Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by scott milliner, Feb 5, 2017.
I have Jeep rotors and chevy S10 calipers on my Warn FF kit; but no provision for an E-brake.
Hub where done today free of charge for the machining. Brakes installed. Still need the Locking Hubs.
I shimmed the calipers to center them on the rotor. Then I made new brake lines and bled the brakes. I'm still waiting on the new locking hubs. They should be here today.
New Warn hubs Arrived.
I was bleeding the brakes today. I'm still fighting air in the lines. I gave up tonight. Going to retry again tomorrow.
Those Warn hubs are beautiful.
I despise bleeding brakes.
I had air in my front brakes for what seemed like forever. A member gave me a person to call. He told me to take off the calipers, place a piece of wood between the brake pads (width of rotor). Hold the calipers as high as possible and bleed normally. I finally was able to get the air out with this method.
Still fighting air in the system. Bleed, Bleed, Bleed. Oh. Done leave the cove off the master cylinder. Brake fluid will be on the garage ceiling.
How about one of those nifty one man vacuum pump brake bleeder things? Rubber hose hooks to the bleeder and you squeeze it/pump it and it pulls fluid through from the master cylinder.
I have a vacuum bleeder that uses air pressure to create the vacuum. It works but still doesn't get a problem line bleed well. I replaced all of the lines on my 1997 K1500 with stainless steel. Had a hard time getting it bled through the ABS.
One thing to remember is that if you try to bleed too rapidly, you will aerate the brake fluid. It takes some time for the tiny air bubbles to work their way to one air mass that you can bleed out.
I've bled the brakes for three days now. There is no air in the lines. I tried reverse bleeding, not luck. My pedal still goes almost to the floor before having a rock hard pedal. Going to try a Disc to Disc Master cylinder. I found out the Disc/ Drum master cylinder has a 1' to a larger rear bore. The disc to disc has a 1" bore both sides. If anyone has any thoughts on this please let me know.
I doubt you have air in your system. I had a very similar problem when I first did my own rear disk conversion. What It came down to was the caliper was not exactly centered on the rotor. I tried shimming and all manner of fixes. Nothing worked until I installed my own FF setup and used the exact same chevy parts I used to convert the drum D30 up front. I also went power brakes and my issues went away. What happened was the caliper was pushing the pad into the disk, but the other pad wasn't really close enough to give good braking action. I fought that for a year.
Are you using residual pressure valves front/rear?
No. I installed a combination valve for 4 wheel disc. This doesn't have any residual pressure valuing in it. I also found out that the master cylinder for the disc/drum set up has a step bore. 1" for the disc/front. 1 1/8" for the rear drums. This means the rear gets more volume. (locking up first.) I need a master cylinder for disc/disc. The disc/disc master cylinder is a 1" bore front and rear.
While taking off the calipers on the front. (To straiten out the braded brake lines. Maybe get the air out of the lines.) I noticed I have a front brake caliper that is stuck. I can not compress the piston. I'll need to replace it.
I installed the new Master Cylinder and still had problems. I was fighting a low pedal until I found this video. I had air in the Master Cylinder.
Now the brakes work great. The proportioning of the brakes front to rear is perfect.
New Disc to Disc. Combo Valve.
Great news and video.
Good to know.
That's very interesting and great info. Thanks Scott. Glad you got your brakes tuned up and working.
I bought brake cables from Lokar. I wanted to have the cables come up though the floor below the parking brake. This wasn't possible because of the overdrive on the transfer case. I ended up running the cables through the back floor to the brake handle.
To attach to my brake handle. I had to use a pulley.
Now I only need the adapter for my brake adjuster. Should be here tonight.
Parking Brake is all done. Works great.
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