Pedal / MC interference

Trying to sort out original - PO - shop changes on my 70 V-6 brakes.

PO had a shop put in a new MC. He balked at any more work when he saw the price for that.

I started with the pedal wobble problem first. New lower pedal isn't the same as what was in the rig. Had a new MC pin made for the new pedal to match the one that had been there. Old pedal is too worn to bush; apparently can't buy new same.........?

Edit: looking at pix comparing existing to OMIX, I see where there is possibly enough diff to cause this problem....

Putting it all back together now, and I see where I won't have any clearance for the pedal travel when I have to bleed the system. I MAY have enough for normal operation, but not much.

Looking at this pic, can anyone say whether this MC is the problem (not correct) or is it the pedal? As I mentioned above, I see now where there may a problem with the OMIX pedal, but, still, can anyone say if this looks like a correct MC?

Sorta had brakes when I bought it, but obviously they needed work. Not sure where to start over now.

 

If I can't repair the "original" one ( and it doesn't sound like I can), I'm not above having a pedal fabbed from scratch. What's bugging me, is that I don't think I'm the first one to deal with this. Is there some other solution?

 

Two fellas I talked to (a millwright I trust and the machinist who built the pin) each said they thought it just didn't have enough meat left to support a bushing. I have no idea whether the thing is even original to this rig. I'm also a little skeptical about bending cast metal. Just don't know where to start to figure this out. I bet you folks do, though!

 

OOPS! The pic I showed of the two arms is of two brake arms.I just had them both on the shaft for reference. Red one is new OMIX, the other is, well, whatever was in the 70 when I bought it. Will check on bending if it were forged!!

 

Other problem I see Glenn, is that it's already a wee bit short; any more bends. and I'll have other clearance issues. (DANG, it's hard to type straight when the boss cat is in my chair..........)

 

Reckon I'll go ask the machinist Monday what he thinks about fabbing an arm from scratch. Yeow!! Cheaper than not having brakes, but, yowser!!!

 

Shouldn't be a problem to re-bush the original. Had a bushing in it to begin with, didn't it? Why would they say there's not enough meat left to re-bush it? If it won't work, why bother trying to bend the OMIX arm, a new arm is what, 20-25 bucks? I'd just call Walck's and get another one. He's more likely to sell you the right part. Another new one is probably cheaper than getting the original re-bushed anyway. Damn sure cheaper than having one built from scratch.

 

The arm you have is the 4 cylinder arm. There is a difference from the 4 cylinder to 6 cylinder arm. I rebushed Lynn's brake pedal arm about a year ago and made a new stud for the MC arm to ride on. Unless it is really really wore out, there should be enough to do it. The bushing was only about .040" thick.
The MC looks like the correct dual reservoir unit for the 69-71 jeeps, right down to the single bolt on the top.

 

Bought this arm from Krage's; they knew it was supposed to be for a V-6. Afterward, somebody here pointed out that the V-6 arm wasn't so easy to come by, so who knows?

That's what I was going by. Don't know if it was bushed to start with; see no evidence of that. Yes, it is pretty thin. Maybe I shoulda just begged Mike to go for it to start with. Thought I'd try this local fella and save a lot of back-and-forth, ya know?

Certainly not looking for any argument here!! I just need some opinion on how to resolve this. One thing I don't quite get is, if it is a bit short to start with, bending it would make it even shorter, wouldn't it?

One way or another, I'm sure you folks will get us squared away soon enough! I do appreciate the advice and suggestions!

 

Ah it is the old pedal interference problem.

Could be a lot of things, but I'll give you some info because you may need it.

The pedal shaft - that is the part that goes under the floor and to the pivot under the frame, is different for the V6 because of interference with the M/C.

So, there are a lot of permutations here. But if the engine was 4 cyl and swapped with 6 cyl that could cause the problem.

If the pedal shaft was swapped with another, or a new one that could be the problem.

Note -- no one makes the pedal shaft for the v-6 anymore. You can buy them new, but the new repro shafts are for the 4 cylinder application, and not the V-6.

You can use Kamel's quick and dirty field tested method for determining if you have the 4 or 6 cylinder shaft. Here it is---

Take the pedal shaft off, remove the pedal that sticks up through the floor, so you only have the one piece of metal.

Lay it on its side with the push rod stub shaft pointing up.

Now note how far off the flat surface the outer end of the pedal shaft is. If it is about 1 to 1.5 inches off the surface you have a v-6 shaft, if it is less than an inch off the surface then it is a 4 cylinder.

If you push down on the end and it rocks a little then it is 4 cylinder, if you push down on the end and it rocks a lot it is a 6 cylinder.

Your picture is pretty good as an example to show the difference. If a vendor tells you that he has the shaft for a v-6 then I would question whether he has a mendacity problem or simply doesn't know what he is talking about.

BTW, there weren't bushings in those shafts.



kamel

 

You 'might could' (an old Kentucky expression) take out some of the slop by putting in a pedal wobble kit.

Jeep sold 'em, but you probably could make your own.

You'd need a threaded rod that you could drill a hole through.

Stick that into the side of the pivot shaft on the bottom of the frame, and instead of putting a cotter pin through the pivot shaft/threaded rod, make it something more substantial like a grade 8 bolt or something. Now, by using washers to butt against the pedal shaft on the outside, tighten a nut on the threaded rod. You'd probably want to use an aircraft style nut and maybe even drill it for some safety wire.

I have never done that, but I think it would work.

 

There's a whole 'nother can of beans in this mess, too. The pivot shaft is one the PO who owned it the longest made up when he built his version of chain link clutch control. Unless I can go back at least part-way to stock control, I'm stuck with this arrangement. I'm pretty sure if I can just get past this clearance issue, I'll be good to go. At least good to go on to actually working on the brakes; either the 10 inchers on there, or "new" 11's. But, 11's won't work with my wheels, ........ Hoo-boy!

Thanks again for all the help and advice fellas! I have a line on a used pedal arm that may be right for me. We'll see!

 

depending on your skills fabbing, switch the lower part of the pedals between the 2.