Posi's Do-over

Yes, I started with the Currie mount that goes on the bottom of the steering box and fabbed from there. The first one I made was welded to a bracket that bolted to the frame and the flexing on the frame broke it near the weld. The one I'm using now is bolted to the bracket so it can move and has worked fine. I think you can buy the clamp for the steering box by itself from Foothill Offroad pretty cheap. https://catalog.foothilloffroad.com/ I saw them in their store at one time. They are online only now, but I'd be surprised if they don't still carry them. You might have to call them to find out. By the way, thank you for your service. My father was a "90 day wonder" in Korea serving under Gen. "Chesty" Puller.

 

I know you can make one useing a connecting rod from a GM sb 350. I can get the exact info from my buddy who built two of them for his 7's.

Oh and Posi......92.5" on the WB without having to modify the frame..woo hoo!

 

That rocks! In hindsight I would have started with a longer frame (CJ6?) and gone from there. Your '72 frame is probably a little longer than an Early frame too.

 

I know starting in 72 they have just about 3" longer wheelbase and stretched the hood out for the v8's and I-6's. my shackle hangers are litterally right at the end of the rails...no more room to play unless coils or air shocks are used.

 

You might want to learn how to re-build the Birfield joints in the front axles since you are using Toy axles and they are the weakest link. Been on a couple of trips through the Rubicon where a Birfield joint bit the dust. It's not a big deal if you have the right parts.

 

I will be getting a couple spares for sure. The dude i bought the axles from is out of Oakdale named Gary and is a die hard, everything else sucks type of guy...but a cool dude. I brought my 3rd member I already had bought with the gears and locker already in it so when i picked up the axles, he tore the front axle apart for me to show me how everything went together...prob change a birf in a half hour or so not too hard. BUT i will be upgrading to the dirty 30's once I get some cash....later down the road. Warrantied for life with no questions asked. They say IF your able to break them then send in the broken stuff and they ship you brand new stuff. besides...I would put a stock toy axle up againest a dana 3..............uhhh......nevermind. haha

 

I'm not knocking Toy axles. The Birfield thing is the only complaint I have heard about them. I grenaded a u-joint in my D30 with 35's. Put in Alloy USA shafts with D44 sized u-joints and have never had a problem since. I run with a couple of guys who have the dirty 30's and they have never had an issue with them.

 

Ah i know you wasn't, i was just kidding around. Im hoping that the stock birfs last for a little bit for me till I can get the dirty 30's or a set of longfields. I heard that with 35's, they can take a good whoopin and hold up but its the heavy throttle while turned that busts them. With your D30 shafts, did the new alloy shafts come with the d44 ujoint? besides busting there, i aint heard nothing bad about the 30.

 

Yup, they have the 44 size u-joints already. They are a snug fit through the hole in the knuckle. A friend of mine busted a birf right in front of me on the Rubicon. But his front tire was up against an undercut boulder. He didn't realize there was no way he was getting that tire up on that rock, gave it some juice and wham. Another buddy of mine with a Landcruiser (Chevota) had a spare and we were back on our way in about an hour.

 

Ya they aint the strongest in the stock form. Longfield compared their set to a d60 and Ive heard the same thing about the dirty 30's...which I like to hear.

 

I think my thread disappeared in the database backup, but anyway just wanted to say I love how you did that front shackle setup. Considering stretching mine out about 3" in the front using a similar approach.

 

Ya, the thread I started on the ARB install got lost too. I had to add about 8" to the front frame horns so I could move the steering box forward along with the axle. When I was thinking this through I neglected to account for the extra length of the Wrangler springs, so stretching the frame at the front was the only way. I really like the extra wheelbase on the trail.

 

jayhawk, you could also look into a different set of springs with an offset center pin and relocating your spring mounts on the frame. You can gain some ground that way also if you dont wanna extend the frame.

 

Those Toy springs seem to work well for that.

 

Ya i got a little lucky on them. they are a 21-27 split (i think, i will have to look it up again) which is perfect for what i needed since the short side of the leaf (21" from center pin to eye) was the exact same as the cj's. I guess it would depend on how much you want to gain on wheelbase when decideing between leaf and mount location or adding to the frame.

 

Here's the link to the ARB install that got lost in the transition to .net

http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?96804-ARB-Locker-Install

 

See, we had the same idea. Has the shackles changed since this? And if so, what did you do and how did it compare while wheelin?

 

My springs really flattened out a lot once I got a chance to drive it. I've made two more sets of shackles since then. I'll post up some pics. I made the new shackles a bit longer so I'm about 40 deg of angle now.

 

Here's how I made them. The pic i have doesn't show the angle very well. I'll try to shoot another one from the side tomorrow. Gotta play golf first though.

See Post #474 for the missing pics.



Since my springs are dead flat the shackles don't move toward the rear at all. They move forward on compression and extension.

 

Ah I see what you did there. Mine is purdy much the same in the fact that upon compression, the shackle only moves out a smidge before negative arch comes into play (im assuming since I have not been able to stetch it that far yet.) I'll prob leave it like it is for now and see what happens on a shake down run before the 'con. Also, i dont have the center support on my shackles. the yota dude who i bought my yota stuff from said that they dont run the center support that way the shackle can twist???