Replacing Dana 44 pinion seal

I'm replacing the pinion seal on the 44 on my '54 M38A1. I think after researching, I have the answers to my questions but one:

The seal I pulled out looked like an original style. It had a gasket (WO 636565), a pre-formed felt packing (WO 802563) and the seal. The seal housing was the metal-faced type with a leather seal (it all is confirmed by the mil service parts manual). What I'm not sure about, but suspect, is that the gasket and packing are no longer needed with the modern seals (Timken 5778 is what I have to replace the original). Is that correct?

Also, I plan on using a speedi-sleeve on the yoke. Part # I have for that is 99155.

While I'm at it, I will get a speedi-sleeve for the rear output on the Dana 18. I believe that is a 99156. Anybody have confirmation on those speedi-sleeve numbers? Thanks

 

The modern neoprene seal does not need the packing. That is a vestige of the leather seal. Make sure you put some sealer on the yoke splines so lube doesn't migrate that way.

 

That's what I figured. Thanks Nick

 

Look around for a replacement yoke. I have seen NOS yokes for about the same price as a speedi-sleeve and that would save some labor.

Don

 

I can pick up a speedisleeve for $21. The price on an NOS yoke is in the $40s. From what I read there isn't much to it to install the sleeve and I want to give it a try anyhow. Also, by the time I take care of the yoke on the front diff and the input/output shafts on the transfer case, I think getting used to the idea of the sleeves might save me some money in the long run.

And from what I see now, it looks like the same speedi-sleeve part # works on both the Dana 25/44 and the TC input/output shafts (99155). That's according to Rockauto

Something else I noticed yesterday: the yokes that had leather seals seem to take a beating even with low miles. That so far is my experience with the A1. But just yesterday, I pulled the yoke on the Dana 44 (centered/flanged) that was on the 1970 DJ when I bought it. The yoke was fine, even though it had seen who knows how many miles (I estimate well over 100,000). But it had a modern rubber seal on it. Nick made mention of the damage that the old leather seals can do to a yoke.

 

I think that's the same Timken part number of the one I have downstairs I use the same one on both and have had no issues.

Piece of advise, clean the seal surface thoroughly, if grooved, fill the groove with body filler, JB Weld, etc. first so the sleeve doesn't collapse into the groove. Once filled and sanded flush, then use sealer or threadlocker to lubricate and lock the sleeve in place. I generally use red threadlocker. After installation, carefully sand the leftover sharp edge so it doesn't cut the seal when you install the yoke. A few more steps but can make a big difference.

 

Hadn't thought about using a threadlocker on the sleeve. Good tips, thanks!

 

That's a good price then. I thought I had seen quotes up in the $40 range for those, close to the price of a NOS yoke.
Go for it, prep it like Nick says.

Don

 

RockAuto does a pretty good job. Just have to be careful with the cheaper stuff from you-know-where. The sleeves I bought are National (USA made)