Servicing Rear Wheel Bearings???

Obviously I’ve never had a axle apart. Now I just got this far.





So, now do I have to disconnect the brake line, remove the backing plate and pull the axle?

If I’m all correct on that, What would be the next steps?

As always, thanks for your replies.
Learning as I go.

 

We all learn as we go. Looks like you have the hard part over with, by getting the hub off. Yes on the brake line and backing plate. Then the axle should come out. Pay attn to shims if you are putting the same bearings back.

 

I do have a manual. But I don’t know if I have tapered or flanged axles or if they use grease or are lubed from the differential oil?

 

Cool. What parts are typically replaced?

 

Depending on the bank account and intended use, this is the time to consider installing full floating axles. There are plenty of threads on it. If you decide to go that route, pm me.

 

I removed the nut and it came off very easy.

 

I have of course heard the term “full floating “ but no idea if I want/need them?

 

And take pics. When I have not, I have regretted not.

 

Bing, bang, boom...

 

That should about do it. Tapered axle rebuild

I put it back together this morning and Torqued the nuts. I’ll get back into it over the weekend.

Get your answers ready- I’ll do the Dana30 front next. Got a set of videos for that Tim?

 

Nope

 

I'm getting a pretty good idea how this all goes together between the manual the videos and the parts list on Kaiser.

Couple questions...

1. Should my axle have grease zerk like this? where?

Rear Axle Wheel Bearing Grease Zerk Fitting Fits 46-71 Jeep & Willys

2. Will I need a puller for seal that is inside of the outer bearing? How about reinstalling that inner seal?

3. If I take this all apart to inspect the bearings and just grease it and put it back together will I need new seals or anything?

4. The video didn't show but he said he put the bearing on the axle with a press. Is a press needed to remove or install the bearing onto the axle?

5. Any more tips, ideas or tools that I need?

 

Assuming we are still talking the Dana 44 tapered rear, in order:

1. Some axles had grease zerks for the wheel bearings, some do not.
2. Many ways to get an old seal out, but a good slide hammer set is the easiest. I bought this OTC set a year or so ago and I honestly don't know how I lived without it before. Money very well spent, it has tons of uses. A bearing driver set is great for installing seals, the Harbor Freight set will work. I have a large set with like 50 different sizes in it, that comes in very handy.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4579-9-W...t=&hvlocphy=9026058&hvtargid=pla-381962717500

3. If you are that far in, smart to go ahead and replace the seals. It is cheap insurance to prevent leaks and protect your wheel bearings.
4. If your current bearings and races look okay, you can repack them on the axle shaft. Otherwise, you'll need a press...or a machine shop, NAPA etc. to do it.
5. You'll need a dial indicator to properly set the end-play. Also, there is a spacer (he mentions it in the video) where the axle shafts meet in the center of the diff. The two halves of the spacer are held together with a roll pin going through the center. Sometimes the roll pin breaks and the spacer pieces fall out...no bueno. Take a flashlight and look in the ends of the axle tubes when the axles are out and be sure nothing is laying down in there at the center of the diff. In the center, you should see what looks like a button with a hole in the middle.

 

Great Info Tim Thanks. Is it easier to remove the diff cover to check for the roll pins and see that it is all lined up or is that not at all necessary? I do have a dial indicator and I have used it once on my TC output end-play.