1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

New To This Forum - Dauntless 225 Questions...

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by J.P. Thal-Larsen, Aug 12, 2018.

  1. Aug 12, 2018
    J.P. Thal-Larsen

    J.P. Thal-Larsen New Member

    Warrenton, Lake...
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2018
    Messages:
    45
    I'm new to this forum and somewhat new to Early CJ ownership. This seems to be a cordial, very well-informed group of enthusiasts and I suspect I'll learn a lot here.
    A few years ago my brother found a rust free well maintained and relatively unmolested CJ5 that had spent its whole life in Arizona. It has a Dauntless 225 w/headers, electronic ignition (PerTronix I think), a high output coil (Flamethrower I think), an electric radiator fan, oil pressure and temp gauges. Otherwise it's pretty much stock. My sons and I had a blast getting to know this sweet Jeep at Charleau Gap in Tucson. I did a YouTube video of our mild off-roading (search "Charleau CJ5").
    This little Jeep oozes character.
    After a good bit of lobbying from my sons, I decided to have it shipped to my home in Maryland (the shipping was an absolute nightmare, but that's another story).
    So here it sits and I'm trying to catch up on some things that it needs to make it an occasional, sunny day driver. I really want to preserve its straight, unmolested, rust-free, classic bones, so it likely won't see much mud or rain and definitely no salt-covered winter streets.
    I'm guessing that the Dauntless is circa 1966 or '67, but that's a guess. I'm pretty certain that it has the Pertronix (definitely some kind of electronic ignition as it's sans points). The cap is Delco and the coil has what looks to be a lighting bolt on its label. The plugs are Autolite 85. I'm not sure of the brand of the carb, but I'm guessing it's the carb that was stock for the Dauntless 225. It has headers with short runs to the mufflers and outlets under each door opening.
    The things that I've done:
    • Changed the oil (10w -30 Rotella) and filter (Wix)
    • Flushed the gas tank
    • Changed the plug wires since I didn't know the history/condition of the existing wires
    • Sanded and painted the headers, mufflers and pipes, replaced both exhaust manifold gaskets and both header collector gaskets and fasteners
    • Checked the plug gaps which were about .045. Plugs were black and sooty, except #2 which had some hard deposits on the electrode and seemed to be a bit oil fouled as opposed to sooty carbon. I re-gapped them to .035 per the shop manual, but then I read that electronic ignitions and high output coils should run plugs gapped at around .045 so I went back and gapped them at .045.
    • Back in AZ, my brother had installed a Melling oil pump and put one of the higher pressure springs in. The gauge was reading about 30 psi at idle, so I took the spring down to the 18 coil so it idles at about 15 psi now. I might step it up a bit, but not much more than 20 psi at idle, so long as I get about 10 or 11 psi increase per 1k rpm increase.
    • I just got my timing light out of storage and plan to check the timing tomorrow.
    • I haven't messed with the carb much, aside from turning the little screws on each bank (air mixture?)
    The things that I've noticed:
    • I can't seem to keep it from the occasional backfire that seems to come from the even/ps bank (#2?). Keep in mind that I haven't checked the timing as of yet
    • There's a vacuum line going to an old-style diaphragm on the ignition. Doesn't seem to be much vacuum coming from the carb however. Under the rotor there's an old-style centrifugal assembly (advance?).
    • There's noticeable hesitation and sputtering on acceleration as if the timing is too retarded, or maybe fuel..dunno, but it wants to cut out if I step on the gas even modestly. Gradual acceleration is okay.
    • The temp starts to creep up when driving. Not really at idle. I turned around and headed home when it got to 190°. It seemed to be climbing and I didn't want to risk overheating. The electric fan was running the whole time. I don't really know the history of the radiator. I know that it's not recent, so likely has deposits/sludge built up. I can deal with the radiator and get it to its max efficiency
    Questions:
    • Assuming that I have the PerTronix and Flamethrower coil should I be running a plug other than the basic Autolite 85?
    • What should the plug gap be set to?
    • What should I set the timing to?
    • Does the PerTronix use any kind of advance (vacuum or centrifugal)?
    • Any ideas why the plugs were so sooty?
    • What would explain the hard deposits and oily residue on #2 plug when the others were dry soot?
    • Should the carb jetting be modified from stock considering that I'm running headers with only about 6" of pipe before the mufflers - so very little back pressure?
    • How do I identify the carb? It appears to be stock. If I were to guess, I'd say Rochester or Carter.. are there any good threads on carb tuning for the stock Dauntless 225?
    • Aside from an gunked up radiator with poor flow, what else could be contributing to the temp climbing?
    I know this is a lot of info. but the questions have been building up ;)
    Thanks in advance,
    JP
     
  2. Aug 13, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Messages:
    5,798
    Welcome to ECJ5. The first thing I would do is to get a timing light and a vacuum gauge. Read how to use both those tools in the instruction manual and other places on the internet.

    Typically, the gap can be opened on plugs that use an HEI system, but I am not sure about the pertonix setup. The vacuum gauge will give you other abilities to look at engine health and also allow you to set your carb up right. I got mine at harbor freight and there is one pretty close to you.

    As far as overheating, my 225 runs at 180~190 with a 165 degree thermostat and electric fan. Your radiator may be from the 4 cylinder your jeep originally came with, but we can't tell unless you post some pics of your engine bay.
     
  3. Aug 13, 2018
    TIm E

    TIm E Aggressively average

    NW Arkansas
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2017
    Messages:
    683
    Welcome to the forum.

    As Chris mentioned, good to start with timing and a vacuum gauge. Pertronix just replaces the points/condenser, but still relies on the original vacuum advance, so you will want to make sure that is working. A vacuum gauge will also be useful in setting your idle mixture (two screws you mentioned on front of the carb). You can google that process, pretty simple.

    If you remove the air cleaner, the carb should say Rochester 2G on the top cover if original. Fairly straight-forward rebuild on those. American made, ethanol save kit can be had from Mike's Carburetors for around $25.

    Timing and carb tuning will go a long way to setting a good baseline, then you can move on to diagnosing any remaining issues.

    And...we like pictures!
     
  4. Aug 13, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,593
    As said above, I'd check timing and get that set before going on to other stuff. After setting initial timing (start around 5BTDC and go from there), check to see if you are getting advance on the timing from the mechanical/centrifugal assembly with increased rpm (vacuum canister plugged off) - when I got mine the advance assembly was pretty stuck and bound up from gunk and corrosion etc. Then check for vacuum advance. I run pertronix in mine (Delco distributor of course) with FT coil - I open my plug gap just a bit to 0.040 due to the slightly higher voltage FT coil but its not necessary. The pertronix itself is not like an HEI in that it would generally not need much change to the plugs or wires - it just allows for a much less maintenance than traditional points.

    Also, assuming this is oem Rochester 2g carb, the screws you discussed are for idle mixture only. Good to adjust properly, but you may still need to change the main metering jets inside the carb for your altitude or mixture needs. There is also the accelerator pump and power valve that could be causing some issues if you are stalling when applying throttle. Of course, I would check this after ensuring the timing is generally good. As said above, rebuild kit from Mikes Carb is a good way to go including his how to videos if you need some help.

    Finally, an FSM is very helpful as well....PSA - Which Manual Should I Buy?

    PS - we like pictures...
     
  5. Aug 13, 2018
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

    exploring the...
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2009
    Messages:
    3,869
    I would put the fluid film to the bottom side as well as the backs of the fenders and inside the window frame. Those southern cars get accelerated rust once exposed to northern humidity fluctuations.
     
  6. Aug 13, 2018
    J.P. Thal-Larsen

    J.P. Thal-Larsen New Member

    Warrenton, Lake...
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2018
    Messages:
    45
    Wow. Quite a welcome! Thanks to all of you who have taken the time to reply - and reply quickly with valuable info. Strong community support like EarlyCJ5 clearly has, is what endears newbies to a particular vehicle.
    I'll take all of your suggestions and will be picking up a vacuum gauge a.s.a.p.
    Pic. of my radiator coming soon...
    ..IIRC, is there is a difference between the inlet hose side on the 4cyl and the 6cyl?
     
  7. Aug 13, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Messages:
    5,798
    As Twin 2 posted yesterday, bottom hose is passenger side. My personal rig has an aftermarket rad, so I am no help.
     
  8. Aug 13, 2018
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
    Joined:
    May 25, 2006
    Messages:
    2,871
    Welcome. The "2g stumble" is pretty much standard on all Jeeps that still run the original carb. Some claim to have cured it but I have never personally seen one that doesn't stumble.
     
  9. Aug 13, 2018
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

    exploring the...
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2009
    Messages:
    3,869
    i prefer delco plugs
     
  10. Aug 16, 2018
    J.P. Thal-Larsen

    J.P. Thal-Larsen New Member

    Warrenton, Lake...
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2018
    Messages:
    45
    So step 1.
    I think I have the hesitation/stumbling issue solved:

    (O'Reilly's 1 1/2 year old part BTW. Ethanol and sitting for months didn't help, I'm sure)
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  11. Aug 17, 2018
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Detroit Area 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I live South of...
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2014
    Messages:
    1,725
    Welcome from Michigan, I can't help as my Jeep is a 134 F head, but the guys here know everything about the V 6, Good luck
     
  12. Aug 17, 2018
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2007
    Messages:
    5,916
    Welcome from Ga.
     
  13. Aug 17, 2018
    heavychevy

    heavychevy Sponsor

    Danielsville georgia
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2008
    Messages:
    181
    Welcome to the forum, from northeast georgia
     
New Posts