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rear floor board

Discussion in 'Early Jeep Restoration and Research' started by oregoncj5, Oct 7, 2004.

  1. Oct 7, 2004
    oregoncj5

    oregoncj5 Sam I Am

    Harrisburg, Oregon
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    Sep 26, 2004
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    I'm in the process of restoring a 59 and the one area i'm having problems with is the rear floor board. It is very bowed between the cross members and I'm not sure of the correct way to fix this. The metal is still in very good shape. When I try and bend it it goes back to its original shape. Should I heat it first or what? Thanks for the input.
     
  2. Oct 7, 2004
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    Sheet metal distorts very easily from heating, so you'd have to be very careful. You might be successful by rapidly moving heat back and forth, getting it just hot enough to make it give. Do you have the body off?
     
  3. Oct 7, 2004
    oregoncj5

    oregoncj5 Sam I Am

    Harrisburg, Oregon
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    Sep 26, 2004
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    Thanks Glen, yeah the body is off of it. I'll try and attach a pic of it in a while.
     
  4. Oct 8, 2004
    66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    NorthWest Indiana
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    to get metal to hold a bend, one must bend it farther then needed.
     
  5. Oct 8, 2004
    duke54

    duke54 Member

    JACKMAN MAINE
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    Is it possable to shink it buy heating then cold water on it i heard of that some where
     
  6. Oct 8, 2004
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    If it's bowed because of loading heavy objects in the back, I'd leave it.
     
  7. Oct 8, 2004
    Russell

    Russell New Member

    Greensboro, NC
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    When you say "crossmembers", do you men the reinforcing crossmembers that are spot-welded to the underside of the floor? Which way is it bowed, up or down? Was it like that while still on the jeep? Is there any distortion (bend) in the crossmembers?

    If it was bowed before it come off the frame it would seem to me that the body (or frame or both) had taken some great stress to cause a bow there. That is a pretty stiff part of the body with the crossmembers there.

    A picture is worth at least as many words as I have typed so far. Can you give us one?
     
  8. Oct 8, 2004
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    I assumed he meant bowed as in sagging between the supports you mentioned. Years of use can cause it of course, the metal is basically stretched which makes it hard to straighten back out. Mine is that way just a little.
     
  9. Oct 8, 2004
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    JC Whitney indoor/outdoor carpet kit will fix it :)
     
  10. Oct 8, 2004
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    I've got the same thing happening with Tonka but its easier to work with as I have the tub diss-assembled. The problem is the "ribing" in the floor allows it to stretch out from side to side. The ribbing has to be bought back into the right "cross section" to get to bow out. I've had a bit of luck bringing them back in shape with a little judicius use of a hammer & dolly but it would be better if the dolly was ground into the right shape.

    Out of curiousity, how many hat channels are running under your back floor? Tonka's floor ('55) has one, the floor from the doner tub ('67??) has two. I'm curious about when they added the 2nd one.

    H.
     
  11. Oct 9, 2004
    oregoncj5

    oregoncj5 Sam I Am

    Harrisburg, Oregon
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    here's a pic, not the best but it will have to do.
     
  12. Oct 11, 2004
    Russell

    Russell New Member

    Greensboro, NC
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    Looks like there has been some serious weight in there.

    I don't think there is much to be done except replacing the floor or putting something over it. The metal seems to be fatigued to me - it is as much stretched as it is bent. I believe if you tried to knock it out from the bottom it would just pop-up and go back down when you put weight on it again.

    You might be able to put another brace under the sagged section to hold it up. My floor was so rusted out that I replaced and started over.
     
  13. Oct 11, 2004
    JZ

    JZ Member

    Huntsville...
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    The PO of my '59 must have seen the same thing. When I got it, there was a solid 1/8 sheet welded over the original floor board. I decided that it was best to keep the heavy-duty fix and drop the old floor. The shape is decidedly like yours. From this pic - you can see the bow in the rear. You can also make out the impression of the diagonal supports. I have tried to salvage the two hat sections (well one at least...).
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Oct 13, 2004
    seneca4x4

    seneca4x4 New Member

    Seneca, SC
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    Jan 2, 2003
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    A word to the wise...if you decide to heat treat the metal, DON"T use water as your rapid cool agent. Water will cause the steel molecules to polarize and result in the steel losing (in varying degrees) its elasticity. Larger brittle areas can create opportunities for cracking, over time. Thin oils function much better as rapid cool agents.
     
  15. Oct 14, 2004
    speedbuggy

    speedbuggy Looking for a Jeep now Sponsor

    Living the Good...
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    What harry said.
     

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