1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Question about rear cross member

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by BrenGun, Nov 10, 2009.

  1. Nov 10, 2009
    BrenGun

    BrenGun Just Some Guy

    Maine
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2008
    Messages:
    186
    I broke off the last bolts going through the rear cross member/ bumper that were holding on a piece of C- channel steel that is sitting inside the cross member. Anyone know if this is meant to be removeable? It looks like it was only held in with various bolts including those that held on the tow bar frame. It just looks like bracing for the x-member, but I don't know if its welded in somewhere or just rusted in. I tapped it pretty good with a hammer, but it hasn't come loose yet. I don't want to break a weld, but I'd like to get it out so I can prep it along with the rear of the cross member.
     
    BrenGun, Nov 10, 2009
    #1
  2. Nov 10, 2009
    bkd

    bkd Moderator Supreme Staff Member 2022 Sponsor

    K-Town Tenn.
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2007
    Messages:
    3,294
    if I remember correctly mine was welded......
    Jim S.
     
    bkd, Nov 10, 2009
    #2
  3. Nov 10, 2009
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2003
    Messages:
    8,122
    Mine just fell out one day while I was working on the frame:rofl:

    New ones available from Classic Enterprises, they don't list them as separate items apart from the rear x-member but if you ask they will sell them separately.

    H.
     
    Howard Eisenhauer, Nov 10, 2009
    #3
  4. Nov 11, 2009
    BrenGun

    BrenGun Just Some Guy

    Maine
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2008
    Messages:
    186
    I was passed this link. http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/RearBumper.html Still doesn't seem as if they were sure if it came out on its own or not. It doesn't sound like it should come out, though it seems like it should. The two bolts that I broke off seemed to only be there to bolt it into place. They didn't have any other purpose that I can think of. The rest of seemed to be held in place by the nuts & bolts holding on the drawbar. I'm going to look again at it tomorrow, but I may just clean out the mud as well as possible and primer over the whole thing and hope that it doesn't rust out.
     
    BrenGun, Nov 11, 2009
    #4
  5. Nov 11, 2009
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2003
    Messages:
    8,122
    I don't believe they were welded in, at least not by the factory. Tonk's certainly wasn't.

    I highly recommend that you do everything in your power to get it out, the space between it & the xmember is a natural rust generator, it was pretty ugly in there on Tonk. I'd recommend taking a drift punch & working at the insert bolt hole edges to break it loose, once it's moved 1/8" or so you can grab the forward edge with a pair of vice grips & pull it out.

    Interestingly e'nuff when I bought the replacement insert from Classic the guy there asked me why most people were buying just the insert instead of both the xmember & insert. Didn't have an answer for him but it does seem to indicate that.. well, I don't know what it indicates but it's interesting none-the-less.


    H.
     
    Howard Eisenhauer, Nov 11, 2009
    #5
  6. Nov 11, 2009
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    The later parts catalog shows the insert as a separate part, Jeep PN 5351283. My Jeep doesn't have a drawbar, and doesn't have the reinforcing channel. The crossmember is fine, but if I wanted a pintle plate and/or drwbar, I'd want the reinforcing channel. Maybe that's the motivation.
     
    timgr, Nov 11, 2009
    #6
  7. Nov 11, 2009
    BrenGun

    BrenGun Just Some Guy

    Maine
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2008
    Messages:
    186
    Got it out today. I'll post pics and a video over at the restoration forum. Think that I need to replace it though. I knocked out about a pound of rust and it has two rust throughs.
     
    BrenGun, Nov 11, 2009
    #7
  8. Nov 11, 2009
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2009
    Messages:
    4,507
    The reinforcement, as you found out, is only held in by the rivits. If it is welded, someone did it after it left the factory. It may have added a bit of strength to the hitch mount, but water does collect between it and the rear cross member. If you see bubbles on the rear cross member, you can usually poke a hole through them with a screw driver.
     
    duffer, Nov 11, 2009
    #8
  9. Nov 11, 2009
    BrenGun

    BrenGun Just Some Guy

    Maine
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2008
    Messages:
    186
    Yep, it did eat away at the cross member a bit, but I think that its salvagable. The brace however is toast. It has two rust throughs on either side, interestingly enough not on the bottom of the brace, but on the side facing the rear. :? And mine wasn't riveted, just bolted.
     
    BrenGun, Nov 11, 2009
    #9
  10. Nov 12, 2009
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2003
    Messages:
    8,122
    Yup, mine rusted out pretty much the same way but with a small hole on the top. I tried welding mine up but gave it up as a bad job so I got a new one, slipped right in perfectly. I hit everything with two coats of POr15 & a good top coat tho- Don't want any more rust in there.


    H.
     
    Howard Eisenhauer, Nov 12, 2009
    #10
New Posts