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now i can't keep up with traffic

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by johnny quest, Jun 10, 2009.

  1. Jun 10, 2009
    johnny quest

    johnny quest Member

    Park City, UT
    Joined:
    May 23, 2006
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    so i got the overheating problems outta the way, or so i thought. took it out to get a sticker today, and it started off fine, but then started warming up about 3 miles into the trip. i finally pulled over when it was between 210* and 220* when i full throttle in 2nd and only going about 15-20mph. so i turned around, pulled into a church parking lot, and let it cool down. had to do this 2 more times to get it home. i installed a 180* thermostat, would i be better off with a 160*?? or is running 210*-220* ok and something else is goin on??
     
  2. Jun 10, 2009
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    What condition is the radiator in? Any kind of blockage/obstruction/damage/deposits is bad ju-ju.
     
  3. Jun 10, 2009
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    i see two things here........

    #1 running hot


    #2 full throttle in 2nd and only going 15-20 mph



    conclusion= timing issue, no power and running hot can be caused by the timing, also how clean is your cooling system, running hot will cause loss of power also, but i wouldnt think so @ 210* - 220*
     
  4. Jun 10, 2009
    Colorado_Baja

    Colorado_Baja JEEPS!!

    Fort...
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    Does it consume coolant?

    Did the power return in 2nd (or any gear for that matter) on your way home?

    I don't think a lower temp T-stat is the answer, I think you have something else going on.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2009
  5. Jun 10, 2009
    johnny quest

    johnny quest Member

    Park City, UT
    Joined:
    May 23, 2006
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    i flushed the whole system with a garden hose a few days ago when i redid the t-stat, so i know it's clean of loose floating stuff. that being said, the rad may have some more stubborn blockages, cause it looks to be the original one. so i should prob drain it and run a bottle of radiator cleaner through it. idk why i didnt do that the first time it was apart....:oops:

    i don't think i've run it long enough to really burn off any coolant, but when i just checked, the radiator is just as full as when i filled it up previous to today's escapades.

    which leaves.....the timing. how do i check this?? how do i change it?? what should it be at?? i have no idea what to look for.
     
  6. Jun 10, 2009
    Bill F

    Bill F Finally running

    Hillsboro NH
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    first thing to do is pull the radiator and send it to a shop to get boiled out and check. next re-route you fuel line to the carb, I bet you where starting to vapor lock.
     
  7. Jun 10, 2009
    johnny quest

    johnny quest Member

    Park City, UT
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    May 23, 2006
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    but its not running any rougher. it still sounds fine and isnt 'bucking' like i understand vapor lock usually does
     
  8. Jun 10, 2009
    Bill F

    Bill F Finally running

    Hillsboro NH
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    doesnt always
     
  9. Jun 10, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Yes.
     
  10. Jun 11, 2009
    bnorth10

    bnorth10 Wicked Willys Customs

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    Agree with the guys,, timing first, poss bad thermostat second (Ive had new ones that were bad), radiator full flush and or entire coolant flush third, possible vapor lock fourth and if still issue possible head gasket. I had a bad head gasket that caused me quite a bit of heartache especially when first new gasket didnt seal and had to do it all again!!!
     
  11. Jun 11, 2009
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    timing on a l head is set the same way as the f head or any other motor with a distributor that is non esc = eletronic spark controll. timing marks are on the flywheel, or that is where they are supposed to be, i dont know my way around the l head that well, sammy has been thru it though;) may shoot him a pm :beer:
     
  12. Jun 11, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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  13. Jun 12, 2009
    johnny quest

    johnny quest Member

    Park City, UT
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  14. Jun 12, 2009
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    :?
    say tahw ?
     
  15. Jun 12, 2009
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
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    Just happened in to read this thread.

    Are you serious ? That's pure nonsense.
     
  16. Jun 12, 2009
    johnny quest

    johnny quest Member

    Park City, UT
    Joined:
    May 23, 2006
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    yea its either backward or just plain on wrong. he suggested that i 'tune it by ear'.

    does he not know what hes talking about?? i dont know enough to know if what he said even makes sense, or if its possible. i think its safe to say that its not on there the right way. but is it 180* off?? or can it actually be on backward, (flipped front to back, back to front)
     
  17. Jun 12, 2009
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    If the flywheel was reversable on the mounting, it would still have the timing mark in the correct place.. But the starter bendix would not engauge and the clutch would not work. If you cannot find the timing mark on the flywheel it may be due to very heavy rust under grease. You may have to use a gauge in the spark plug hole to bring engine to TDC and re mark the flywheel.
     
  18. Jun 12, 2009
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    could be 180 deg out, if so just put the timing light on the tower 180 deg from #1, could be worse, mine has a f head flywheel on a l head engine, but i swaped out the pulley and tthe timing indicator;)
     
  19. Jun 15, 2009
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    If you cannot see the timing marks of the flywheel (fairly common) you can get it pretty darned close by ear once you know what to listen for. A lot of folks put a little white paint on the marks on the flywheel once they find them, it makes them easier to see with the timing light.

    To do it by ear, loosen the distributor clamp just enough to be able to turn the distributor, but not enough that it is really loose. Start the engine and let it warm up a bit. Once you have it idling without the choke, listen to the engine while you slowly rotate the distributor, the idle will speed up a little as you advance the timing. With the timing advanced, it will start to miss slightly at idle and sputter out of the tailpipe just a bit. Back the distributor off just enough to get a good, smooth idle an dthen shut the engine off. Tighten he distributor down and go for a drive. This should get you into the ballpark!

    The little L- and F-heads run pretty darned smooth for a 4-banger once everything is in tune, and make good, reliable power. You do have to keep an eye on the points an dthe valve lash, but once those are set up correctly the engine should be trouble-free for a long time.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2009
  20. Jun 15, 2009
    electricontr

    electricontr Member

    Denver Colorado
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    I saw in another thread here that if the flywheel is 180 out, you time it with #3 cylinder. That way you can see the marks.
     
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