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Rebuild For "miles"

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Jw60, Nov 24, 2009.

  1. Nov 7, 2020
    Jw60

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    Sedalia MO.
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    Today was sort of successful.

    I replaced the cap and rotor...
    [​IMG]20201104_122430 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    I found the brush was kicked to the side, two cylinders had clean terminals and four were burnt. Then I noticed the wall was cut by the rotor.

    Pulling the rotor I realized why it wasn't very happy.
    [​IMG]20201106_122403 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    I thought I got this one put together better than this when going from a 7pin module to 4pin but shame on me. I snipped the loose wire and insulated the exposed connections. Then I noticed the rim of the top had a chamfer worn on one side but not all the way around.

    [​IMG]20201106_122155 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    I thought that was odd and with the cap issues I would say it was too close to the firewall. I removed the Transmission crossmember spacers out from last year, post 108 and that put the fan closer to the radiator but the distributor is no longer on the firewall. I'll look into smaller distributor options but I'm still planning on TBI with a new smaller distributor in the package... I hate to throw that cash away.

    Naturally these changes, and low fuel in the leaf mower called for a fuel run.
    Enter the spouse tracker and broke down jeep location system...
    [​IMG]Screenshot_20201107-195916_Drive Safe & Save by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    State farm's "Drive safe and save" or the "we know what you did last summer" app.
    Now I'm likely not saving anything on this car but it will make it easier for mama to show up at the right place with the truck. That will make any event less painful as she will have to bring 3 boys on the jeep hunt when that happens.
     
    Fireball likes this.
  2. Nov 13, 2020
    Jw60

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    Sedalia MO.
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    I forgot I took this video when pulling out the crossmember spacers.



    Seems to be the way things go this year.
     
  3. Dec 19, 2020
    Jw60

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    Sedalia MO.
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    Slowly making the seats the same color.
    Not the same as the back seat but it's better than the old torn up green.


    [​IMG]20201219_151615 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2020
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  4. Jan 17, 2021
    Jw60

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    Sedalia MO.
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    Prep work for the TBI has started.
    I went with Affordable fuel injection and there legacy TBI which is simply a 90's GM pcm.
    I also ordered a Small cap TBI era distributor.
    It is setup for my flat tappet RV style cam.
    There should be a 600rpm idle
    Trigger for a 300rpm idle bump and a trigger for a 600rpm idle bump. Together they allow a 1500rpm idle which should air up tires or power tools when I install the York compressor. 900rpm will be used for plowing snow where I used to set the hand throttle to keep the hydraulic pump fast acting and not stall. 1200rpm just worked out that way... we will see how true that is or if it is an odd frequency.


    Drained the fuel tank into an old Jerry can dated 1962.
    Pulled the fuel tank sender. It reads:
    87ohm Empty
    29ohm at half tank
    13ohm Full
    Should read:
    73 Empty
    23 half
    10 Full
    I'll try to gently clean connections and put a new not sinky float on it and then fiddle with the arm later to get closer to half tank reading at a half tank of fuel.
    A sight tube with a float would be pretty darn reliable.

    I'll leave some final pictures of the engine before the carb free life begins. That swap is covered in detail in the affordable fuel injection 4.3 thread. I just wanted to cover some higher level stuff here.

    [​IMG]20210117_170845 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    [​IMG]20210117_170835 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    [​IMG]20210117_170757 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    [​IMG]20210117_170811 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    [​IMG]20210117_170818 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2021
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  5. Apr 13, 2021
    Jw60

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    Sedalia MO.
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    Tbi is done
    Runs great and is bringing other issues to the surface. Tired axles and steering.
     
  6. Apr 13, 2021
    Jw60

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    Shot this video today. Speedometer and odometer work fine now. But count the issues going on here.
    Soo frustrating.
     
  7. Apr 13, 2021
    Jrobz23

    Jrobz23 Member

    Northern, WI
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    “Always somethin..”

    good luck on the project
     
    Jw60 likes this.
  8. May 1, 2021
    Jw60

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    Sedalia MO.
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    Guages were a simple fix. One wire got pulled off it's connection.

    Now I'm going to try to tackle a few projects before August (hopefully before july)

    1. I stripped some threads in the fuel tank for the pickup unit. Now it leaks out the filler on right hand turns and out the pickup on left hand turns.

    2. Engine oil leak (likely rear main or pan)

    3. Dual reservoir master cylinder (leaning wilwood but need to find a mount)

    4. More electrical fun (camper has trailer brakes reverse lights and house battery)

    5. Hand throttle on shifter or dash.

    6. Upgrade steering. I need something simple and reliable. I'm thinking manual Saginaw will be ideal. Too much stuff in the way for a ford box.
    Here is the box I'm looking at: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lsc-11034/make/jeep/model/j20/year/1975#


    7. Rear axle (pinion noise) I don't know where this will go. To fix the pinion I might as well put a locker and full float on but all these projects at once will kill the budget.

    8. Rear fuel tank, the camper will make fuel stops more frequent and I am really worried about missing the gas station.

    Plan A is to borrow my dad's f350 and tow the Jeep in August.

    Plan Z is to drive it with just a bikini top and pull the popup. (I really hope it doesn't come to this)
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2021
  9. May 25, 2021
    Jw60

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    Sedalia MO.
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    Quick status update to keep myself headed north.

    Item 1: fuel leak
    So far I've broken 4 taps for 12 holes in this 7ga or 3/16 aka .188" plate of 301 stainless (it's the thickest material I could get cut)
    Each hole was pre punched by laser and drilled out with drill bits from the tap package but it's hard material and I don't seem to get em square.
    [​IMG]20210516_003954 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    Item 2: engine oil leak
    chased the leak to the back of the intake manifold so I will try to see if it it the mechanical guage capillary tube or the idiot light sender.

    Item 3: master cylinder
    parts need ordered to rebuild a '69 master cylinder that will be disassembled to remove the residual pressure valves to use with my disk brakes.

    Item 4: electrical upgrades for towing
    Low priority but I have the brake controller pigtail some wire and circuit breakers on hand.

    Item 5, 6 and 8: hand throttle, steering, rear fuel tank
    Low priority / No action taken and will address hopefully this winter.

    Item 7: rear axle
    This one is an issue but the stove is full.
    I rightfully need to order parts each payday then sit down and do it. Backup plan... I want to get some rear full float spindles ready. I have extra D30 hubs so worst case I can pull the shafts and tow it home on the temporary full floater.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2021
  10. Jun 12, 2021
    Jw60

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    Sedalia MO.
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    Digging into item 3 on my list. Dual reservoir master cylinder for my 4 wheel disks and floor pedals.

    I got a used master cylinder from a member.
    Ordered a rebuild kit from the local napa that has books and knows how to use em.
    Also had to buy a $20 hone I'll only use once.
    Pulled it apart and it was in pretty good shape. Some fluid was still in it that was black but everything was intact and still pliable except the boot and some putting on the residual pressure valves.

    [​IMG]20210612_154450 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    We needed to disassemble to verify and order the rebuild kit, today I completely disassembled the master cylinder to clean out the sediment and start preparing for the hone.

    Looks like I've got a 1" and 7/8"stepped bore
    [​IMG]20210612_165637 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    Now to pull the valves which was easy peasy. Vice it up and break out the 1" spanner.

    [​IMG]20210612_165306 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    Now to pull the rubber thing with a pick.

    [​IMG]20210612_165408 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    Then pull the springy thingy.

    [​IMG]20210612_165437 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    Wash rinse repeat for the other side.
    Easy peasy... hold on for now the wife didn't come out to help or inspect my work.
     
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  11. Jun 12, 2021
    Jw60

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    Sedalia MO.
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    If anyone is trying to figure out the residual pressure valve and how they work this is a decent example.
    As fluid flows out of the master cylinder the fluid goes around the spring and thru the holes on the outside of the plate. Then the fluid can easily push the rubber disk away from the plate and go into the brake line.

    As fluid returns to the master cylinder the rubber disk pushes against the plate until the spring collapses. I'm removing this to use 2lb in line valves for my calipers.
     
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  12. Jun 26, 2021
    Jw60

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    Sedalia MO.
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    Well my master cylinder swap ground to a halt when I realized the rebuild kit was for a dual 1" bore.
    I don't think we got the inner piston out at the local napa I thought i got that out latet with a little compressed air.
    I could rush to get that done but the existing single reservoir master cylinder was freshened with the disk swap and all the lines hoses and calipers are new at that time with not too much use. So since I haven't unhooked anything yet I'll run it as it is. My parking brake is good and I'll be towing it out to Colorado. No sense in rushing and making another error.

    The fuel tank is back in with a filler neck vent and my driver's seat is fixed (nother story there). I need to cap the top pickup tube, I'll run a non vented cap with a vent hose from the filler neck and a vent hose from the pickup assembly to a tee at the top of the wheelhouse then back down to a breather somewhere below the tank. This should allow it to vent unless the jeep is on its back (100% Loss of fuel possible), or completely on it's side (50% loss) if it is on it's roof the breather will be above the fluid level. This isn't perfect but a heck of a lot better than venting inside the hardtop.
     
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  13. Aug 31, 2021
    Jw60

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    Sedalia MO.
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    Today I got an hour or so on the local dirt and back roads. I got a new phone mount and did a video that didn't turn out well so here are some better clips. No 4x4 just enjoying the weather.

    I've got a trail ride coming up and a lot of home and work stuff to do, no time to work on the old jeep.

    Reflecting back to the list:
    Overall the fuel leak seems resolved. I have some changes yet to do.
    Oil leak is no better or worse.
    dual master cylinder swap, rear axle service, Saginaw steering are my priorities.

    Pics:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. Sep 2, 2021
    Chris Gullett

    Chris Gullett New Member

    Cincinnati, Ohio
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    So have you found a Master Cylinder rebuild kit? I'm trying to find one myself.
     
  15. Sep 2, 2021
    Jw60

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    I got one that doesn't work.
    You need to disassemble the master cylinder to measure both pistons. They pulled the first piston and measured 1" but the 2nd piston (stuck in the bore at the time) was 7/8" so my kit is a $37 waste that also cost overtime to get there for them to measure. (I'm a bit upset still)
     
  16. Sep 2, 2021
    Chris Gullett

    Chris Gullett New Member

    Cincinnati, Ohio
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    I have the same exact one you have. Same pistons and everything, I have mine apart as well. We called NAPA today, they said UP 1503 is the part number but it doesn't look 100% right either from photos.
     
  17. Sep 18, 2021
    Jw60

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    The kit that does not work for the stepped bore is 1630. If I were happy with the local store I might look into the UP 1503...

    I haven't messed with my jeep a whole lot in the past few months, mostly just ran it as it is. My Daily Driver has developed the most annoying surge while cruising between 1500 and 2200rpm in any gear. But I'm forced to depend on the car to pick up all the kids on the days my wife works late. So I've been driving the jeep as much as I can until I get the car sorted out.

    Now I've got some stitches in an area that makes it a very bad idea to drive the jeep. I thought it would be a good time to get it in the garage.
    So I fiddled with the master cylinder a little more today. Plan was to clean all the original and still pliable stepped bore parts then reassemble.
    In the last 3 months since I tore it apart everything rusted so it was a p.i.t.a. to get respectably clean for service hauling the kids from school. then I was looking at this article...
    1969 Jeep CJ-5 Master Cylinder Rebuild - 4Wheel & Off-Road Magazine

    and noticed I was missing the innermost spring and plunger... :dhorse:

    They ain't in my earlier pictures. I can't physically look for them so I'll see about other rebuild kits but the rust and pitting is to a point I might order a new master cylinder and call it a day.
     
  18. Sep 23, 2021
    Jw60

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    New rebuild kit is in for the master cylinder. If I get garage time this weekend I might be able to tackle the install. Came with the case so I simply pull the residual valves and add the remote fill tube.
    Also splurged on new motor mounts, transfercase mount a dual groove alternator pulley and a cookie.

    [​IMG]20210923_195047 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    I think I've hit the last of the major events for the year. I've flat towed the jeep a little less than a thousand miles this year. I'm hoping I can get a lot of weekend projects done this winter.

    [​IMG]20210912_122923 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
     
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  19. Sep 25, 2021
    Jw60

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    Nibbling a little more on my list.
    I gotta take some time off from driving the jeep. It's been rough driving the Ford Flex as it is.

    Today I got the new alternator pulley on. This will allow more shenanigans. :sneak:
    I also started on replacing the... not proper motor mounts from college with more proper t-case donuts :D.
    The mounts if I remember back from 2011are circle track parts that are basically broke plates with slotted ears. I used some generic rubber chunks to locate everything and ran a bolt solid with JB weld filling the slot. The 4.3 got a good balance done and it's a JEEP so I've kept an eye on it but it doesn't shake... much.

    [​IMG]20210925_182010 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    I believe I spotted the source of the oil leak.
    I'll move everything outside for a soapy bath so I can be sure but it's the oil galley plug above the filter on the filter boss. Hopefully it's not a crack.

    [​IMG]20210925_174844 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    The dual master cylinder is going to be a pain to install with my motor, steering, and exhaust but we will see.

    While I was out there I realized I haven't put up any current state pictures since the TBI swap nor do I have anything without fenders in the way.


    Pics on the way...
    Driver side noting how the 3.3l chevy car exhaust manifold works with the Ross box almost like a 134 exhaust.
    [​IMG]20210925_181704 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    Lower fisheye shot
    [​IMG]20210925_181741 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    Passenger side all wide lense shots with the garage being a little tight.
    [​IMG]20210925_181803 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

    And a lower view
    [​IMG]20210925_181813 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2021
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  20. Dec 9, 2021
    Jw60

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    Lost my thread on this project... not able to get out there but here is a mercruiser filter on remote bracket. I would recommend just getting a hot rod fuel filter assembly instead of these exact components.

    Plan is to run an extended outlet tube to near the bottom of the filter housing. The inlet side will get three fittings, in from tank, in from tbi return, and a vent to the tank. Any water can be drained from the bottom fitting as needed.

    The engine runs off of the fuel in the filter, the filter has a lot of media surface area to minimize restrictions to flow. As the filter goes sideways the fuel level will have to go at a greater angle to escape the fuel pickup at the bottom of the cylindrical filter housing than the angle an underseat tank has to go for fuel to uncover the pickup tube (when it spills out of the filler neck). I'm hoping for at least 45deg side to side. The way the filter mount is, I'll loose some for and aft angle due to the vent location relative to the fuel pickup. Of course when a jeep is at this angle the fuel pickup from the main tank will likely be above the fuel level. At this point it's a race against the clock with better performance than a float bowl.

    If I were to improve on this system it would be to use a large fuel mat in a new custom tank. (Gotta balance cost and performance)

    [​IMG]20211209_141344 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2021
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