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Removing Exhaust Manifold Bolts?

Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by fyrmn, Nov 5, 2018.

  1. Nov 5, 2018
    fyrmn

    fyrmn Sponsor Sponsor

    Arizona
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    So I need to replace the cracked exhaust manifold. 3 of the bolts sheared off at the block, which I expected some would.
    My question is for those of you that have done this before. What is your favorite procedure for getting these out. In the past I have center punched broken stud and drilled and used an easy out. That was a decade ago. I will have the body and fenders removed for easy access. Any tips will be greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance. Paul
     
  2. Nov 5, 2018
    Tomellen

    Tomellen Member

    Ticonderoga, NY
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    many ways, depending on specific situation. do u have pictures
     
  3. Nov 5, 2018
    fyrmn

    fyrmn Sponsor Sponsor

    Arizona
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    Typical of all three. Nothing to grab onto
     

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  4. Nov 5, 2018
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    My preferred method - Remove head, take to local automotive machine shop.
     
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  5. Nov 5, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    I didnt want to post that, but yeah.
     
  6. Nov 5, 2018
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    If you do take the heads off, check the cam and lifters while you are there. #projectcreep
     
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  7. Nov 5, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    F head, right?
     
  8. Nov 5, 2018
    fyrmn

    fyrmn Sponsor Sponsor

    Arizona
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    Yes
     
  9. Nov 5, 2018
    jeep2003

    jeep2003 Active Member

    Vestal NY
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    I prefer to drill up to the threads and pick the rest out and run a tap through. Use reverse bits if you can. I dont like ez outs if it breaks off you are done.
     
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  10. Nov 5, 2018
    Tomellen

    Tomellen Member

    Ticonderoga, NY
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    First of all looks like there is a full diameter of bolt that was torqued and sheared off. Bolts that don't come out easily at first should not be forced. You should of just kept soaking, heating and trying to move it a LITTLE each way. Patience is required, but the time spent will be better than trying get them out after sheared off. In this case with 3 broke advice above is the best, take them somewhere. You can try to get them out yourself with a easyout, but before you can do that you must loosen the rust in the threads for it to come out. (what u should of been done at first)Heat and soak, heat and apply wax to sink into threads. It wont be easy and will take a while, maybe days. Internet has lots of methods. Good luck.
     
  11. Nov 5, 2018
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    Disregard my post. I always assume a v6. A running F head is one rare bird around here.
     
  12. Nov 5, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Can you buy a replacement running F134 for less money and hassle than it will be to get those 3 bolts out? Don't envy the job you have ahead of you...they say it builds character, but its probably not worth the frustration. If you can get it center punched really well (as in very centered), then maybe drill it out a little bit at a time and then pick out the rest and run a tap to clean them out. Good luck...
     
  13. Nov 5, 2018
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    If you are willing to take the head off, IME your local shop will make quick work of those broken bolts. Having to work on the head mounted on the block and in the chassis is quite a handicap, even with the fenders off. I imagine they'd bolt it to the mill table and drill it straight ... not sure how they get the last of the threads out, but I think they have lots of experience doing this and have a system.

    Similarly, muffler shops are expert at removing broken bolts in the pipe end of the manifold. I recall taking my J10 to the local custom exhaust shop, and they replaced the whole system. The manifold had a broken bolt, and the shop removed it with the torch. Heat up the broken bolt cherry red (I assume), and one pop on the O2 and it was out. No damage to the manifold. Practice made perfect.

    Regarding the running F-head, it seems like there are few of them out there any more that you could drop in without some work. Not like 4.3L Chevys...
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2018
  14. Nov 5, 2018
    fyrmn

    fyrmn Sponsor Sponsor

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    I did soak, heat and tap event for a week being very patient. The manifold was cracked and pieces missing off of it on both ends around the stud holes And some sort of washer thing installed. I am thinking the po attempted removal perhaps, or some sort of issue existed Two broke with so little pressure. Ill try the reverse drill bit set up as Jeep 2003 Suggested
    As I mentioned I have removed them along time ago but it was time consuming. Just was curious if there was any new suggestions. I am very appreciative of all the suggestions!!!!
     
  15. Nov 5, 2018
    Hellion

    Hellion Rust covered & junky

    Eastern TN
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    I'm just a spring chicken/young buck, but what is an easyout or ez out?
    Is that another name for a Screw Extractor?

    Any bolt I remove these days, that takes a ton of effort and/or comes out without breaking, gets anti-seize.
     
  16. Nov 5, 2018
    PeteL

    PeteL Member Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    Okay, but while the head is at the shop, the broken exhaust studs will still be in the block, sitting in the chassis. :D

    Why it's called an "F-head." :study:
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2018
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  17. Nov 5, 2018
    Tomellen

    Tomellen Member

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  18. Nov 5, 2018
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

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    Ah, of course. :oops:
     
  19. Nov 5, 2018
    Bowbender

    Bowbender I'm workin' on it! Sponsor

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    This. I don't know if I can say I'm getting good at it, but I've had the "opportunity" to work on my technique a handful of times while working on my project. Be patient, work your way up in drill sizes as big as you dare and start picking.
     
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  20. Nov 5, 2018
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor Sponsor

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    If/when they come out, replace with studs rather than bolts. Chisel or grinding a side of the nut makes it easier than a tough stuck bolt.
    As far as getting the broken pieces out, grind any stub protruding flat to more accurately centerpunch, then start drilling with an 1/8"-3/16" bit. Try to get it centered as close as possible and go all the way through to the hollow behind. Oil, heat, paraffin wax, and a left-handed drill may get you some luck.
    -Donny
     
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