Should I Buy This Motor?

I have the opportunity to buy a 70's 304. Block, cam, crank, heads, 4bbl intake manifold. Lots of extras. Block is solid.

FROM the seller: The block will come with heads, crank and cam. Also a 4 bbl intake manifold and chrome valve covers. I have a power steering pump with brackets and coffee can with various engine bolts. There may be more I'll just have to lay my eyes on it again.

It will need pistons/rings, oil pan, carb and possibly a valve job on the heads due to a miss that it has.



He only wants $200. How much would it cost to finish out?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rTyPYEu9S6Nhzbwz7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WWNH1nei5rwGtSBx9

 

Sounds like an OK investment to just hold onto and see what happens if you have the space.
I wouldn't jump into a rebuild until an engine is needed.
I think my 4.3 was close to $1500 10 years ago with parts, machine work, balance work, my assembly. A v8 won't be as critical to balance but it is always a good idea.

 

You understand that a 360 will drop in to replace a 304? You need a different flywheel balance, but otherwise it's a direct replacement. The 360 went into (Grand) Wagoneers until 1993, so there are more of them out there than the 304. A 360 has a larger bore with the same crank, different (better) heads with larger valves. Cheapest HP gain for these Jeeps.

I would not invest in a 304 unless I wanted to stay strictly original.

I also think that the T-150 is undersized for a 304.

If you want a core engine to rebuild, I'd say it's an ok price. I'd expect at least $1000 for parts and machining to do what you want to do. I'd guess it'll be hard to do this yourself today and save any money over a factory-built engine. Talk to your machine shop. New pistons are the most expensive part.

 

Thank you both. Is the T-176 and Dana 300 compatible with the 360?

 

Sure. A T-176 is also not the strongest you could have. Easy on the impact load; no burnouts! The only difference between the 360 and the 304 is the bore. Same crankshaft, exact same external dimensions. The different pistons changes the internal balance some, so you need the 360 flywheel and harmonic balancer. Otherwise, it's a total bolt-in.

 

I pulled my running 304 and built a 360. The horsepower is close to the same as far as the stock specifications go. My 360 makes maximum HP and torque at around 1000 RPM than the 304. The motor just keeps rolling.The low end torque in the 360 is considerably greater. For my trail rig it was a good investment. Both motors will cost the same to rebuild.

1973 304CI
Horsepower net:

112 kW / 152 PS / 150 hp (SAE net)

/ 4200

Torque net:

332 Nm / 245 ft-lb

/ 2500 RPM

1985 360 CI

Horsepower net:

107.5 kW / 146 PS / 144 hp (SAE net)
/ 3200

Torque net:

380 Nm / 280 ft-lb
/ 1500 RPM

 

That engine looks suprisingly clean, maybe recently rebuilt? The cam/lifters are a throw-away item if this will be rebuilt. What 4 bbl manifold, OEM or aftermarket aluminum? The OEM manifold weighs a ton, and really doesn't perform very well. Aftermarket is the way to go if you choose a 4 bbl.
As mentioned previously, a 360 is a way better place to start for a core engine to build. Same costs to build as a 304, but noticably "more" engine. That, and the 360 is more common to find, thought most come with a flexplate for the automatic. 360 flywheels are out there, but a bit harder to find.
Wait and find a 360 to start building, and one thats complete with a pan, timing cover, balancer/pulleys, etc.
-Donny

 

I would stay away....you're going into a 3000-4000$ rebuilt minimum. Part are not getting cheaper in the amc world.

 

Enough that the purchase price is irrelevant.

 

I have a couple longblock 360's (1984), and a shortblock with most if not all the fixings if you are not too far east. I am in DFW area. I am done with the collection stage on my 360 I have been rebuilding slowly to replace my 304. Longblocks $200 each. One has a auto trans and transfer case attached still. Shortblock with all components $100. PM if you want to chat via phone.