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Rubber body mount question

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by 72CJ5er, May 31, 2004.

  1. May 31, 2004
    72CJ5er

    72CJ5er Renegade Member

    Hampton, TN
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2004
    Messages:
    158
    OK, I have read many times over that with a fiberglass body don't use the original or urethane body mounts, go with the rubber only. OK I found this "tube" of rubber in 4WD Hardware that I can get and cut to the size I need. I need to know if there is any source out there that can have the correct size I need to cut.

    Now, 66tuxedopark told me that they werent all the same thickness but didn't know which ones were different.

    I have no clue cause the original ones on mine were of course crushed, and the body I bought off a frame already.

    I hope someone has the correct sizes I need to cut off in order to mount this tub.
     
  2. Jun 1, 2004
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2002
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    4,422
    I got the same thing for my 68. I just cut whatever looked good. But I also wanted to get a little more clearance for my tires. I think I ended up cutting them about 1 1/4". I "think" stock was only around 1/2"? Thats about what size the new urathane set was for my 62.

    All mine were the same thickness.
     
  3. Jun 3, 2004
    72CJ5er

    72CJ5er Renegade Member

    Hampton, TN
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2004
    Messages:
    158
    1 1/4 sounds about where I was going to go. Did everything fit good after you installed the tub? the guy I got the tub from used hockey pucks (yeah) for mounts, apparently they werent thick enough and the shocks broke through the tub. if they were all the same, thats great. I cant wait to mount this tub and get back on the trail.
     
  4. Jun 3, 2004
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
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    3,437
    I used the rubber tube stuff on my 'glass tub.
    That stuff is a b!tc# to cut straight! Best results with a bandsaw.
    Most of mine are different lengths, about 2" more or less. I put a couple of levels in the back of my tub, set the body on some props on the frame at the height I wanted, then cut each section allowing for some compression when I tightened the bolts.
     
  5. Jun 18, 2004
    72CJ5er

    72CJ5er Renegade Member

    Hampton, TN
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2004
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    158
    anyone know if you can use any type of rubber? or do you have to buy that stick from 4WD? I would like to personally get some bigger round ones so I can distrubute the weight out better. My mount spots on the tub are about 5" square. the tube from 4WD looks like about 2". mbe Im way off but here but bigger would be better cause it would have more surface area to cover

    if anyone knows of another source. post it

    Scott
     
  6. Jun 19, 2004
    Jeepenstein

    Jeepenstein Me like Jeep.. 2024 Sponsor

    North Central FL
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2003
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    2,156
    Hey scott, just use a big hole saw (got one if ya need it) to cut some 3" or so washers from some aluminum or steel plate to distribute the load.. put that between the body and the rubber mounts, maybe even face the washer with some thin sheet rubber to help it grip the body.. that is how I am doing mine anyhow..


    BUBBA
     
  7. Jun 19, 2004
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Aug 10, 2003
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    The early CJs used sections of worn-out automobile tire (tread and sidewall) between the body and frame. Simply a rectangle of tire with a hole in the middle. They even have a Jeep P/N. You can do this too if the aesthetics don't bother you.
     
  8. Jun 30, 2004
    72CJ5er

    72CJ5er Renegade Member

    Hampton, TN
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2004
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    158
    OK, I got the makeshift stand ins to get the right size I need, First off they are going to be about 2 to 2 1/2 inch! I know this sounds odd, it does to me as well. the thing is, I have only about 1/8 inch between the rear crossmember and the tub edge. im stuck atm, unless a 2 1/2" spacer would be normal. I know if I got a factory body bushing where it would be 3/4 to 1" the rear would be way too low.

    Also should the edge between the rear wheel and the front of the tub be level? aka the same distance from the ground. I measured and its slightly higher in the rear, even though I have 1/8 inch in the rear. I was hoping it was higher in the front so it would mean I could lower the front and by means of leverage of the middle pair of bushings, gain extra space in the back.

    take a look on my "progress" page on my site linked in my sig, if you look at the last lower right pic, you can see just how much space I have on that rear edge. keep in mind, this is with 2" of spacer for frame bushings
     
  9. Jul 1, 2004
    66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    NorthWest Indiana
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    Sep 10, 2003
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    2,084
    that's NOT made from worn out tires,rather that's how they were made then.
     
  10. Jul 1, 2004
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
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    3,437
    Scott, I ran into a similar problem when I installed my "used" glass tub of unknown origin...
    I used the 4WD hardware rubber salami. I explained above how I positioned the tub then cut the rubber. Most of mine turned out to be 2-2.5" as well, they were not all the same size. I laid a couple levels in the tub bed to keep the tub level when installing the rubber and tightening the bolts.

    Here's a pic of my rear cross:
    [​IMG]

    I used a piece of 4x4x1/4" square tube. I removed the old cross, positioned this one to be level with the top of the frame rail ends, then welded and bolted. I used a plate welded to this cross as my center-rear tub mounts, seen in the pic.
    When I removed the original rear cross, the frame must have sprung a bit and I wan't aware of it, so when I welded the new cross it resulted in a distinct lean. I should have measured before removing the old cross, then tweaking it back to that spec before welding the new one in place
    The end result was that my tub was pretty level front to back, it was on new springs. As the springs broke in/sagged, the rear went down. I compensated by using longer ConFerr shackles in the back and shorter in the front. Now my tub is pretty level again.

    HTH, good luck! Looks likeyou're making great progress!! :)
     
  11. Jul 1, 2004
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    The replacement body bushings, directly from Jeep, were absolutely made from old tires. The originals may have been something else - but I shelved dozens (maybe hundreds) of these bushings that clearly had sidewall printing, and tread, on them.
     
  12. Jul 1, 2004
    fred

    fred Member

    Dallas, Texas
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2004
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    76
    You might try leveling your frame, then level the body on the frame using the extreme front and extreme rear pucks, then measure the rest to fill. You might take note of all these different dimensions for future.
    Remember to level your hood/grille using the bottom edge of the hood, then attach fenders.
     
  13. Jul 11, 2004
    72CJ5er

    72CJ5er Renegade Member

    Hampton, TN
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2004
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    Yes thank you this will help alot.

    one question though, were you able to get away with buying just one of the salami rubber sections, or two? I have yet to find a description of how long it is. I havent ordered it yet for this reason cause I figure if I have to buy two, I'll just go buy some regular 2 1/2 mounts cause it would be cheaper than two of those sticks.

    I just got back from 66tuxedopark's shop where he squared up my channel I'm gonna use as my crossmember. one thing is for sure. the new rear crossmember and hitch assy is WAY better than the old cobbled up thing that was on there.

    yours looks great btw. have yu got any more pics?
     
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