Making My CJ5 Into A CJ6/II

68..............that is a lifted spring 2.75 to 3 inch Holbrook claims.............should fit a 33 inch tire with no issues especially with the D-30 under there which is a few inches wider than the D-27 ......and the sway bar can remain the same it would just be the link that gets longer.........I like the JKS links with the stainless hardware easy on and off. Adjustable for a 2.5 to 6 inch lifts. And to make it easier the brackets for the bottom end of the link as well as the shocks will be welded directly to the axle tube , front for the link and rear for the shock.

 

BACK TO THE BUILD:
SWAY BAR AND GEAR BOX BRACE TACKED IN PLACE. THAT IS A PIECE OF 1.250 X 083 CHROME MOLY TUBE WITH RIGHT AND LEFT HAND THREADED BUNKS AT EACH END FOR ADJUSTMENT.

STEERING BOX BRACE. NOTE: THE SECTOR SHAFT BEARING LOCATION IS ABOUT 1.750" UP FROM THE END OF THE HOUSING. THIS IS WHERE ALL THE STRENGTH IN THE HOUSING IS. LOCATING ANY FORM OF STEERING BRACE NEAR THE BASE OF THE HOUSING ONLY CAPTURES THE HOLLOW AREA WHERE THE SEAL LOCATES......I HAVE SEEN MANY GEAR BOXES BROKEN AT THAT POINT BECAUSE OF THIS. ONCE BROKEN THE SEAL WILL NO LONGER LOCATE AND THE HOUSING IS TOAST.

MADE 6 OF THESE FOR SOME BUDDIES OF MINE THAT OFF ROAD RACE THAT WERE BREAKING GEAR BOXES. YOU CAN NOW SEE INSIDE THE HOUSING JUST HOW FAR AWAY FROM THE BASE WHERE THE SEAL LOCATES. THE BEARING IS STILL UP ANOTHER INCH FROM THERE WHERE ALL THE STRENGTH IS.


THOSE PIECES WERE MADE FROM SOLID BAR STOCK. THE HOUSING HAS ABOUT A 1-1/2 DEGREE TAPER IN IT. IT'S FIXED TO THE HOUSING BY DRILLING A 1/4" HOLE IN THAT CAST GUSSET AND USING A 12 POINT BOLT TO SQUEEZE IT WHILE ALSO USING THE TAPER TO LOCATE & HOLD IT. WORKS LIKE A CHARM MY FRIENDS TELL ME.

BOX BRACE

ATTACHMENT AT STEERING BOX

OTHER END

BRACE AT GEAR BOX

SWAY BAR LOOKING ACROSS

PASSENGER SIDE SWAY BAR

 

hellokitty

 

I'm running out into the garage right now to re-position my steering box brace. Thanks for the excellent tip.

 

SOME OF THE COMPONENTS I BUILT TO BE USED IN THE POWER STEERING BUILD.


THIS IS A 4 BOLT HD SAGINAW SERIES 800 STEERING GEAR.......COMMONLY USED IN THE LATE 70'S AND THROUGHOUT THE 80'S AND BEYOND ON MOST OF THE AMC/JEEP VEHICLES. ON THIS BOX IF YOU LOOK CLOSELY IT HAS AN ADDITIONAL POWER PORT FITTING ADDED IN CASE YOU LATER WANTED TO ADD A HYDRAULIC ASSIST RAM.....THIS BOX ALSO HAS BEEN SETUP WITH A VARIABLE STEERING RATIO.


DIFFERENT SHORT SHAFTS TO CONNECT TO STEERING GEAR



STEERING SPUD STICKING OUT IN FRONT OF CROSS MEMBER. I LIKE TO BUILD AN ALUMINUM HOUSING THERE AND INSTALL A SPHERICAL BEARING TO LOCATE THE SPUD END. IF YOU OFFER NO SUPPORT THERE FRONT INPUT SHAFT SEALS IN THE STEERING GEAR WILL SUFFER AND CAN THEN LEAK. A U-JOINT CAN THEN BE ADDED RIGHT THERE AND THEN ATTACHED TO A DOUBLE D TELESCOPING STEERING SHAFT TO THE NEXT U-JOINT AT THE FIREWALL.


DOUBLE D COLLAPSIBLE SHAFT COMING FROM GEAR BOX


AND FROM THE COLUMN


THIS SETUP IS FOR A BUICK V6 WITH POWER STEERING , USING THE LOW MOUNTED FACTORY POWER STEERING PUMP AND CONVENTIONAL STOCK RUBBER MOUNTED SIDE ENGINE MOUNTS WITH FENDER EXIT STYLE HEADERS. NO CLEARANCE ISSUES WITH THE RADIATOR , ENGINE MOUNTS , HEADERS OR POWER STEERING PUMP.......THE POWER STEERING LINES ARE ALL INSIDE THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND EXIT GEAR NEXT TO THE GRILL & RADIATOR........ALSO IF YOU NOTICE THE ANGLE OF THE STEERING SHAFT COMING FORWARD GOING TO THE FIREWALL IS AT JUST A SLIGHT UPWARD ANGLE WHICH IS THE SAME ANGLE THE STEERING GEAR WAS MOUNTED AT .........I COULD HAVE GOTTEN AWAY EASILY WITH JUST ONE U-JOINT AT THE FIREWALL......THAT'S WHY IT IS SO IMPORTANT TO PLAN AHEAD WHILE MOUNTING THE STEERING GEAR ........AIMING THE BOX CORRECTLY WHILE GETTING THE PROPER ANGLES & ATTITUDE COMING FORWARD , MAKES FOR A NICER INSTALL.

 

Hum, why there is only one port for ram assist? normaly there is two aux port for ram assist. (did mine 6 month ago).

 

Johney,

You are correct...................because of another mounting consideration the other port was put in the bottom , which is now plugged off....if I ever need the assist I'll have to send the box back and move that port up next to the other for better line access.

 

Hum dunno if you'll have the clearance needed for it but you can use a 90 degree fiting just like i juste i did.

 

Johney, ...........the o-ringed flat plug barely fit under there........if I ever put big tires on it and it needs to go back , no big deal........Thanks!

 

Back to the build............And wrapping up the Steering.

GETTING GUSSETS IN PLACE FOR STEERING GEAR MOUNT

DO TO ALL THE STRESS ON THESE FRONT FRAME HORNS FROM NOT ONLY THE STEERING GEAR , THE WINCH AND PULL & TOW HOOKS , I LIKE TO PLATE THESE ON EACH SIDE WITH A PIECE OF .125 " FLAT STOCK. I TIE THE REAR OF THAT PLATE INTO THE WELDED LOCATING TABS THAT EXTEND OUTWARD FROM THE FACTORY CROSS MEMBER THROUGH THE FRAME RAIL .....BY DOING SO IT TRANSFERS THE STRESS FURTHER BACK INTO THE FRAME RAIL WHILE ALSO INTO THAT FRONT CROSS MEMBER.

A LITTLE BETTER PICTURE WHERE THOSE FRAME TABS ARE LOCATED


MORE WELDING


WELDING UP LANDING FOR PASSENGERS SIDE SWAY BAR MOUNT AND ATTACHMENT POINT FOR STEERING GEAR BRACE


PLATED PASSENGER SIDE



CHECKING BUMPER TRIM FIT

 

Looks good... I did the same on my jeep. On the outside of the frame I went past the motor mounts. The inside is boxed all the way... Keep up the good work!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2

 

Ok... I need more time to drool over these changes.


Fired my phaser at my abacus and it now hoses my grammar and spelling

69 Dauntless CJ5 - The Heep
Resto-Mod
(heep and jeep are four letter words)
http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?99079-69-Dauntless-Project-the-Heep

 

Back to the build:
Need to get some swing pedals installed along with a Power Brake Vacuum booster.......There are various swing pedal sets that can be used........any will work as long as you pay close attention to the Pedal Ratio's and can find a set that mounts easily in the space you have available. A decision on whether or not a Hydraulic clutch will be used versus mechanical linkage should also be made.......notwithstanding paying close attention to the hydraulic fluid volume demands for both the Brake and Clutch systems.......................the bore size of the Brake Master Cylinder is important to be able to supply enough pressure and volume to the brake system which depends on whether or not your using Drums or Disc's or both......the volume is still important even when the system will be boosted via a vacuum booster.
Likewise the correct Master cylinder bore size for the clutch system has to be able to support the slave cylinder in respect to travel and volume needed at the Bell Housing in order for it to work properly............
I like to use the standard Jeep swing pedals from the late 70's through the late 80's.......the later versions will have the ability to support the hydraulic clutch and you may even be lucky enough to find a set that has the bracket already in place. It should also be known that during that period AMC used two different Pedal Ratios at the Brake Pedal...........one for non Power with the push rod hole at about a 6:1 ratio and the other for a power system at about 4.7:1.......some brake pedals I have found were drilled for both ratios while others just had one hole. This set of Pedals is from a mid 80's CJ.
Just like a brake pedal, the clutch pedal acts as a lever to increase the force applied by the driver to the master cylinder. That force tells the master cylinder to send fluid to the release bearing or clutch slave.Traditional Clutch pedal ratios are about 6-7:1............
Now here is where it can all get real tricky.........lets say you have found a set of Pedals that were out of non-power setup (Like These).........and your going Power.........two different ratios Right?........what that means at the pedal set is the center hole for the Master will be offset up or down by as much as 1" between the sets..........meaning if you have a non power set you must move the center hole down for the Master to accommodate the correct ratio for the power boosted brake system. And if you do not change it you will have way too much mechanical ratio advantage at the pedal and have a real touchy brake system when applied that may easily lock up your brakes.......Point is ratios are important.

LAYING OUT MY SYSTEM.......ON MY 1965 CJ THE ONLY PLACE FOR THE SWING PEDALS , BOOSTER AND CLUTCH SYSTEM IS TO USE THE AREA WHERE THE FACTORY HEATER WOULD HAVE BEEN.
ONCE I ROUGHLY LAID OUT WHERE IT NEEDED TO GO I STARTED TO DEVELOP A PATTERN OUT OF PATTERN BOARD. YOU'LL NOTICE ALL THE LINES DRAWN ON THE FIREWALL TO THE RIGHT AS REFERENCE.

THE PLATE IS .125 SHEET METAL AND WILL GET AFFIXED PROBABLY BY HUCK RIVETS TO THE FIREWALL TO GIVE IT AN OLDER LOOK.......CURRENTLY THE USE OF CLEKO'S HOLDS THE PLATE DURING THIS PROCESS.
ALSO NOTICE THAT THE BRAKE CYLINDER AND THE CLUTCH CYLINDER ARE MOUNTED AT TWO DIFFERENT CENTER LINE HEIGHTS........THIS IS DONE SO TO CORRECT THE RATIO'S AT THE PEDALS.

IN THIS PHOTO YOU WILL NOTICE THAT I MOVED THE 8 INCH DUAL BOOSTER UP AS HIGH AS I COULD WHILE STILL CLEARING THE HOOD , THIS IS DONE TO HELP IN KEEPING NEEDED PEDAL RATIOS INSIDE SINCE WITH THE SLOPED FLOOR IN THE EARLY CJ'S. THE NORMAL 16.5 INCH LONG PEDALS WITH THESE SETS WOULD EVENTUALLY HAVE TO BE SHORTENED ANYWAY TO ALLOW SUFFICIENT FLOOR TRAVEL.

INSIDE IT'S KIND OF A MESS NOW , BUT ONCE DONE ANOTHER PIECE OF SHEET METAL TRIM WILL GO BETWEEN THE PEDAL SET AND FIREWALL AND WILL COVER UP ALL THE HOLES.

ANOTHER VIEW

IF YOU WERE WONDERING HOW I WAS GOING TO GET AWAY WITH THAT SMALL PLATE ON THE OUTSIDE WITHOUT GOING MUCH HEAVIER AND LARGER IN SIZE WHILE GOING ALL THE WAY TO THE EDGES OF THE FIREWALL WELL HERE IS THE TRICK. ADD A BRACE INSIDE TYING THE PEDAL SET INTO THE COWL AREA WHICH CANCELS ALL THE ROTATIONAL FORCE APPLIED BY YOUR FOOT ON THE PEDAL SET.

ANOTHER VIEW.......ALSO IF YOU LOOK AT THE CENTER OF THE PEDAL SET I JUST REPLACED THAT CENTER PLATE IN ORDER TO ADJUST THE CENTER HOLE FOR THE MASTER CYLINDER.......AS THE SET I USED WAS A MANUAL SET OF PEDALS. IT SHOULD ALSO BE NOTED THAT THE PUSH ROD PUSH POINT FROM THE PEDAL HAS TO BE ON THE SAME PLANE AS THE MASTER CYLINDER BORE. A LITTLE VARIANCE IS OK BECAUSE AS THE PEDAL SWINGS THE ROD DOES TRAVEL IN A SLIGHT ARCH........JUST NOT TOO MUCH OR IT COULD BIND GOING INTO THE CYLINDER BORE.

IN THIS SHOT YOU'LL NOTICE THAT THE PEDAL BRACKET HAS BEEN BOBBED OFF AND A VERTICAL BRACE HAS BEEN WELDED IN PLACE.........THE TWO HOLES IN THAT BRACE IF YOU LOOK CLOSELY HAVE ALSO BEEN SLOTTED TO ALLOW AND EASIER FIT ONCE INSTALLED.

 

Looks good, Terry. Good info on the pedal ratios too. I'm going to be changing over to power brakes when I put the auto tranny in next year.

 

Looks great Terry! Quality work even on the small things

 

Sorry been busy on another Project for a few weeks.

Wanted to get back to these Pedals to show you what I'm doing with these...........Not that there finished by any stretch , I'm just working them over so that they both have the correct ratio's for both Clutch & Brake and are back near the same position that the floor pedals originally came out of the floor at.
I've got the clutch Pedal and Hydraulic Master side pretty well figured out.......If you remember I mentioned that these stock 80's CJ & later YJ pedal sets were a little long for an early CJ Body w/ angled floors. Even if you mount these as high as I do they still need to be shortened..........These OEM pedals from the fulcrum point are about 16.5" to the foot push pad......using them in that length will just crash the floor early , long before they get enough travel to do the work at either Hydraulic Master Cylinders. The correct length should be about 2 inches shorter or about 14.5" total. Cutting these down will still give you the correct pedal ratio for both Clutch Master and Brake Master.
Rather than just cutting the pedal and shortening it , I decided to offset it and get it back in the original position where the floor mounted pedal used to come through...........I first had to straighten the pedal arm in the press and then re-bend and offset it over to get it back in alignment and at the correct height from the floor......In the second picture this is what the clutch pedal looked like when aligned with the old clutch pedal hole.





THE BRAKE PEDAL IS ANOTHER CHALLENGE ALL IN ITSELF. GETTING IT TO THE RIGHT OF THE COLUMN AND STILL GETTING IT BACK TO THE MASTER CYLINDER CENTER LINE TO ACTUATE THE BRAKE BOOSTER. IF YOU NOTICE IT ALSO is INLINE WITH THE OLD FLOOR MOUNTED PEDAL HOLE.

THIS IS WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE OUTSIDE "UNFINISHED" OF COURSE.......IN ORDER TO HANG THE PEDAL OFF THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE OEM BRACKET I HAD TO REMOVE THE NUT ON THE RIGHT THAT WOULD NORMALLY HOLD THE FULCRUM SHAFT IN PLACE AND THEN THREAD ANOTHER SHAFT THAT WOULD ACT AS AN EXTENSION AND ALSO AS A NUT TO HOLD BOTH PIECES TOGETHER......THE LONG SHAFT WOULD EVENTUALLY BE CUT SHORTER AND A BRACKET ADDED AT THE END ATTACHED TO THE FIREWALL FOR ADDED SUPPORT. THE BRIDGE BETWEEN THE TWO HALF'S WOULD BE FINISHED TO ACCEPT THE MASTER CYLINDER PUSH ROD.....ONCE IN PLACE IT WOULD HARDLY BE NOTICEABLE. NOW BOTH PEDALS ARE BACK IN THERE ORIGINAL LOCATIONS

HERE IS MY NEW TILT COLUMN........I ASKED THE FOLKS AT FLAMING RIVER IF THEY WOULD BUILD ME A "NO FRILLS" PLAIN BLACK TILT COLUMN WITH A 1.750" TUBE TO FIT THE OLD STOCK DASH CUTOUT, WITH TURN SIGNALS , NO KEY SWITCH & STANDARD GM PLUG ,WIRING AND HORN. AND THIS IS THE RESULT...........I THINK IT LOOKS PRETTY GOOD , ABOUT AS CLOSE TO AN OLD STANDARD COLUMN AS ONE COULD ASK FOR , WITH TILT AND CANCELING TURN SIGNALS.

 

Pedals are great, Looks really nice. I see three cranks in one picture. Looks like you name them - "nick" on one. Are the others "Ann" and "Tom" (NAT or TAN or ANT as a group?)

Wow on the steering shaft / wheel included? Can you share on a ball park how much?

 

Hi Dane, as far as those cranks go, two of the three share the common fate for most Buick V6 cranks.......spun bearings and "Junk". All those were even fired V6's and only "Nick" had any life left in it at .010/.010! The other two hit the scrap bin a while back.
The column was done early last year 28" long $400 bucks , I believe they have now added it to there catalog ............The wheel is a 14.5" Grant that came from a different source.

 

lots of candy in your shop...

figured on the cranks. subtle attempt and duooomass humor.

will look at the column and wheel for 'after' I'm back on the road.

 

Nice work sir! Way advanced for me.
I'd like to get into welding some day. It's amazing what can be done with a welder.