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P/s Box Replacement Help

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Desert Runner, Aug 6, 2020.

  1. Sep 22, 2020
    Desert Runner

    Desert Runner Member 2020 Sponsor

    Hickory, Pa
    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2005
    Messages:
    545
    Unfortunately I put a new radiator in this year, one of the aluminum ones. It is bigger that the original. It sat right on top of the P/s lines, and still the predrilled holes would not line up, had to redrill about an inch lower to raise it off the pipes, it interfered with the hood prop, but I bent that and made it work, so I can't go any higher.

    As soon as the parts get here we will see what will work......

    I've found another p/s box off a Roadmaster that is an oring style, but I need to see if will accept my hoses or is it metric.
     
    Ol Fogie likes this.
  2. Sep 22, 2020
    wheelsontheroof

    wheelsontheroof New Member 2020 Sponsor

    dupont pa
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2020
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    36
    I had a Saginaw power steering box completely disassembled once . I had to use a sticky grease to get the recirculating ball bearings back inside the sheet metal cage inside. It was very frustrating at the time. Otherwise not too bad . I remember an adjustment on the input side for how quick the boost comes in . Don't get too aggressive with that if you choose to rebuild. I was 17 or 18 when I did mine .
     
    Desert Runner likes this.
  3. Sep 22, 2020
    Ol Fogie

    Ol Fogie 74 cj5 304, 1943 mb 2020 Sponsor

    Jasper Georgia
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2019
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    323
    You may need to go back to the original style radiator. The factory radiator has a notch on the bottom left to give room for the hoses. I am thinking you may never get the needed clearance any other way.
    I thought of making a steel plate out of 1/4 or 3/8 and placing it in between the gear and the gear mount and offset the bolt holes so to lower the gear about 3/4 to 1 inch. But it would place added leverage on the frame rail causing additional problems without beefing up the frame in the area. more work.
     
  4. Oct 1, 2020
    Desert Runner

    Desert Runner Member 2020 Sponsor

    Hickory, Pa
    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2005
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    545
    Weeellllllll if I could have afforded the original style, when I bought the cheap aluminum one, I would have, but I didn't so here we are. BUT if need be I am considering cutting a notch in the aluminum one. but only if I have to.

    With all that I have been doing, I decided to look at my P/S box again, I got the hoses for my Waqgoneer box, It looks like I can make them work, but I won't know until I do this....... I measured the input shaft on the AGR box, it's 3/4", So I ordered Saginaw rebuild kit 8524, from rockauto, When It gets here I'll drop the box and see if I can replace the front bearing. seal. and dust cover on the front piece. If that works I'll put the AGR back in, if not I will start trying to get the Wagoneer box in.

    Now back to the Roadmaster opti-sparl fiasco.
     
  5. Oct 1, 2020
    CJ Joe

    CJ Joe Truckhaven Tough!

    Pinon Hills, CA
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    Nov 9, 2002
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    357
    Desert Runner and ITLKSEZ like this.
  6. Oct 1, 2020
    Desert Runner

    Desert Runner Member 2020 Sponsor

    Hickory, Pa
    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2005
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    That's cool and all but doesn't apply to my box. Although it is based on the saginaw design my AGR box has no casting markings that might identify it as a saginaw. I was reading an article by Hemmings on GM Steering boxes, and he said "all GM boxes, both 3"and 3.5"" and he lists many part no.s "all have 13/16th input shafts." Well my box is 3.5" and it has a 3/4" shaft. So that was no help.

    But I thank you, the link may help others identify boxes they find.
     
  7. Oct 1, 2020
    Lockman

    Lockman My " Rosie" 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    White City, NY 14617
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    Dec 4, 2018
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    Not being a smarty - pants here but, 1/16 " of circumference is mighty close ? :shrug:
     
    Desert Runner likes this.
  8. Oct 1, 2020
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    Aug 13, 2015
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    4,704
    Circumference, yes, 1/16” isn’t much. But this is diameter, where 1/16” is quite a bit.
     
    Desert Runner likes this.
  9. Oct 18, 2020 at 4:47 PM
    Desert Runner

    Desert Runner Member 2020 Sponsor

    Hickory, Pa
    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2005
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    So with out all the drama, and getting to where I am now....

    I pulled the steering box, marked the case, ring, bearing assy in a line for reassembly. replaced the front seal and dust seal, and oring. put it all back together, and the PS does not work. I jacked up the front end and worked the steering wheel lock to lock 5 or 6 times trying to work the air out of the system, but the fluid level in the pump has not gone down and no power steering at all.

    What do I do next?:crazy:

    When I removed the front bearing assy I tried to make sure the main shaft did not come forward, but it may have a little bit. would that cause this?
     
  10. Oct 18, 2020 at 6:33 PM
    Desert Runner

    Desert Runner Member 2020 Sponsor

    Hickory, Pa
    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2005
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    Did some research and found a video on bleeding the P/S system. So I went, and with the engine off, turned the wheel 10 times lock to lock. Started it up and the pump started making noise. So I've spent the last hour slowly purging the system, still lots of foam, but No leaks yet, so I might be out of the woods.
     
  11. Oct 18, 2020 at 7:29 PM
    Oldriginal86

    Oldriginal86 Member

    Pasadena, Md.
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2014
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    536
    Best course of action when the fluid becomes aerated is no action. Shut off the engine, go in the house and wait until tomorrow.
     
    Fireball likes this.

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