bulb only. You have to scrape the paint off the steering tube for the sig housing to make good ground. I didn't want exposed metal out in the weather to rust, so I ran that separate wire to ground for the indicator light. I didn't have to depend on the T-sig housing to supply the ground.